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Trans cooler/ trans lines questions

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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 09:43 AM
  #1  
EClancy's Avatar
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From: over yonder back there
Trans cooler/ trans lines questions

My truck has a rebuilt 518 auto in it. Rebuild has less than 2k on it, was rebuilt by someone who deals with truck transmissions, so he made sure to use the heavy duty parts he could find, as well as drill out ports and stuff for max fluid flow.

I dont tow anything super heavy. Usually a 6x12 single axle landscape trailer, occaisonally a car or truck on a car trailer. I want to add an cooler under the bed, something w/ an electric fan on it. Recommendations??

I need to replace the transmission lines. Mine leak, and one has a hydaulic hose used as a "patch" and held on with 6 hose clamps, but it works ok. I know they are 1/2" tube. Where does one get 1/2" steel tube to make new lines? I have flaring tools, benders, so that is not an issue. I know the fittings on the trans are pipe thread, but i dont know about whats on the the front mounted factory cooler. If you use an aux cooler, do you still need the factory one? Can hydraulic hoses be used in place of the factory steel lines? I'd also like to add a "T" somewhere for use in a temp guage.

So basically, again my questions:
What to use as line material: steel tube, copper tube, hydraulic lines?
Fittings: What type at transmission, at cooler?
Aux cooler: brand recommendations, size?

Thanks in advance
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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 11:38 AM
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From: oakdale, california
hey Eclancy i just bought a cooler from the autozone, i got the bigest one (GVW 26,000lbs) its 15"x10" and uses 3/4" line, i was going to use it in plave of my dinky little factory one and i also removed the water to trans cooler. i don't have the truck running yet but i talked to my tranny guy and he said it would be perfect. also you can get 1/2" steel line from autozone or kragen, at least i can, so figure where you are they'd carry it too. they usually come in 4' sticks. hope this helps and good luck.

jason
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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 02:00 PM
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From: 14mi North of North Pole
If you live somewhere that it gets really cold, be sure to install a bypass valve to skip the filter when it gets cold out. The coolers can over cool the fluid in the winters here and cause a lack of lube which burns up trannys quick. My .02
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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 03:05 PM
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From: texas
Any steel supply could get you tubing, its 1/2 od, but hyd hose if routed properly is more than adequat. One last thing, dont thro that heat exchanger away, severl have tried it without them and some reported running hotter.
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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 05:30 PM
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From: over yonder back there
Appreciate the advice guys...thanks

I never even thought to check the auto parts stores for tubing. I know my napa does nto carry 1/2" tube in the store, but never thought to ask

I'll definitly check into that autozone cooler


OFCMARC: how cold is too cold for that bypass valve. I usually dont drive the truck when its overly cold, say below 10 degrees
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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by EClancy
My truck has a rebuilt 518 auto in it. Rebuild has less than 2k on it, was rebuilt by someone who deals with truck transmissions, so he made sure to use the heavy duty parts he could find, as well as drill out ports and stuff for max fluid flow.

I dont tow anything super heavy. Usually a 6x12 single axle landscape trailer, occaisonally a car or truck on a car trailer. I want to add an cooler under the bed, something w/ an electric fan on it. Recommendations??

I need to replace the transmission lines. Mine leak, and one has a hydaulic hose used as a "patch" and held on with 6 hose clamps, but it works ok. I know they are 1/2" tube. Where does one get 1/2" steel tube to make new lines? I have flaring tools, benders, so that is not an issue. I know the fittings on the trans are pipe thread, but i dont know about whats on the the front mounted factory cooler. If you use an aux cooler, do you still need the factory one? Can hydraulic hoses be used in place of the factory steel lines? I'd also like to add a "T" somewhere for use in a temp guage.

So basically, again my questions:
What to use as line material: steel tube, copper tube, hydraulic lines?
Fittings: What type at transmission, at cooler?
Aux cooler: brand recommendations, size?

Thanks in advance
Use half-inch steel thin-wall tubing for any long runs. Your local hydraulic supplier to heavy-duty industries will have it. I use -8 AN fittings wherever possible to minimize leaks. I minimize the number of restrictions (like hose barb fittings) that reduce flow.

Look in my gallery under "Auto Trans Cooling 1" and "Auto Trans Cooling 2" for where I've been in transmission cooling. I might have overdone it, but....

You can put a temp sensor into the trans outflow pipe boss fitting to replace the temp switch that it there now. Tie up the current switch out of the way or you'll lose overdrive. Half-inch NPT. Stock switch disables overdrive when trans fluid output is over 280* or some ridiculous number.

