The new Reese hitch installation plates and instructions came in yesterday while I was standing at the counter in the hitch store. So, hitch goes in Friday.<br><br>My question for our illustrious panel of experts:<br> <br> The Reese instructions show the install places the king pin directly over the center of the rear axle. <br><br>I always thought it best to try and get 2 to 4 inches in front of the center of the axle. The last one - - short bed, no question. This one - - long bed. Should I accept this or insist it be in front. The install uses holes all ready existing in the frame for part of the installation. The installer wants to follow the instructions exactly.<br><br>What do I do? ??? By the way, the new plates are huge.<br><br>Bob<br><br>ps: love the Line-X coating. Put black plastic bed caps on to trim it off - - looks great with the white body. Slowly, ever so slowly coming to life.

 

Bob<br><br>I say follow the instructions. Chances are it is the only place it will fit on the frame. When I installed my 5th wheel hitch, I had to put it where it would fit. I had no choice of moving it forward or back more than maybe 1/2 inch. My hitch does allow for some forward and back adjustment after the hitch is in the truck. I had to adjust it as far forward as it would go to get in front of the axle centerline.<br><br>The idea of going forward of the axle is to transmit some of the weight to the front wheels, but it is a very small amount. I do not think you could tell the difference between driving it if the pin were located 2&quot; in front or 2&quot; in back of the axle, partly because of the weight on the front with the Diesel engine.<br><br>Consider also that the further forward the pin is, makes it harder to back because the trailer responds slower.<br><br>Just my opinions<br><br>Dan

 

FiverBob, with long bed it should be at least 2 inches forward. If it is directly over axle center, entire hitch weight is on rear axle. If it is 2 inches forward enough hitch weight is transferred to front axle to keep truck body level. Some weight must be transferred to front wheels to keep steering stability.

I would insist on 2 inches in front of axle centerline. From what I saw of Reese preliminary setup the brackets have some latitude through different sets of holes. If there is a problem Reese has a Customer Assistance # for installer to Call.

 

I just installed my gooseneck hitch and based on the predrilled holes in my frame my hitch was ahead of the Diff by 4 inches.

 

The instructions that come with the Reese hitch are clear about the consequences of not following the installation instructions. <br> I had that same question about my hitch placement.<br> After spending as much money as I have to pull my trailer properly, I decided what the heck I will follow the instructions the engineers at Reese certified.<br> FWIW Randy

 

I just check the old Reese instructions and all the pictures show the hitch frame directly above the axle.. In the text portion it states &quot;king pin should be slightly forward of the axle centerline when possible&quot;. <br><br>In checking my Reese now I discovered that if base rails are located so that axle is centered between them, king pin is located about two inches forward of the axle. They may have the two inch forward location built into the hitch head.<br><br>Valley Industries states in their instructions, &quot; On long bed pickups the hitch centerline can be up to 3&quot; ahead of the axle&quot;.<br><br>&quot;Trailer Life&quot; magazine states, &quot;the correct position the king pin is two inches forward of the rear axle&quot;.<br><br>Good Luck, FiverBob.

 

I put the B&amp;W turnoverball in my new 03 and it is about 4-6&quot; forward of axle. Really easy to install on an 03 as well.

 

As usual,,,, I'm the oddball here! But, I run the same hitch as Dan and have it slid all the way back, which puts the pin about 2&quot; behind the axle. Now I know this is not recomended, but I found this way lets my truck sit level, plus gives me a little extra room due to my shortbed. It pulls great, no pogo-ing, no sway, just real smooth. I had originally moved the hitch to this location when we were pulling our old Nomad 26' no-slide, low-top 5er because it helped bring the back of the truck down a little more for that lighter camper. It looked good when we picked up the Cougar, so I left it that way. ;D<br> This has worked fine on mine, however, I think the best place would be 2&quot; in front of the axle as the others have stated.<br><br>You can check out a pic of my rig HERE

 

As the trucks get newer and we demand a better ride the rear leaf springs have gotten longer, so what does this mean. Basically a newer model truck has the forward spring mount farther ahead on the frame, therefore in order to move 500lbs ahead to the front axle if an old truck was set at 2&quot; ahead it will take 4&quot; in a new truck to transfer ahead of that pivot point. Take into account that the instructions are for all 2500's in that model year, a diesel already has 400-600lbs preloaded onto the front axle along with the weight of the heavier front axle. In short the steering feel and stability on your diesel with a pin setting of 0 is going to feel just right without being light on the front. The same 2500 with a gas engine is going to feel light and mushy, the reverse is true of moving to much weight ahead with the diesel it will turn hard plow into the corners and stress the front ball joints. Proper method of setting pin is load everthing up and scale, with single wheels you should be within 100lbs front to back.A quad cab will not transfer weight ahead as quickly as a regular cab- frame length- Dont forget fuel tanks mounted at the front of the box eg: ( diesel 9lbs/gal. approx x 80 gals.= 720lbs). Another note 2500+3500 all have 4500lbs front axles and a good load # is 4400lbs for all round trouble free trailering and Dodges load the front axle different than Chevs/Fords because of axle position farther back on frame. Sincerely hope this clears up some fine details the instructions excluded, I realize that only those loading close to maximum will need to be more precise. PK

