Hehehe, it is fun to make other peoples brains hurt.

I haven't really got all the details yet to give you concrete numbers. But what I am doing is putting 2 trucks, a Ramcharger and a 1 ton long box on a 36' trailer to pull say from Wisconsin to CA. The Ramchager I am guessing is in the #5000 area and the 1 ton in the #6500-7000. Figure on putting the R/C up front as it is shorted and lighter, but it will be completely in front of the trailer axle (looking at the trailers I have seen) and the 1 ton on back. The 2 together are about 35' total, so it will be tight to the front of trailer. I have the exact axle placement of both trucks to see where the point loads come down on the trailer. But I haven't actually weighed them yet to get front and rear axle weights for each vehicle, like I said I have to get all the info yet.

But as long as I will be having a trailer made I can get the trailer axles put in the right position to get the pin weight right.

Here is a picture of the 1 ton and the current hauler, can't wait for the new truck, maybe next week.....

 

Mopar Mudder I have built a lot of trailers an everyone i ever built i put the center of the axles back 60% from the front of the trailer where it starts to go up over the bed of the truck not at the kingpin. They always worked great for me

 

Mopar, boehunter is quite right 60% on a goose neck trailer for axle placement would probably work for you. The weight your describing with trailer included you will need at least a tri-axle (if they are legal there) or tandem/dual depending what else the trailer will do. If all you do is haul these vehicles with it there are ways to cheat on weight, check out the RV haulers trailers they make their trailers strong where it is needed for this purpose. I used to have a Kieferbuilt 20' with a live roll on the back and the unique single post gooseneck, this thing was indestructable. They are built in Iowa and their engineering dept. will work with you as you have weights and dimensions for them to work with, the quality is reflected in the price. PJ out of Texas is a lot cheaper but Kiefer is superior and will tour the plant with you to show how they build and finish the unit. For your purpose I would suggest a straight deck with slide in ramps as you will need full length of deck to accomodate the two vehicles. PK

 

Well, guys - - tomorrow is the day the hitch goes in. You all have been great in offering suggestions. I have not towed with a diesel or long bed - - gasser short bed with too big a trailer. <br><br>Mr. Kennedy with all his wonderful information from the big boys. Sierra with all his facts and figures (where do you come up with all this stuff, Phil?) and his practical experience. Thanks so much. <br><br>Kennedy - - you bring up one point I had not considered. I am installing a bed mounted fuel tank which will load the front (and rear) axle when full. I have a diesel so lots of weight up front. I do have long bed with duallies. I think the advice of go with the recommendations of Reese are good ones. I am going to try for an inch or two forward if it makes sense. I am using an 18K Hidden Hitch, so we are going to see how it sits over the rails. I may be just right. If I cannot get the inch, the installation indicates it will be centered. I think with the diesel, long wheel bed, extra tank and a heavy fiver, I will be good even if I can't get the extra inch or so. <br><br>Thanks again guys. As usual, marvelous pertinent information (except for a few side trips which are always fun).<br><br>FiverBob<br>ps, yes Phil, you will see a pic sooner or later with that big thingy hanging out the back of the truck. I am more anxious to see it than you are. BK

 

Here is a little more info on my trailer. It will be a tandem dually, either 20,000 or 24,000# rating. 31' deck with a 5' dove tail. Like you mensioned it will have slide in ramps as flip-ups wouldn't clear the truck.

PJ was the company I was thinking about going with. Like you said they have a good price and they also have a low profile option that I really like. Their is also a local dealer here. Their is another dealer that sells Load Warrior that I am going to check out also.