Regards, DBF
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 05:38 AM
  #7  
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From: Central KY
Originally Posted by ofcmarc
If you live somewhere that it gets really cold, be sure to install a bypass valve to skip the filter when it gets cold out. The coolers can over cool the fluid in the winters here and cause a lack of lube which burns up trannys quick. My .02
My brother bought a '93 that came with some extra parts. One thing thrown in the cab still in the box was a tranny cooler. Called a Tru-cool Max by Long which is a subsidary of DANA. It is heavy duty stacked plates with a built in bypass so it only cools when the fluid gets warm.

I traded him for it but the fittings are 3/8" so now I'll have to sell it and buy a bigger one with the 1/2 NPT .

Anyway, it looks like its very well built and will stand up to some abuse. All different sizes and capacities. Probably could even hook up a junk yard rad fan to pull the air through, thats what I'm hoping anyway: http://www.dana.com/Automotive_Syste...xplatetoc.aspx
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 12:46 PM
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From: texas
Dont sell it, the lines are 3/8 inside, it will work great unless you just feel need for a bigger one. I have a factory aux cooler from dodge, it has 3/8 id lines as well.
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 02:37 PM
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From: over yonder back there
Originally Posted by DBF
Use half-inch steel thin-wall tubing for any long runs. Your local hydraulic supplier to heavy-duty industries will have it. I use -8 AN fittings wherever possible to minimize leaks. I minimize the number of restrictions (like hose barb fittings) that reduce flow.

Look in my gallery under "Auto Trans Cooling 1" and "Auto Trans Cooling 2" for where I've been in transmission cooling. I might have overdone it, but....

You can put a temp sensor into the trans outflow pipe boss fitting to replace the temp switch that it there now. Tie up the current switch out of the way or you'll lose overdrive. Half-inch NPT. Stock switch disables overdrive when trans fluid output is over 280* or some ridiculous number.

Regards, DBF

Great info, but i cant find anywhere in your gallery auto trans cooling, b/c it sounds like good stuff that i'd like to see
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 03:34 PM
  #10  
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From: Tucson AZ
A new or rebuilt trans. must have the cooling system replaced or at least throughly flushed. A good Trans can be ruined by a cruddy cooler. The origional is not worth the trouble get a new one as big as you can get and replace imediately if not sooner.
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 05:01 PM
  #11  
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From: Central KY
Originally Posted by loch
Dont sell it, the lines are 3/8 inside, it will work great unless you just feel need for a bigger one. I have a factory aux cooler from dodge, it has 3/8 id lines as well.
Unfortunately they're 3/8 OD which makes them about 1/4 ID. Bummer cause its a real nice one. Guess I can ebay it and get the biggest they offer.
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 09:57 AM
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From: Florida Panhandle
Originally Posted by EClancy
Great info, but i cant find anywhere in your gallery auto trans cooling, b/c it sounds like good stuff that i'd like to see
I haven't posted the pix here yet, but they're in my gallery on the other site. Look in this thread & click on my gallery there.

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...00#post1674700

Regards, DBF
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 11:11 AM
  #13  
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From: over yonder back there
Originally Posted by DBF
I haven't posted the pix here yet, but they're in my gallery on the other site. Look in this thread & click on my gallery there.



Good stuff man, really appreciate it
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 04:07 AM
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From: Central KY
Originally Posted by DBF
I haven't posted the pix here yet, but they're in my gallery on the other site. Look in this thread & click on my gallery there.

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...00#post1674700

Regards, DBF
That helps alot, thanks. Always wondered where and how exactly the Dodge cooler was added under the bed.

My dial up is a little slow and haven't ad time to view all the pics yet. Are all your lines 1/2" ID? WHere and how are you measuring your maximum tranny temps?

Again, thanks for the efforts. It helps to actually see what we're talking about.
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 09:27 AM
  #15  
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From: Florida Panhandle
Tubing is measured OD, so the 1/2" thin-wall steel tubing is around 0.42" ID. Close enough for me, and for Dodge - that's what they used. Hose is 1/2" ID.

I have temp sensors at the trans outlet, after the second cooler, and in the pan. I use two gages, one always shows trans outlet, the other is switched between the other two sensors.

I have temp switches after each cooler that turn on the fan for that cooler if output goes above 180*. I have switches to turn each of them on manually, and LED indicators to show when the fan(s) is running.

Regards, DBF
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