auto to stick
10-09-2005, 12:40 PM
#16
Registered User
Id wait up
Got Diesel? is writing up an article, he is doing a five speed swap into his ride and he will have a full on artcle on how it was done... i cant wait to read it, even though i already have the manual trans
Tx
Got Diesel? is writing up an article, he is doing a five speed swap into his ride and he will have a full on artcle on how it was done... i cant wait to read it, even though i already have the manual trans
Tx
10-09-2005, 02:40 PM
#17
Banned
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Juneau, ALASKA
Posts: 394
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
difficulty and work are all subjective of course, but I don't believe it's a hard swap AT ALL!! I'm doing a write up and will start a detailed thread in a few weeks when I finish the installation (waiting for a part still)
Here's the short list though.....
NEW (not reman) trans w/ 29 spline ouput .....................................$1875
I ordered it with the 98+ top cover to install a BD short shifter
I ordered it with the '95 ext housing (has bosses for tcas lever)
Bellhousing, stick, syntec, release brg, fork, pivot, trans mount...........$360
master, slave, lines, resevoir.......................................... ...............$225
no need to change the bracket, Just hang the new pedals
and spacers. All brackets have provisions to mount master
and all trucks have the firewall hole.
29 spline tcase head gear (need to replace 23 spline auto head gear)...$225
this is not a difficult replacement, no special tools, just basic
teardown. Depending on which version of the tcase you have,
either the wide or narrow input bearing, this might need to be
changed as well to match the new head gear....a $20 bearing
mine had the wide bearing and I needed the narrow bearing.
SBC ConFE 13-1.25 conversion clutch w/flywheel............................$1300
BD short shift kit............................................... ..........................$235
98+ shift console, boots, brackets.......................................... .......$275
I liked the later style better than my era
clutch and brake pedals (w/all 6 nylon bushings and clips)...................$95
No crossmembers changes necessary, though the rear shaft is 4" longer, and the front 4" shorter. I did this myself, but can cost artound $250 each to make. hang the trans without the shift tower on it, and mark the floorpan for the new hole. Remove then trans and cut the hole the size to fit your new lower boot. Remove your engine mounted and radiator mounted trans coolers if you like. I did in prep for sequential compounds.
Anyway that's the short list. All said and done the cost is about the same as a built auto, so it all falls down to what you really want to have in your truck. It DEFINITELY doesn't warrant buying a manual truck though, providing you have some mechanical skills. It's a straight forward conversion.
If you had a donor truck, some money could be saved, but you would still need a good clutch and to update the trans....a good half of the cost anyway.
And BTW, I got most everything from High Impact in California.. High-Impact.net ...except the short shifter, clutch, console, and pedals.
good luck and get to rowin'...I'll have that article up in a few weeks, it'll also be on High Impact's site.
Here's the short list though.....
NEW (not reman) trans w/ 29 spline ouput .....................................$1875
I ordered it with the 98+ top cover to install a BD short shifter
I ordered it with the '95 ext housing (has bosses for tcas lever)
Bellhousing, stick, syntec, release brg, fork, pivot, trans mount...........$360
master, slave, lines, resevoir.......................................... ...............$225
no need to change the bracket, Just hang the new pedals
and spacers. All brackets have provisions to mount master
and all trucks have the firewall hole.
29 spline tcase head gear (need to replace 23 spline auto head gear)...$225
this is not a difficult replacement, no special tools, just basic
teardown. Depending on which version of the tcase you have,
either the wide or narrow input bearing, this might need to be
changed as well to match the new head gear....a $20 bearing
mine had the wide bearing and I needed the narrow bearing.
SBC ConFE 13-1.25 conversion clutch w/flywheel............................$1300
BD short shift kit............................................... ..........................$235
98+ shift console, boots, brackets.......................................... .......$275
I liked the later style better than my era
clutch and brake pedals (w/all 6 nylon bushings and clips)...................$95
No crossmembers changes necessary, though the rear shaft is 4" longer, and the front 4" shorter. I did this myself, but can cost artound $250 each to make. hang the trans without the shift tower on it, and mark the floorpan for the new hole. Remove then trans and cut the hole the size to fit your new lower boot. Remove your engine mounted and radiator mounted trans coolers if you like. I did in prep for sequential compounds.
Anyway that's the short list. All said and done the cost is about the same as a built auto, so it all falls down to what you really want to have in your truck. It DEFINITELY doesn't warrant buying a manual truck though, providing you have some mechanical skills. It's a straight forward conversion.
