My transmission pressure gauge will be here Friday sometime. Amazon had a few. I didn't pick the cheapest so I could get it here quicker with their Prime shipping plan. Here's what I got: SG Tool Aid 34550 Automatic Transmission And Engine Oil Pressure Tester With Two Gauges.

The whole reason for this is to measure the line pressure before the pan comes off. I'll know how much to tweak it should the line pressure be low due to having 163k miles. I'd rather measure it than guess. Might measure pressure on some other ports as well. Trans works fine. Just needs a service. Seriously thinking of a medium level shift kit too. Who's good these days?

It's looking like there is no drain plug on the torque converter according to the threads I've read. They use to always have drain plugs. I also have a B & M drain plug kit for the pan that I'll add for future servicing. I plan on using synthetic fluid.

I wonder if the valve body was dropped out, that the torque converter could be siphoned empty with a small diameter hose? 1 quart of dirty fluid mixed with 9 quarts of clean fluid makes for 10 quarts of dirty fluid. Or maybe go the the junkyard, drill a hole in a TC and see if the metal is thick enough to hold some threads for a plug. Just thinking out loud.

 

Wow,

Either you're an early riser.... or went to bed really late

I just did what you're talking about, except I didn't tweak the pressure or test either. For me, it wasn't necessary to stress an older trans rebuild.

When I dropped the pan, the fluid was sparkling clean. Although I adjusted the bands to spec, and filled her up with new fluid, I also added a Derale Deep pan and filter extender (new filter and gasket from dodge.

The new pan comes with a drain (magnetic) and Temp sensor port already in it. Since it has "cooling tubes" through the pan, and adds several quarts of fluid to the trans, I felt comfortable just filling her back up. From what I understand, these converters drain back into the trans when they sit for a few days or so anyway. The most that will be left in the converter is 1/2 the converter. Since my fluid was super clean, and there was no metal in the pan, I wasn't concerned.

Amazon has the deep pan (cooling tube type) and the extender. I just have to add a temp sensor to the mix, and I'm good to go.

I also bought a 5 gallon jug of trans fluid to replace the dumped fluid. Don't know how much I actually put in (filled to line on dipstick), But it was worth not having all those empty containers of fluid to trash. I guess it was over 12 to 15 quarts, so I have enough fluid left over to do a quickie dump come this spring.


BTW, you'll find some differences of opinion on using synthetic trans fluid, but for me, I wouldn't use it unless I was doing a complete rebuild where there wasn't a single drop of old fluid left, and all the seals were new throughout. syn fluid tends to bypass old seals

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t-t295931.html

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...s-t296000.html

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n-t293575.html


Post some pix on how it goes


T.

 

I wouldn't play with the line pressure untill after you put in the shift kit.

 

I'm in the same boat looking for a shift kit. Not a daily driver mostly weekends and when I actually need to haul something. Anybody tried swapping in the BD valve body?

 

Have the mid level shift kits been known to alter line pressure?

I've liked what I have read here: http://www.allpar.com/mopar/torqueflite.html

I'm looking at this kit: TRANSGO PART: SK TFOD-DIESEL

Gotta find a way to drain the converter. Pulling off a line seems the most common method.

 

Yep, done lots like that. After you've got it all filled up with fluid, just remove the return line and put a short hose on, leading to a bucket. Fire it up in neutral and let it pump all the fluid into the bucket. You can pour a few more quarts in through the fill tube while it's pumping, if you like. As soon as the flow starts to slow down and spurt, shut the truck off.

 

I took a late nap. That hosed me!

I'm not sure what that means. Raising line pressure 5 psi is not much of a tweak. I suspect a shift kit would push it a bit. I may just stick to adjusting the bands as I always have. A shift kit just feels good. Measuring the various pressures is a good indicator of some aspects of a transmission.

I'll look up that pan.

I've got 4 gallons of synthetic and am anxious to use it. My fluid is a bit dark. It needs a complete purge.


Lol! I have never invested much in opinions. I need data. I've run synthetic in everything I own for years. It's benefits are easily measurable. Never had a new leak from it.


No prob! I've been documenting everything I do on this truck here: http://www.rotordesign.com/1993cummins

 

Depends on how you look at it. Given the amount of square inches of friction and the amount of square inches of the piston its a decent sized jump. For easy figuring if the piston is 10 square inches at 10 psi that's 100 pounds of force go up 5 psi that's 150 pounds of force if I'm figuring right lol...... To me that's a decent jump....

 

One turn on the adjustment equals 1.75 PSI. Be conservitive with it. One turn ought to be plenty.

 

I am very interested in this also.

could you guys who have done this tell us how it performed before and after the adjustment.

Dar

 

I will be measuring my line pressure before and after with any changes noted.

 

1 turn CCW of the line pressure adjustment equals 3 PSI as said here and in the sticky
http://www.dieseltrans.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=68
I think I backed mine out 2 turns the first time then another 2 1/2 turns the 2nd time. Then 1 turn on the shift adjustment the first time then 1 1/2 or 2 turns the 2nd time, I don't remember. But it definately helps. If you ever need some firm high rpm shifting, just zip tie your TV cable about all the way open, I did this while pulling racing and dynoing this summer. Shifted very firm at about 2700rpm then I would cut the zip tie off when I was done and put another one on and get it back to shifting around 2000 rpm. My old stock trans handled it just fine and I've put it through heck. These old things are pretty stout

 

Thanks for the tips! I bought this truck strictly for fuel economy while towing my 19' cargo trailer. Most of my towing will be at around 15-40mph. I might benefit from a new lower stall converter.

 

thats the best thing you could do!! Add some air flow and you will be happy with MPG's. careful you dont get a case of the feaver tho, first its a fuel pin, then the tamper caps come off all the screws, suddenly your turbo cant keep things cool.... good luck

 

The tamper covers came off during the rebuild. I am a drag racer. I love making horsepower. But this beast is for a specific purpose. If I wanted a rush I'd go find my old '64 440 Sport Fury Convertible