thrillbilly timing question
thrillbilly timing question
is there anyway to time the 12 valve without buying the timeing kit(dial indicator,delivery valve holder thingy,etc.) ? probably not, if so feel free to openly flame me.
Not really because there is a chance that the timing isn't even at stock when you start, it could have slipped so its all a big guess. If you are wrong and go too high it will stress your head gasket.
Ive talked to a few of the local diesel shops. I love buyin new tools but I don't think it's worth spending the money just to bump my timing once. The local shops have given me some decent quotes (can't remember the exact numbers). Something to look into...
yeah my local diesel shop quotes 145 bucks or something, but the screenname is still cheapskate. oh, and i just put a headgasket in so.... i would rather not do it again for at least a little while. for a job like timing, i agree that a proper job would be best, and145 is cheaper than buying the tools.
$145 for timing once. Thats $290 for having it done twice (if it slips, you want adjust it, etc). The kit itself is a bit more than $200 AMD, and you'll need a barring tool as well. You could have all of it for less than having the truck timed twice, and then you can play with it and find the sweet spot, or help others. Check on here about building your own timing kit. Looks fairly simple if you have a few things kicking around. Thats the way I'm going.
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ok, so what is the mathamatical equation? i asssume it goes some thing like this- "assuming" that the timeing is currently at say 12.5 deg. advanced while at TDC, and there are 360 deg. in a circle one could figure out where it would need to be for 15.5 advanced. maybe using a series of marks and a protractor? i don't think i will be trying this method, just curious.
I will make this a simple as possible for you, but yes you can time the motor without a kit.
the pump can slip time, but you can find the stock timing on it via the pin. when it slips time it is only slipping on the gear.
pull the plug out on the side of the pump and bar the motor over, using a mirror bar it over until the pin comes up in the center of the window. you can turn the pin around and hold the pump in place, but this is stock time on the pump.
now pull the gear and bring the motor to tdc. once you have done this the motor will be back in stock time.
you can use degree tape or some math knowing the dampner is about 29 inches. and back it up the degrees desired. and inch is roughly 10 degrees. once you have it where you desire pull the pin back out to prevent breaking it when you torque the gear.
This is how I time them, and I have checked them with a timing light to make sure and Im no less than .5 degrees off. (the timing light measures the pulse of the #1 injector line, and a mark i make at tdc on the dampner and gives you exact timing as the injection event occours. pump timig can be effected by oversize injection lines as well)
the pump can slip time, but you can find the stock timing on it via the pin. when it slips time it is only slipping on the gear.
pull the plug out on the side of the pump and bar the motor over, using a mirror bar it over until the pin comes up in the center of the window. you can turn the pin around and hold the pump in place, but this is stock time on the pump.
now pull the gear and bring the motor to tdc. once you have done this the motor will be back in stock time.
you can use degree tape or some math knowing the dampner is about 29 inches. and back it up the degrees desired. and inch is roughly 10 degrees. once you have it where you desire pull the pin back out to prevent breaking it when you torque the gear.
This is how I time them, and I have checked them with a timing light to make sure and Im no less than .5 degrees off. (the timing light measures the pulse of the #1 injector line, and a mark i make at tdc on the dampner and gives you exact timing as the injection event occours. pump timig can be effected by oversize injection lines as well)


