94 trans in a 93
#16
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Is the lockup switch a "Lockup OFF" switch, i.e. ON (locked) when grounded, and OFF (unlocked) when you push/release the switch button?
The "Overdrive OFF" switch is such: it is ON when iit is grounded/button-depressed (i.e. normally closed) and OFF when switch is open/button-released/up.
The "Overdrive OFF" switch is such: it is ON when iit is grounded/button-depressed (i.e. normally closed) and OFF when switch is open/button-released/up.
Wrong - the OD OFF switch is a momentary on, it just sends a ground to the PCM and the PCM grounds or opens the GND lead to the OD.
1st question :
If you install a regular 'push on/push off' switch - yes that's how it will work.
Cowboy_Customs - You can do the same for the OD if you want.
There is one 'gotch' I discovered - if the lockup is ON you can turn on the OD but the OD will NOT release even if you turn it OFF unless you turn off the lockup. You can just hit the lockup switch OFF then ON and the OD will release.
I have mine on pressure switches but have to this manually. Haven't figured out how to momentarily turn the lockup off then on automatically - - - YET.
#17
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Location: Oak Hills (Cajon Pass Summit), Ca
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speed sensor connection issue
I'm in the final stages of the swap and stumped by the speed sensor connection. The A518/NP205 speed sensor in the 1993 truck has a 2-wire connection whereas the 47RH/NP241 has a 3-wire connection.
1993 Two wire on the NP205: BK/LB is the sensor return to the PCM, and WT/OR is the 8 volts from the PCM.
1995 Three-wire on the NP241: 1-WT/OR goes to PCM pin 47 and the instrument cluster; 2-OR 8 volts from the PCM; 3- BK/LB goes to the PCM sensor ground.
What's the proper connection?
1993 Two wire on the NP205: BK/LB is the sensor return to the PCM, and WT/OR is the 8 volts from the PCM.
1995 Three-wire on the NP241: 1-WT/OR goes to PCM pin 47 and the instrument cluster; 2-OR 8 volts from the PCM; 3- BK/LB goes to the PCM sensor ground.
What's the proper connection?
#18
Both the sticky's appear to be centered around 4WD's. Anyone here done a 2WD?
How did you do deal with the rear cross-member? Did you use 1st or 2nd gen trans mount?
The brake and fuel lines are right Where the starter hits. Just bend them lots or did you make a new one and re-route them? How much off the top frame flange did you trim???
Darn close fit. From other cars which were tight- I would suggest counter sinking the engine side of the trans case. Use a 1/16 o-ring to keep the upper bolts from falling out. Then use a long extension(1/2 ) to tighten them up. I have an extension with ball-lock so the socket cannot come off the extension.
Michael
How did you do deal with the rear cross-member? Did you use 1st or 2nd gen trans mount?
The brake and fuel lines are right Where the starter hits. Just bend them lots or did you make a new one and re-route them? How much off the top frame flange did you trim???
Darn close fit. From other cars which were tight- I would suggest counter sinking the engine side of the trans case. Use a 1/16 o-ring to keep the upper bolts from falling out. Then use a long extension(1/2 ) to tighten them up. I have an extension with ball-lock so the socket cannot come off the extension.
Michael
#19
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I'm in the process of putting a '94-'95 auto in my '93 but having troubles finding the 1" thicker bell housing adaptor.
Anybody have one for sale or know were I can find one?
Thanks,
Mike McWilliams
661.331.2996
Anybody have one for sale or know were I can find one?
Thanks,
Mike McWilliams
661.331.2996
#20
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Location: Oak Hills (Cajon Pass Summit), Ca
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when i did mine i bought a whole 95 truck for $2000 took the trans, tcase, b/h adapter, flywheel, starter, etc. and sold the rest for $1200.
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