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Trany fluid & band adjustments?

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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 10:28 PM
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running4bhs's Avatar
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From: San diego, CA
Trany fluid & band adjustments?

I have to change my trany fluid, what’s a good brand to go with, stock auto trany, also I read that I should adjust the bands in my trany, but it doesn’t make any sense to me, can some please give me the dumb version on how to do this, oh yeah what kind of filter is recommended for this 47RE besides the dealership filter? Thanks guys
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 08:40 AM
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If you are not having any shift problems, I would suggest to leave the bands alone, if it ain't broke don't fix it. ATF-3 on the fluid and to do a complete change out you will have to drop the return line and put it in a bucket to get out all the fluid in the torque convertor, if you do a simple pan drop then it depends on how long you let the truck set as to drain back quantity. I would suggest do the complete fluid change out as I don't go for the partial of putting clean fluid back into a trans with old fluid still in it. Goodluck,,,Rick
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 10:13 AM
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Like Kandgo says, I prefer the complete flush as well.

Basically, have about 16-18 quarts of new fluid and a new filter and gasket on hand (autozone about $8 for filter kit). Drop the pan and about 5-6 quarts will drain out. Change the filter, clean the old gasket off and install a new one, reinstall the pan. Without starting the truck, go and add the 5 or 6 quarts of new fluid that you removed from the pan.

Next, go to the trans cooler, find the line that runs from the cooler to the tranny, this is the return line. Disconnect the rubber portion that connects to the cooler, run a piece of hose into a bucket (the piece of hose hooks up to the trans cooler and goes into the bucket).

Now, start the truck and with e-brake on, put it into nuetral and the fluid from the tranny will start to pump out. Run truck in nuetral for about 45 seconds to a minute. Then shut it off. What you are doing is pumping old fluid out, but you only want to do about 2 quarts at a time, so you don't run dry of fluid. The fluid will start to froth when the pump is getting low, so try to limit it to 2 quarts at a time.

Once 2 quarts are pumped out and engine is off, add two quarts of new fluid thru the dipstick. Then repeat this procedure untill you start to see new bright red fluid being pumped out. Measure what comes out so you can add that volume back in each time. Don't need to be exact, but the closer you measure, the closer your dipstick level will be to what it was before you started. Once that happens (new fluid coming out of hose), your done. Remove the hose, hook the cooler back up, and recheck your fluid level.

Just remember, the fluid only pumps in nuetral, takes around 16 to 18 quarts total, and the dipstick is very difficult to read. Final check of the level should be done with fluid warm, look at the backside of the dipstick, for some reason it is easier to read the actual level on the backside.

The rubber cooler line is clamped on at the cooler. Might be tough to get at the clamps, so removeing the bolts that hold the cooler to the support will let you move the cooler a little so you can get at the clamps.

Kevin
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 11:18 AM
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running4bhs, print Kevins post, it is a good and descriptive. Good job Kevin.. Goodluck,,Rick
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 12:00 PM
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Ok thank you very much I about to go do that right now
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 07:31 PM
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Ok I got the job done, but Iwas not able to change the transfer case because I didnt have the right size T socket to fit in there. What’s size is the bolts for the oil fill and oil drain on the transfer case? I tried a T-55 and a T-60 because they didn’t have any in-between and the T-55 was too small and the T-60 was too big. Thanks for you help guys.
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