Like it says i can get a trans out of a 94 and newer cummins with the torque converter lock up (47RH).What will i have to do with my 1st gen motor to make it work.Like flywheel starter motor plate

 

You will need,
1.) The 94-02 bellhousing adaptor which is about 1" thicker than your current one.
2.) Get the starter that goes with adaptor and your going to want to bend (trust me your going to want to after the starter hitting the frame drives you nuts) the frame up slightly where the starter is.
3.) Transmission 47RH from a 94 or 95 truck, diesel prefered, but a V10 unit can be made to work by changing the governer weights in the OD unit if you can't find a diesel setup unit. Not going into that here.
4.) Get the 2nd gen flexplate, either when you get all the other parts or ge a new one.
5.) 3 pin connector for lockup/OD functions, get from the junkyard or from these guys if you really can't find one http://www.transmissionsone.com/, just a friendly warning, the page is huge and the connector is at the bottom. At $39 I consider this a last resort, junk yard ones are alot cheaper.
6.) You need to decide at this point what kind of $$$ you can spend on this, can you afford some aftermarket stuff, throw a master rebuild kit at it, a good torque converter and a full valve body and a billet front lever (one that lets you lockup in any forward gear )

I prefer the simple way of hooking it up, get yourself some wire, shrink tubing, soldering equipment, and a switch (you can use 2 as an option). I mounted mine on the dash with a little homemade aluminum bracket. I did 1 switch for lockup intially, but I'm going to 2 so I can control both OD and lockup manually just incase the PCM decides not to shift it into OD when I want it to.
from the above mentioned website.

Installation:
Is it 4 wheel drive or 2 wheel? 2 wheel drive is simplier, no transfer case. On the 4 wheel drive transmissions the T-case from a 94-95 seals with a seal on the T-case input shaft. NP205's have a coupler between the trans and itself and it seals on the flange. I find the easiest thing to do is to pull the seal out and use RTV to seal the flange up. Be aware that there is a drain of sorts on the OD unit that is why you should use RTV a gasket won't seal it.

Trans mount:
It's going to have to modified slightly, if you or a buddy has a milling machine then its a piece of cake and it will turn out looking pretty decent. If you don't you can use a cutting torch to do it also, won't look as nice, but then again who's going to see it. The slots in trans mount plate need to be lengthed the amount the trans moved back which is about an 1".

Drive shafts:
Depending on the wheel base, you may or may not have to shorten/lengthen the drive shafts, I didn't have to on a club cab. I did have to move the carrier bearing mount rearward an 1" with 1/4" x 2" flat stock.

TV bellcrank lever:
This is VERY important, the 94-95 lever is incorrect for the 1st gen application, won't travel correctly and the trans won't shift right. You will need to take the one off of your current A518 or 727 and put it on the trans going in the truck.

Things I didn't do:
I did not move the shifter linkage pivot point on the frame, don't know if there are any issues, but it works fine for me the way it is.

I haven't reinstalled the skid plate, lack of time and ambition to fab something up to make it fit back in there.

Wipe the smile off my face after the first test drive with it.

Wanna, do you think we could get this setup as a sticky for all those who are thinking about doing a swap like this?

Did I forget anything? I hope not.

 

I added it to the sticky under "drivetrain"

 

so im guessing the 205 will bolt up to the 47rh fine? same splines just different ways of sealing them?

 

yes it bolts up fine. just use some gasket sealent between the 2 or make a gasket.

 

So, lets say your putting a 47RH behind in an 89..... D350 for example. How do you go about controlling lockup and overdrive??

Reason I ask is tentativly I am stuffing Gregs old engine into my GMC, and using a 47RH for the tranny. I dont mind a toggle switch to control lockup on demand, but the convenience of having an AUTOMATIC transmission..... well its an AUTOMATIC. I was reading an article on PATC's website about the pressure switches, is that all that needs to be done? Or are we talkin sourcing a computer from a 94?

I guess my question is, how do you control lockup and overdrive without toggle switching and when no computer is present?

 

what about taking a 47rh from a 2wd and putting it in a 4wd 1st gen?? anything different?

 

A few guys on here have used the pressure switches to control both lockup and o/d... It can be done, I have my lockup on a switch and love it...

on the 2wd to 4wd, you need to change out the tailshaft on the back of the trans, Pretty sure the whole back of the trans comes right off and can be swapped to the 4wd flange style..

 

so you would need access to a 4wd trans parts to make it work.

 

yup....pretty much the whole tailshaft assy...But if you can get a 2wd trans & accessories for cheap, I wouldn't hesitate to get it... How bad to you want the tailshaft assy... I have one on the stock trans I took out, pretty sure it is the same...

 

i don't need one yet. just trying to educate myself so i don't turn something down that will work or don't buy something that will require more work and $$$ than what it is worth.

 

so do you need a PCM from a 94-95? I'd like the tranny to go into OD and lock up on its own but would also like to be able to control it.

 

The difference between the 2wd and 4wd tail housing is the housing itself and the output shaft, you need a press to take the section apart to swap the output shaft. The rest of the internals are the same.

The A518 4wd tail housing is pretty much the same as the 47RH's 4wd tail housing, in fact my one 47RH tail housings cast dates are '92. The clutch count and gears may be different internally. There's 3 different gear angles in the overdrives. Straight cut, 23* and 15*. Straight and 15* gears are good. 23* gears, throw them out and get a different set.

Simply, NO. All you need to make it work is 2 switches, one for OD and one for lockup. To make it a little more fancy you would need to use pressure switches. Set it up so you could manually control it or let the pressure switches do it.

 

Thanks Mike, thats what I needed to know. I pretty much had that figured out, I just needed some confermation.

 

Is the lockup switch a "Lockup OFF" switch, i.e. ON (locked) when grounded, and OFF (unlocked) when you push/release the switch button?

The "Overdrive OFF" switch is such: it is ON when iit is grounded/button-depressed (i.e. normally closed) and OFF when switch is open/button-released/up.