Also the most pin weight I could have would be #4000, as the truck is close to #8000 empty and GVW is #12,000

Low Profile Picture

 

Fiverbob,<br> I was thinking it would be nice to have an auxillary tank also. <br> I have looked at a few on the internet. I also looked at some locally, the ones I saw locally were storage types that were not designed to be hooked into the truck fuel system.<br> What did you decide to use for your truck?<br>

 

The 2003 long bed models QC have a 5&quot; longer wheelbase than 2002 (160.5&quot; &amp; 155&quot. The overall length of 2003 long bed QC is 249.7&quot; while the 2002 is 240.1&quot;. The rear spring on 2003 is 1&quot; longer than 2002.<br><br>Reese explicitly states that their hitch is not to be mounted for towing with kingpin behind the rear axle. When king pin is behind the rear axle it will raise the front end removing some weight from the front axle and lowering the rear end. Since the front end is now lighter on the wheels there is less steering stability. (The geometry of the front suspension is changed.) Also the braking capacity of the vehicle is reduced. (Approximately 60-70% of braking is done with front wheels.) In a panic stop mode the hitch weight hitch weight is greatly increased, further lightening the weight on the front axle. This results less stability an a time when it is needed most.<br><br>The equalizer hitch for travel trailers was developed to transfer some of hitch weight to the front axle for towing vehicles. At the same time it leveled out the tow vehicle. Anyone that can remember travel trailers being towed before equalizer hitches knows how unsafe towing was. Hitch engineers know their product. Just because a particular hitch installation has been OK in the past doesn't mean that it is safe under all circumstances. Safety of all depends on the care each has exercised in preparation for towing.

 

Phil the Reese boys do engineer a good product and made that statement as a matter of general installation and use disclaimer. However put a 135 Gal. tidy tank up against the front of the box in a reg cab pickup and surprise at 0 5th wheel setting your over weight on the front axle. That is why every truck so equipped, every trailer when loaded needs to be scaled so as to know how and where to adjust the weight. Also the statement that stopping reduces weight on the steering is either a miss statement or somebodies miss interpretation, I'll explain so as to help us all. The upper 5th pivot sits approx. 20-25&quot; above the center of the drive axle (rear axle) this produces a lever effect of say 2', give that a 8000lb push (the trailer) and yes it will push down on rear of truck but it also spike loads front axle with the leverage of the hitches 2 pivot points. Sit at a truck scale and watch when a driver puts front (steering axle) onto the scale, light comes on and he spikes brakes, steering axle will load up to and scale will register upwards of 4000lbs over momentarily. Talk nice to local boys they may be accommodating and demonstrate some of this stuff. As I was describing some of this geometry earlier today the farther the 5th wheel ahead of center the greater it is amplified, even 6&quot; behind center there still is front end loading but less than 6&quot; ahead. The rearend drops from the direct weight forward (momentum) of the trailer axles ( another fulcrum ) onto the truck again amplified the tighter the trailer brakes are set. Put 64 wheels, 2 jeeps and 3 5th wheel connections into this equation and unequal brake settings or activations and there is weight transfer going everywhere. Same thing take 28' of 8000lb trailer 13' high (stand up bedroom) on 3/4 ton 8800 lb GVW= 16800 GCW at 60mph then stand on the brakes and watch what the truck does, add 2-5 L or R turn or more, the weight will still travel in the same line forward. Two summers ago BC had RV's stop at scales and amazing survey results were discovered, they won't publish numbers but several people enjoyed weight and safety infractions. Don't want to sound like a broken record but bringing this information forward regularily hopefully will allow more people to rig up once properly in an effort to make themselves and others safe on the road. PK

 

Very good points Mr. Kennedy,
I tend to think the same way. I don't feel that a hitch manufacturer can say that there is one specific exact point to mount a hitch for every possible application. I guess the perfect situation would be an adjustable sliding fifth wheel plate and a way to move the trailer axles forward or back,,,,, HMmmm,,,,, where have I seen something like that before? ;D
I do think all of us who tow should get our rigs wieghed and I bet we may be suprised at the results. I've kept telling myself that I am going to do that, but I haven't got around to doing so yet. :
I still wonder if an inch or two, forward or back, is really going to make that big of a difference. I've had to do two panic stops with my present set-up, (one on wet road and one on dry) (GOD Bless my anti-lock brakes) and I don't believe it could have responded any better than it did. I was very well pleased and so was a gentleman in a Buick225 that was staring into his rearview mirror! I'm glad I happened to apparently come up with a good set-up on my truck,,,,, even if it was by accident. ;D