Oh no KDP!
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Oh no KDP!
Yesterday my truck split the timing case, while pulling into a parking space. It puked oil everywhere in a matter of seconds. The PO said the KDP had been taken care of, but the longer I own this truck and learn more about it, I'm not sure just how trustworthy he really is.
So now I will be tearing it apart and installing a new timing gear case. But I have a question regarding this. Do you have to remove the lift pump to pull the cam out? In all the instructions I have came across nothing is ever said about it. But I was just thinking that it being camdriven by a lobe that it might have to come out also.
I would reccomend checking the KDP for yourself when purchasing atruck that has supposedly been tabed already. My dad simply said "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" as he pulled the mighty dodge home behind his chevy .
So now I will be tearing it apart and installing a new timing gear case. But I have a question regarding this. Do you have to remove the lift pump to pull the cam out? In all the instructions I have came across nothing is ever said about it. But I was just thinking that it being camdriven by a lobe that it might have to come out also.
I would reccomend checking the KDP for yourself when purchasing atruck that has supposedly been tabed already. My dad simply said "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" as he pulled the mighty dodge home behind his chevy .
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yes, unless you see it on your own, you can't trust the previous owner. They will tell you what ever you want to hear to make the sale.
It's possible a bolt fell out, not the KDP but it's very unlikely. Hopefully you can get it repaired at a fairly low cost.
It's possible a bolt fell out, not the KDP but it's very unlikely. Hopefully you can get it repaired at a fairly low cost.
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I am going to purchase one of the timing gear cases of ebay, so if that and gaskets is all I need the total shouldn't be too bad. I'm just trying to remain calm and use this as a learning experience, as I have never been inside a CTD before.
Truck still purrs like a kitten (at least for the few seconds it ran after the noise). So i am thinking the damage is just to the gear case itself.
Truck still purrs like a kitten (at least for the few seconds it ran after the noise). So i am thinking the damage is just to the gear case itself.
#5
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I had my KDP fixed by Cummins, just as I have all work done by Cummins.
Any Cummins shop can run my engine plate and be able to pull up the repair history on my engine... KDP fix included.
If I ever sell my truck, I not only have a paper record of everything Ive ever done/fixed/upgraded on my truck, Cummins also has an electronic trail that matches.
I can provide either to the next owner.
Rich.
Any Cummins shop can run my engine plate and be able to pull up the repair history on my engine... KDP fix included.
If I ever sell my truck, I not only have a paper record of everything Ive ever done/fixed/upgraded on my truck, Cummins also has an electronic trail that matches.
I can provide either to the next owner.
Rich.
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Yep, you pull the lift pump. Along w/ EVERYTHING in front of the engine, including breaking open the A/C system, radiator, I/C, upper radiator support and even the front bumper. And all that just to slide a cam out! Lots of fun...
I've seen some folks on here say that you can pull the cam gear off with a gear puller, but IDK much about that. I figured that'd be something else to go wrong. :P Besides that, if you pull all the above mentioned stuff, you'll have a lot easier access to everything. When you go to put it all back together, get some good Loctite and loctite every bolt inside that timing case. I had a few that were a bit loose when I took mine apart... they'll not work loose again!
I had the same thing happen to me... the guy who owned it told me it was tabbed. Sure enough, it wasn't and I spent a solid week and a 1/2 tearing it down and re-assembling it in 30* weather (at least I had a carport to work under).
I've seen some folks on here say that you can pull the cam gear off with a gear puller, but IDK much about that. I figured that'd be something else to go wrong. :P Besides that, if you pull all the above mentioned stuff, you'll have a lot easier access to everything. When you go to put it all back together, get some good Loctite and loctite every bolt inside that timing case. I had a few that were a bit loose when I took mine apart... they'll not work loose again!
I had the same thing happen to me... the guy who owned it told me it was tabbed. Sure enough, it wasn't and I spent a solid week and a 1/2 tearing it down and re-assembling it in 30* weather (at least I had a carport to work under).
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I had a local guy tell me to take the cam gear off, but it seems like there would be a reason why all the step by step instructions on the net say to pull the cam.
