47 RE swap.
47 RE swap.
Ok guys, i have a trans from a 2000 24 valve truck i plan to put in my 91.5
I know i either need to convert it from an RE to an RH or use a Megashift to run the governor solenoid.
I also have the starter, flex plate, and engine adaptor.
A few questions here:
1 - Will my stock driveshafts work.
2 - Is it possible to convert an RE to an RH. If do, how do i do it??
3 - how well will the stock converter work with a 12 valve (I plan to set it up to lock around 15 - 20 mph)
4 - Other than a shift kit, are there any other mods i should be considering for my mildly modified engine?? My estimated HP is about same as the engine it came off was rated stock (about 240)
I know i either need to convert it from an RE to an RH or use a Megashift to run the governor solenoid.
I also have the starter, flex plate, and engine adaptor.
A few questions here:
1 - Will my stock driveshafts work.
2 - Is it possible to convert an RE to an RH. If do, how do i do it??
3 - how well will the stock converter work with a 12 valve (I plan to set it up to lock around 15 - 20 mph)
4 - Other than a shift kit, are there any other mods i should be considering for my mildly modified engine?? My estimated HP is about same as the engine it came off was rated stock (about 240)
No way to switch a RE to a RH, not sure but think you will have driveshaft alterations as the RE is shorter.
I would run a billet converter personally, and do a valve body rather than a shift kit.
Is your 91 already an overdrive truck? If so, it is easier to change the 518 to a 47RH than to do what you propose.
I would run a billet converter personally, and do a valve body rather than a shift kit.
Is your 91 already an overdrive truck? If so, it is easier to change the 518 to a 47RH than to do what you propose.
[quote]A few questions here:
1 - Will my stock driveshafts work.
2 - Is it possible to convert an RE to an RH. If do, how do i do it??
3 - how well will the stock converter work with a 12 valve (I plan to set it up to lock around 15 - 20 mph)
4 - Other than a shift kit, are there any other mods i should be considering for my mildly modified engine?? My estimated HP is about same as the engine it came off was rated stock (about 240)
1. Maybe. The transmissions are the same length but the engine adapter is 1 1/8" deeper to allow for the extra depth of the converter so everything moves rearward that same amount. You may have enough fudge room, or may not.
2. Anything is possible but not everything is practical. There are too many differences, especially in the case with the hydraulic passages.
3. I used a stock converter in mine, but I don't abuse my truck either. 15-20 MPH is way too low for lock up, I would suggest around 40 MPH.
4. I like the billet servos and accumulator with extra sealing rings, the 4.4:1 front band apply lever and the Sonnax manual valve that allows the converter to fill in park. You can go absolutely crazy here with billet parts and extra discs and such if you desire.
1 - Will my stock driveshafts work.
2 - Is it possible to convert an RE to an RH. If do, how do i do it??
3 - how well will the stock converter work with a 12 valve (I plan to set it up to lock around 15 - 20 mph)
4 - Other than a shift kit, are there any other mods i should be considering for my mildly modified engine?? My estimated HP is about same as the engine it came off was rated stock (about 240)
1. Maybe. The transmissions are the same length but the engine adapter is 1 1/8" deeper to allow for the extra depth of the converter so everything moves rearward that same amount. You may have enough fudge room, or may not.
2. Anything is possible but not everything is practical. There are too many differences, especially in the case with the hydraulic passages.
3. I used a stock converter in mine, but I don't abuse my truck either. 15-20 MPH is way too low for lock up, I would suggest around 40 MPH.
4. I like the billet servos and accumulator with extra sealing rings, the 4.4:1 front band apply lever and the Sonnax manual valve that allows the converter to fill in park. You can go absolutely crazy here with billet parts and extra discs and such if you desire.
1st gen rear drive shafts bolt to the NP-205 T-case with a U-joint.
2nd gen rear drive shafts have a slip yoke that works with the NP-241 T-case.
That will make the rear drive shaft not work.
The front might bolt up.
2nd gen rear drive shafts have a slip yoke that works with the NP-241 T-case.
That will make the rear drive shaft not work.
The front might bolt up.
That said. I do have access to the shafts from the later truck.
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Yep, it would be easier to turn your 518 into a lockup....... I also believe all the parts necessary are right there in the RE. ( or are cheap to pick up to kep the RE together )
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...-cheap-318014/
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...-cheap-318014/
Yep, it would be easier to turn your 518 into a lockup....... I also believe all the parts necessary are right there in the RE. ( or are cheap to pick up to kep the RE together )
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...-cheap-318014/
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...-cheap-318014/
Everything except the valvebody.
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every re tranny I've looked at was about 6 inches shorter than the rh versions. you can convert the re to an rh. The case has the gov pressure passages, you have to use the rear support with the two holes on the tab that sticks out where the gov pressure tubes slide into. Use the 518 O/D housing and output shaft. You would also need either the 47rh valve body or a bucks down alternative would be any lockup valve body from a four speed gasser, and switch out the diesel vb springs under the vb side covers, if different.
every re tranny I've looked at was about 6 inches shorter than the rh versions. you can convert the re to an rh. The case has the gov pressure passages, you have to use the rear support with the two holes on the tab that sticks out where the gov pressure tubes slide into. Use the 518 O/D housing and output shaft. You would also need either the 47rh valve body or a bucks down alternative would be any lockup valve body from a four speed gasser, and switch out the diesel vb springs under the vb side covers, if different.
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