i am looking at buying a cummings, and thus far i have been most interested in the 12 valve, because of the cheaper horsepower, could someone that knows more then me, just give me a list of pro's and con's as to go towardas a 12 or a 24 valve. thanks...

 

Take a look at THIS thread. While its not directly related to your question, it does cover some of the answers your looking for.

(By the way, its "Cummins".... no "g").

Rich

 

Simply put

NO computer gizmos to work with.. i like that... By the way.. Welcome to DTR!... enjoy your stay and as soon as you get a rig.. update ur sig with its info.. hopefully shell be a 12V not that im biased... but either way you go, u cannot go wrong..

Enjoy


Tx

 

injector pumps on 24v are junk they are always breaking. 12v mods are cheaper and are alot more dependable and you can get alot more power out of them

 

While some may not like computers, I'm quickly learning (with my own 12v) that mechanical things (e.g. the 12v inj. pump) don't stay calibrated or good forever. Mine doesn't run that well at 137k, and I can almost guarantee at this point its the pump. There are others I know personally that have their share of issues with the P7100.

Yes, they are cheaper to get power out of. They may get out of calibration, but rarely completely crater like a VP44 (24v electronic injection pump).

The VP44 has the advantage of better driveability, however. This is simply because more things are being monitored, and more things can be controlled (like injection timing) on a dynamic basis on the 24v engines.

 

Clint, us 12valve owners are unabashedly biased.
I sought out a 12valve for simplicity's sake. No engine computer,sensors,Check Engine Light, etc. A little cheaper to maintain, a little bit better mileage than 24v's, Very good trackrecord on the long haul. They are a little shy on stock horsepower but that is VERY easily rectified if your drivetrain can take it. 1st gen 12v VE injector pumps and 2nd gen 12v P7100 pumps have been SUPER reliable.
Mainly, I operate a fairly high power Amateur Radio station while mobile and I didn't want to listen to any igniton noise anymore! Nor did I want to interfere with the vehicle electronics(so far, so good!).
It really depends on what you wanna do with your CTD. From a simple daily driver, all the way to a BOMBed, very high horsepower, ricer-punishing road slingshot. Highway only 4x2 or On/Offroad 4x4.

Don't be scared of a 24v if you run across a good one. Higher initial power, easy electronic methods of HP increases, later cab design etc.
There are plenty highly qualified people here on this site that can help recommend how you can empty your wallet on highly addictive horsepower BOMB's either way you go, 12v or 24v!

My best recommendation?: Post a description of your prospective finds and ask for some specific things to check on depending on what model year and drive train options.
For instance:
2nd gen 12valves (and early 24valves) all have a very easily preventable "Killer Dowel Pin" (KDP) problem that you should be aware of. Do a search on KDP* and you'll have lots of info to read.
4X4's have a wimpy stock trackbar that can drive you crazy keeping it in the middle of the road when it gets worn.
24v's have a failure prone fuel lift pump and also the VP-44 inj pump that appears to be easily damaged by it.
Auto's have a wimpy stock torque converter clutch that can't handle very much extra torque without an upgrade.

Good luck in your hunt... After all, we think you are looking in the right direction first!

Keith

 

I think you will be very happy with any of the CTD's, there are a lot of people with very high mileage 24 valve trucks, and IMO they can be bombed for nearly the same money as a 12 valve.

 

Glad to see theres more people running some higher wattage with the CTD!

 

Charlotte, nice place. Do you ever go to the Ashboro Zoo?