robox

Last week my darn truck left me stranded with a cracked transmission cooler line spewing ATF all over the place.

(For the record, it was the one that comes out of the forward-left side of the trans, promptly turns downward 90 degrees, where it tees off to a sensor of some kind, and then turns another 90 degrees towards the right side of the truck where it joins another line with a union fitting.)

(Also for the record, I was 120 miles into a 400 mile trip. I limped it 24 miles back in the homeward direction, stopping 3 times to put in more ATF, and then got a 96 mile tow back home (thank god for AAA Plus). Then I got on my BMW K-bike and drove the 400 miles.)

I need to replace the broken line, and I'd like to just replace all of them while I'm at it. I called NAPA and they said that the individual lines are not specified in their database or in any parts catalog, and I would just have to bring the lines down to the store and hope they had matches in their inventory.

Any other ideas where to go? Would the dealership have these lines? How about a transmission shop?

Also I'm going to replace the transmission filter and adjust the bands while I'm under there. I have a Haines manual which is pretty specific on how to do these things, but if anyone has done them and has any tips for me, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks,
CR

robox

No one knows anything about where to get these lines, huh?

CR

loch

im not sure you can get them, only possible place i know be dealer. there just steel lines buy some and ten dollar bender and make your own.

Tuckerdee

I lost this very same line last spring. It cracked where the fitting goes into the heater exchanger on the side of the engine. I lost about 7 quarts in 5 miles! Thank goodness for the the Double Deep pan. And AAA also! So, yes, the dealer has this item. It's about $130 if I remember correctly and it comes with a new sensor. (It's a temp sensor that tells PCM it's OK to engage the O/D I think.) This is NOT a high pressure line. The fluid runs from the transmission through it to the oil/water heat exchanger on the side of the block. From there, the fluid runs to an air/oil heat exchanger up front. Then from there back to the transmission and into the pan. You could easily make up your own line and save $$ the by retaining your sensor (which is still good). Where did yours crack? I believe the fitting at the heat exchanger is just a plain old female flared end, although rather large. The fitting at the transmission is a also flared but with male threads on the connector. If you have a power transmission shop nearby (a shop that sells stuff like belts, conveyors, hydraulic hoses, pumps, and the like) they can make up something for you that will be cheaper no doubt. Hope this helps, and let us know how it goes.

Oh...and adjusting the bands. Not really hard at all. The procedure in the Haynes worked great for me. The only trick is that you do need an inch/pounds torque wrench. I got mine at Harbor freight for about $20 or so. The 1st/2nd Band is inside the pan towards the rear. The 3rd/OD band is on the left outside of the transmission towards the front. Adjusting my bands resulted in MUCH firmer shifts, better mileage, and less heat in my transmission. I think that's a win/win/win scenario!

blueberry

I replaced mine with Aeroquip braided metal hose and Aeroquip fittings. The positioning of the coolant-ATF heat exchanger is a terrible, terrible design in terms of servicing. Those union fittings can get stuck together and end up twisting the metal line, etc, if not real careful. My tow bill was only $50 and I got stuck at the RV diesel area of Flying J's with a HUGE puddle of ATF under the truck. Yuk, yuk. I sold the truck and replaced it with a 5 speed.

Brian

Mcmopar

On a 13-16 year old truck?? Not bad in my opinion. I did the lines of one of my 1998's, bought everything from Chrysler.

robox

Thanks for all the info, Truckerdee.

I replaced the line with a stainless one that I made up today. I completely left the sensor out of the equation, but now I'm worried about that... What about just jumpering the wires that WERE going to the sensor so that it's always "ON"?

I haven't driven it yet, just let it idle for a while to be sure there were no leaks. So, I'm not sure if it shifts any differently. I guess I better go drive it.

Although I had the pan off, I took the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" approach to the bands adjustment question.

Will post results of test drive.

CR

robox

Positive confirmation: The sensor in the trans cooler line which exits near the high band adjust nut and goes to the heat exchanger DOES in fact allow / inhibit the overdrive.

First leg of test drive without sensor yielded no overdrive. Pulled over and jammed a little piece of wire into the sensor plug, tricking it into thinking the sensor is there, and then I did have overdrive.

Will try to install sensor in T fitting tomorrow.

CR