There is a 4 door, 2wd (early 80's)truck for sale locally. I have a 93 dully, x-cab, 4wd. I want a 4 door. Is it easier to replace the cab on my chassis, or should I find another 4x4 4 door and replace the motor w/a cummins from a donor. I would consider my 93 in better than average condition.

 

The kickup on your frame is too far forward. If you are willing/able to stretch the frame a cab swap is possible, but it's easier to drop a Cummins drivetrain in a 4X4 crewcab.

 

If the 2x4 is a shortbed, it will be the same wheelbase as your clubcab. Some guys have cut the rear floor and fabbed stuf to make the 4 cab fit the ctd frame.

On the other hand, if you go the other direction, the cummins power-train will virually bolt-in to the 4-door chassis. You may even swap in the front axle to make it 4x4.

 

I think I am barking up the wrong tree.

My 93 is in good shape and what I am considering would basically be tearing up a good truck. I think I will wait for a 4 door and repower it with a parts truck and leave mine alone. That seems to be the easiest way to go.

Thanks for the input.

sTw

 

On a similar note, my Cummins is a 4x4 long bed standard cab. I have a '76 W150 Club Cab that I'm parting. How much would be involved in putting the club cab onto my frame and keeping the long bed? I know I'd need to stretch the frame, but where on the frame would be the best place to add length? Under the cab or under the bed. Could I use sections of the '76 frame, along with reinforcement plates along the side of the frame? I'd keep the dash, doors, fenders and hood from the '90. Any problem attaching these to a '76 cab?

 

I think you'd be better off putting the Cummins driveline and '90 front clip and bed on the '76 chassis. That's all bolt-on stuff, the only "fab" that will be required is cutting some holes in the firewall.

A frame stretch would need to be done under the cab if you wanted to do it that way.

 

The '76 is a short bed and the bed is in lousy shape (rusted wheel wells). I want to keep the long bed. Size matters!

 

Ah. Well, the '90 frame should be the same depth as the '76 frame so you could splice in sections from under the cab.

 

Has anybody come across a good article on the 'net about stitching in a frame piece?

I'm thinking the best way to make the cuts would be on an angle to increase the shear strength of the welds, then reinforce it with 3/8" or 1/4" plates on the top and outside and box the inside from about 1 - 2 feet in front to 1 - 2 feet behind the joints or maybe even weld an I beam inside the frame, if I can find one that fits.

At the same time, I'll do a shackle flip and a u-bolt flip for a little more height and clearance.

 

The frame extensions I've seen on big trucks are "Z'ed." That is, the frame is cut vertically about halfway down, then the cut goes horizontal for 6 - 8", then continues down. This gives more welding area and puts more of a compression load on the joint than a straight shear load.

 

Also, I would consider bolting the fishplate reinforcements on so as to not further weaken the frame with welding heat.

 

Just cut the frame straight up and down, weld it together and then weld diamond shaped fishplates on. The taper of the plates is needed to taper the stress.