 

pk<br><br>I am a little confused here, I do not see how the length of the springs comes into play with regard to transferring weight to the front wheels.<br><br>The weight will be transferred depending on distance in front of the center point where the wheel touches the ground. That would be the fulcrum in this case.<br><br>If I am missing something here, please explain?<br><br>Dan

 

Dennis<br><br>Thanks for posting your results, with regard to pin position. <br><br>I have contended for a long time that pin position is not as critical as some think. I realize that the heavier your pin weight is, the more critical it becomes.<br><br>I do agree, 2&quot; in front of axle is ideal for most.<br><br>I talked to a man over in Okla., who was pulling a 30' Hitchhiker, simular to mine, with a Dodge-Cummins Quad cab and short bed. He had the hitch mounted 8 to 10 inches behind the axle. He said he could tell no ill effect from the arrangement. I feel certain that if he had a gas engine, it would not work near as well.<br><br>Now I am sure, if you drove his rig and drove my rig, you could tell a small difference. What I am contending is, it is not as much a problem as most people think. I have never talked to someone how had mounted the hitch behind the axle and had to move it because it handled so bad.<br><br>Consider also, you are still way ahead of those that are pulling a drag trailer. Their weight transfer point is measured more in feet behind the axle.<br><br>Dan

 

Dan your primary fulcrum would be the pivot point on the hitch your secondary fulcrum becomes the front spring mount, aka the longer the spring the farther ahead the front spring mount the more distance weight has to move ahead to make a differance. My 91 reg cab hitch was 1&quot; ahead of center to get 4400lbs on front axle, the 01 xtcab long box with longer springs has to be 3&quot; to 4350lbs on front axle. what you cant get on front stays at the back. When we built Kenworths on the computor we needed to know what suspension was being ordered, a double mount air ride needs at least 18&quot; 5th wheel slide where as a walking beam with single pivot only needed 12&quot; in order to transfer same amount of weight. Same principle a walking beam front mount is about 6-7&quot; farther back on the frame than the front suspension mount on a 2 point air ride therefore the need to be able to move farther up the frame to transfer same amount of weight to front axle. Anything under 10,000lbs trailing equipment on our trucks and up to1500-1800lbs hitch weight is not going to create a serious instability problem with the diesel up front. Exceeding these 2 amounts one/both creates rear squat and pull torque which signigantly reduces front axle weight giving you a sway/swing motion in the trailer or truck which will transfer back and forth on the unit. Drivers will then tend to oversteer and enhance this motion which is extremely dangerous cornering, watch a sagging overloaded 1/2 ton gasser with a 5th wheel going down the road and the drivers reaction to it. This creates a second condition called excessive driver fatigue from fighting the wheel and you will now experience line to line weave or more. Dan sorry about the lengthy detailed explanation but setting up your rig and understanding the reactions it will give you may save you or some one elses life as all this info becomes priceless if there is ever a need for evasive actions while hauling trailers. Accident investigations show all of these factors when trailers are involved in a crash or rollover= majority is inexperience, overloading and lack compliance with weight ratings tow vehicle specs, braking capabilities. PK

 

PK,<br>Great explanation of a very complex situation. I would bet that there are not too many peole out there pulling large loads that have any understanding at all of the suspension dynamics of what they are doing. Witness the half-tons (and smaller) pulling large tag-along campers and equipment trailers so unbalanced that they are spotlighting possums in the trees.<br><br>It is probably a good thing that you don't have to understand it to use it or alot of people would be walking or riding a horse (and still having problems controlling themselves).

 

Since you sounds like you know what you are talking about (or alot more then me anyways ) I thought I would ask. <br><br>Is their any fre ware programs or formulas or such for figuring loads on individual axles and pin weight for a trialer. What I am trying to do is figure the best position for the twin axles on a 36' trailer so as not to get too much pin weight when it is loaded.

 

Mopar Mudder all I was doing was trying to help out and now you want me to really start thinking. A lot of what I give to guys is from experience messing with this junk, as far as share ware or free programs I am at a loss as all the trailer building programs I've come across are pre-engineered plans at a cost. I am not an engineer so most of my stuff is borrowed from pre-existing units already built, a tape measure and notepad. However describe the exact needs and purpose and lets see what we can create, 36' of trailer is fairly serious depending on the weights to be hauled. PK