I just hope I have all the tools that will be needed while doing the work. If anyone knows of any specialty type tools they used, please let me know. Thanks
I just hope I have all the tools that will be needed while doing the work. If anyone knows of any specialty type tools they used, please let me know. Thanks
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#10
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Most Cummins shops no longer remove the cam when replacing the case, cuts about $600 off the bill, you don't have to take the front end all apart. First turn the engine till the line up marks on the gears are lined up. A high quality three prong puller (Snap On is best) is used to remove the gear off the cam but there is also a special Cummins puller made just for it that works way better mainly because it fits in the tight space without the radiator removed.
The gear goes back on by heating it and sliding it on to the cam.
The gear can be heated in two ways, 1) Toaster oven, next to the truck so the gear does not cool down: 2) Propane space heater, one that can have the elements turn up like a grill. Set the temp around 300 F. The oven is the easiest way, depending on the oven it could take 30-45 minutes to heat up, in the meantime you can clean some parts. The propane heater is faster about 10-15 minutes but you need to be fast because the gear will cool down faster and may get stuck half way.
You need an extra hand for a few minutes to hold the cam from moving back and pushing out the rear cam plug. The cam is held by removing the fuel lift/transfer pump (don't drop the pump actuator arm into the crankcase!) and using a pry bar on the cam lobe, apply a little force to move the cam toward the front of the engine. The cam can move slightly but all you want is the cam not to move back when the gear is going back on. Once the gear is up to the temp, the crank and cam timing position has been set, someone is holding the cam from sliding back, you then grab the gear with high temp welding gloves and slide the gear back on, sometimes might have to tap it back with a plastic mallet or dead blow hammer but never with a steel hammer. It is very surprising how easy the gear slides back on when hot.
I would only recommend this to someone with experience. Sounds a little complicated but is way easier.
There are three drawbacks: 1) gear cooling down half way, then you have to wait 10 minutes to cool and remove it again to start all over; 2) Not aligning the crank and cam; 3) Allowing the cam to move back and pushing out the rear cam plug, then you will have to pull the engine.
Some people think this method causes a weaker fit for the gear but Cummins has been using this method exclusively for several years, I've never heard of a problem
The gear goes back on by heating it and sliding it on to the cam.
The gear can be heated in two ways, 1) Toaster oven, next to the truck so the gear does not cool down: 2) Propane space heater, one that can have the elements turn up like a grill. Set the temp around 300 F. The oven is the easiest way, depending on the oven it could take 30-45 minutes to heat up, in the meantime you can clean some parts. The propane heater is faster about 10-15 minutes but you need to be fast because the gear will cool down faster and may get stuck half way.
You need an extra hand for a few minutes to hold the cam from moving back and pushing out the rear cam plug. The cam is held by removing the fuel lift/transfer pump (don't drop the pump actuator arm into the crankcase!) and using a pry bar on the cam lobe, apply a little force to move the cam toward the front of the engine. The cam can move slightly but all you want is the cam not to move back when the gear is going back on. Once the gear is up to the temp, the crank and cam timing position has been set, someone is holding the cam from sliding back, you then grab the gear with high temp welding gloves and slide the gear back on, sometimes might have to tap it back with a plastic mallet or dead blow hammer but never with a steel hammer. It is very surprising how easy the gear slides back on when hot.
I would only recommend this to someone with experience. Sounds a little complicated but is way easier.
There are three drawbacks: 1) gear cooling down half way, then you have to wait 10 minutes to cool and remove it again to start all over; 2) Not aligning the crank and cam; 3) Allowing the cam to move back and pushing out the rear cam plug, then you will have to pull the engine.
Some people think this method causes a weaker fit for the gear but Cummins has been using this method exclusively for several years, I've never heard of a problem
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Infidel is there a key in the camgear? And thank you for shedding some light on the subject, I now feel much better about the idea of not pulling the cam.
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I can hear it now...
Honey, I'm just going to bring the toaster oven out to the garage for a couple hours.
Sure. Go ahead, what are you cooking out there?
Um, nothing just heating up my cam gear.
Cam gear? You better not make that toaster oven smell like oil the way you did with the shop vac!
Honey, I'm just going to bring the toaster oven out to the garage for a couple hours.
Sure. Go ahead, what are you cooking out there?
Um, nothing just heating up my cam gear.
Cam gear? You better not make that toaster oven smell like oil the way you did with the shop vac!
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