If you had a donor truck, some money could be saved, but you would still need a good clutch and to update the trans....a good half of the cost anyway.
And BTW, I got most everything from High Impact in California.. High-Impact.net ...except the short shifter, clutch, console, and pedals.
good luck and get to rowin'...I'll have that article up in a few weeks, it'll also be on High Impact's site.
10-09-2005, 04:09 PM
#18
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Garrard county, Kentucky
Posts: 3,077
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Be quiet guys. As soon as i thought i was happy with my auto you have to go and do this 
Seriously though. Sometimes, i do really wish mine were a 5spd, but then sometimes(like when im racing) i really love the automatic. Spool this sucker up on the line, and you are gone when you let off the brake pedal. I still have a few issues to work out with the auto(i think i have some clutches slipping), but other than that i am pretty happy with it so far. Especially for bieng dead set on a manual when i bought the truck.
Eric
Seriously though. Sometimes, i do really wish mine were a 5spd, but then sometimes(like when im racing) i really love the automatic. Spool this sucker up on the line, and you are gone when you let off the brake pedal. I still have a few issues to work out with the auto(i think i have some clutches slipping), but other than that i am pretty happy with it so far. Especially for bieng dead set on a manual when i bought the truck. Eric
10-09-2005, 05:19 PM
#20
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Indiana
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My truck was an auto and has the manual in it now Haisely did mine, but that was before i got it. If you have a lot of mods you might need a duel disc clutch in it also. (765) 948-3164
10-10-2005, 12:23 AM
#21
Banned
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Juneau, ALASKA
Posts: 394
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
FYI...here's a link to the revised wiring I did for a 47RH equipped truck (94-95). Because of the missing Automatic Trans Nuetral safety/back-up switch, the PCM will be looking for a ground circuit established by the nuetral switch in the nuetral position to defeat cruise control. To simulate this switch, a ground circuit must be open while driving. However, during crank, the ground control side of the start relay requires this circuit to be closed. By adding a relay as the revised diagram shows, power from the ign switch start circuit closes an added relay, competing a circuit to ground and enabling the start relay. Once the key is back on the run position, the relay opens, breaking the ground circuit and simulating an automatic trans NOT in nuetral. This allows cruise to work as factory. I am not sure of this mod for the RE equipped trucks, and maybe someone will research it and let you know if it concerns you.
For the back-up circuit to work properly, simply extend the wires at the existing nuetral/back-up plug #C169. They are pins 1 and 3. Pin 1 is fused ign output 18 gauge brown and light green. Pin 3 is 18 gauge violet and black. Hook them to the reverse switch located on the top of the 5 sp top cover. Polarity is not important as it is merely an insulated switch. The 3rd wire besides pin1 and 3 is the ground circuit for the nuetral switch. Either remove it, or tape it off. The connections for the external added relay are easiest to make at plug #C125, gray in color located at the driver engine side firewall directly below cowl. Your wire will be 20 gauge black and white. Clip it and add on wiring to the plug side per modification. tape off or remove trans side of wire. Plug #C132, located above clutch pedal and green in color, is where you will splice onto the start circuit to control the positive side of the added relay. Wire colr will be dark blue and yellow, 18 gauge.
Hope this helps. If this image is not clear enough, the full size version is available in my gallery, once it is approved by admin.
For the back-up circuit to work properly, simply extend the wires at the existing nuetral/back-up plug #C169. They are pins 1 and 3. Pin 1 is fused ign output 18 gauge brown and light green. Pin 3 is 18 gauge violet and black. Hook them to the reverse switch located on the top of the 5 sp top cover. Polarity is not important as it is merely an insulated switch. The 3rd wire besides pin1 and 3 is the ground circuit for the nuetral switch. Either remove it, or tape it off. The connections for the external added relay are easiest to make at plug #C125, gray in color located at the driver engine side firewall directly below cowl. Your wire will be 20 gauge black and white. Clip it and add on wiring to the plug side per modification. tape off or remove trans side of wire. Plug #C132, located above clutch pedal and green in color, is where you will splice onto the start circuit to control the positive side of the added relay. Wire colr will be dark blue and yellow, 18 gauge.
Hope this helps. If this image is not clear enough, the full size version is available in my gallery, once it is approved by admin.
10-20-2005, 02:17 AM
#22
Banned
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Juneau, ALASKA
Posts: 394
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
okay, just a quick update....was waiting for the back-ordered master assembly before my trans would ship. I received everything yesterday and was like a kid on christmas morning...until I opened the crate to find a **** 2wd trans!! I called High Impact and they were as shocked as me. After checking the original PO, they assured me that bluementhal's (sp), where the trans was built, recieved the right specs. They got on the ball and a few hours later we had it all sorted out. To save a lot of extra time we decided that they would express mail overnight me the proper extension housing, a new mainshaft and anything else equired to convert the trans to 4X4. I tore the trans down tonight in prep and await the box to finish the job. THIS TRUCK WILL RUN BY SUNDAY!! I have spent the last month waiting for an SBC back-order, trans build, many other back-ordered parts, and I have become dead set on driving in 4 days.
Anyway, the message in this post is that High Impact as well as Bluementhals stood behind their companies and stepped up to take care of my time sensitive requests and didn't waste time throwing around responsibility for the errors. They just got me taken care of in a timely manner. In addition, an important aspect of their offering is the thouroughness of their conversion "kits" When I received my final order, it was complete with fluid, all the body clips for the hydraulics, and even the clip for the master cylinder to pedal rod. Upon disassembly of the trans, I blueprinted to ensure lash and it was spot on. Every part looked new, sealnt was where it was supposed to be and not where it wasn't. The bolts that required locking compound were indeed locked, and all the hard parts looked new and unused. The 5th gear remedy they apply is of the full spline version with a light press fit gear backed by a coned thrust washer. The spanner locknut is of the dual set screw variety complete with brass inserts so as not to mar shaft threads. A flange is incorporated into the nut that is pinged into a key way follwed by a healthy dose of red locktight. It was a real bugger to get apart I'll tell you that. I have no doubt it will hold that pesky 5th gear!!
Anyway, just so you guys know the offerings of High Impact and the designs and parts they incorporate into their units/kits.
I'll let you know more of the brass tacks come Sunday. Wish me luck and lets have a group prayer nothing else comes up between now and then!!
Later
Chris
Anyway, the message in this post is that High Impact as well as Bluementhals stood behind their companies and stepped up to take care of my time sensitive requests and didn't waste time throwing around responsibility for the errors. They just got me taken care of in a timely manner. In addition, an important aspect of their offering is the thouroughness of their conversion "kits" When I received my final order, it was complete with fluid, all the body clips for the hydraulics, and even the clip for the master cylinder to pedal rod. Upon disassembly of the trans, I blueprinted to ensure lash and it was spot on. Every part looked new, sealnt was where it was supposed to be and not where it wasn't. The bolts that required locking compound were indeed locked, and all the hard parts looked new and unused. The 5th gear remedy they apply is of the full spline version with a light press fit gear backed by a coned thrust washer. The spanner locknut is of the dual set screw variety complete with brass inserts so as not to mar shaft threads. A flange is incorporated into the nut that is pinged into a key way follwed by a healthy dose of red locktight. It was a real bugger to get apart I'll tell you that. I have no doubt it will hold that pesky 5th gear!!
Anyway, just so you guys know the offerings of High Impact and the designs and parts they incorporate into their units/kits.
I'll let you know more of the brass tacks come Sunday. Wish me luck and lets have a group prayer nothing else comes up between now and then!!
Later
Chris
04-24-2006, 04:51 PM
#24
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Just Moved To COLUMBUS, OH
Posts: 605
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
can you give me any good sources
i have a 96 and i want to/ actually need to do something with my tranny... hence i would like to know if anyone knows any good lacations i can buy a conversion kit to make my cummins a stick!!! my uncle has a 03 6-speed, and he is in the process of bombing it 
. he let me drive it a while ago and i wet my pants. the difference is unbelievable, and i want at lest a five speed for my 96 instead of the auto. i live in mass, and my uncle is in ohio so if there is any places online or close to me or him could you let me know where to get a conversion kit... thanks....
John
P.S.
i am a nissan Tech... and he is a master nissan tech and a master lexus tech... so we will have no probelems in the mechanical part of it... thanks again...
e-mail me at: baseballboy15@comcast.net.... just write cummins diesel in the topic
. he let me drive it a while ago and i wet my pants. the difference is unbelievable, and i want at lest a five speed for my 96 instead of the auto. i live in mass, and my uncle is in ohio so if there is any places online or close to me or him could you let me know where to get a conversion kit... thanks....John
P.S.
i am a nissan Tech... and he is a master nissan tech and a master lexus tech... so we will have no probelems in the mechanical part of it... thanks again...
e-mail me at: baseballboy15@comcast.net.... just write cummins diesel in the topic
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
GO 4LO
Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only
7
02-20-2003 02:08 PM