jrs_dodge_diesel

Me and my wife are looking to buy a flatbed trailer in the next few months and would like to get some opinions from y'all. We're looking for a bumper pull (we're getting a camper shell so a GN or a 5ver is out of the picture).

We're going to use it to primarily haul a second vehicle cross country (probably a full size Chevy Tahoe). I have hauled boats and several utility trailers (including a medium flatbed), so I have good experience towing. I'm looking more for getting a good proper setup.

Here's what I would like to know, along with any other opinions and advice.

1. Weight distributing hitch would be preferred correct?

2. Length? What would be an ideal length for a car hauler, 25' or so?

3. Method of loading. I have used a flatbed that pivoted in the middle for loading. Is that the better way or would ramps be better?

4. Decking. Steel deck or wood deck, which is better?

5 Axles, I assume I am looking at a tandem axle trailer huh?

6. Brakes. I would most likely need to have brakes on it right?

Anything else I should look for or be concerned with?

Thanks in advance

bamataco1

1 Yes.
2 I'm not absolutely sure but these trailers are usually a standard lenght I believe.
3 I guess this depends on what you want to spend on it. I have loaded a lot a cars just using ramps with no problems what so ever. Trailers that use ramps are much cheaper to purchase.
4 Wood deck trailers are cheaper to buy. And they weigh less that steel decked trailers. So they are cheaper to tow some what. I have a wood deck trailer & I am happy with it.
5 I wouldn't even consider a single axle trailer for hauling a car on.
6 I believe it is mandatory in most staes to have trailer brakes on a dual axle trailer. I have towed both ways though and it is definately safer to have trailer brakes.

One more thing normally when you buy a trailer most dealers quote you a price with used tires on the trailer and new tires as an option. Thought I would let you know about that. I went for the new tires myself.

Totallyrad

1) A weight distributing hitch will be required to take full advantage of the stock Dodge underbody hitch. Without weight distributing bars the maximum you can tow is 5 or 6 thousand pounds. Your Tahoe probably weighs that without the trailer. Consider a sway control, they make towing much easier.

2) If you are going to use this trailer primarily for towing the Tahoe, measure the Tahoe tip to tail and add 4 feet to allow a little wiggle room for balancing it on the trailer.

3) Ramps are OK if the deck is low enough. If the deck is too high you'll high center the underside of the Tahoe loading it. As you lower the deck, the tires and fenders of the trailer become the issue. The Tahoe is wide also and you don't want it wiggling around, beating up the the doors on the fenders of the trailer.

4) Pressure treated pine is the lightest and will give good service. After it dries a little you can paint it, a light color helps to reflect the sun, reducing heat retention and slowing the deterioration of the wood.

5) Tandem yes. I've never been a fan of the Dexter Torflex axle but I have to say I'm looking hard at them now. They allow for allot of flexibility when designing a trailer.

6) Definitely brakes and on both axles along with a quality brake controller.

7) This is strictly my opinion. Try to go with 16" tires. They offer sufficient load rating and availability. The D and E range 15" tires can be difficult to find while a 16" E range is still pretty common.

Don't neglect the rear suspension on the truck. With the weight of the shell and the trailer, the rear suspension and tires are going to get worked pretty hard. If you can, make the trailer as long as feasible so you can add storage there, removing the weight from over the truck axle.

A trailer of this type will probably weigh 3k plus, a tow dolly weighs only a fraction of that, adds almost no tongue weight, and costs about $800 stateside. The biggest drawback to them is they aren't designed for backing.

I would consider using ratchet straps and the nylon over the tire rigging like wreckers use with their under-body lifts. They offer a quick and secure way to bind your vehicle.

chaikwa

I am of the opinion that if you really NEED a weight distributing hitch, (to make hauling the trailer safe), either your trailer is too big/heavy and you should be using a gooseneck, or your truck isn't big enough. Like I said, this is just MY opinion.

A one ton dually crew cab will just about fit, (comfortably but with no room to spare), on a 20 foot long deck. 20 to 22 feet would be my choice if I were only planning to haul cars/trucks. Too much trailer, (length), just gets in the way after a while if you never use that extra length

Again, this is a personal preference issue. It IS easier to balance the load on a non-tilt trailer tho. Most tilt trailers will have their wheels farther forward on their chassis to accomodate the tilt function, and this can cause balance issues if the operator isn't careful.

Wood is good, but steel is real! Wood is easier to replace. Steel gets bowed between the cross members after awhile. Moisture also gets between the cross members and the steel deck, causing premature rusting and deck failure.

Yes.

Anything over 3500lbs GVWR needs to have brakes, and on BOTH axles. Hydraulic surge brakes are NOT legal in all states.

Get the features you want when you buy the trailer. It is way cheaper to have a trailer built the way you want it than to modify it after delivery. I would suggest LOTS of tie down points, perhaps a stake pocket and rub-rail arrangement down each side. That's the number one complaint I hear about trailers. Get a chain box or tool box built into the tongue, and make sure the tongue is long enough. I suggest 4 to 6 feet. Short tongues just .

I don't know how some of these dealers are selling trailers with used tires on them, that is an illegal practice by federal statute. I know it's happening, I just don't know HOW, so I'd be looking closely at the tires. Trailers are still being built with brakes only on one axle. This is also illegal if the GVWR is above 3500lbs.

I'd stay away from trailers that are built with square or rectangular tubing. Tubing WILL rust and rot from the inside out, and you won't know it until you end up with a hole in the frame, (or worse!). Some people will tell you this isn't an issue, but it IS and I have many recent pictures to prove it! If you're planning on keeping this trailer for more than 10 years, stay away from tube construction.

Hope this helps!

chaikwa.

htgreen3

Haven't seen these recommendations -- get a trailer with at least a 10,000 load capacity, it will weigh around 3,000, so taking inconsideration the tongue weight, you should be able to haul an 8,000 load. This will also require the larger load rated tires.

Also, look for removal fenders or at least a removal drivers side fender.

Tilt trailers are nice, but getting a vehicle up on it may require a winch if its not running, and if the deck is wet, no way.

Howy

I just wanted to add from some experince Ive had.

Wood decks are great and Ive always used boiled Linseed oil to keep them fresh. Helps keep the weight down too and is replaceable.

Steel decks suck if its a tilt and its raining or the grass is wet. You'll need to put some traction stuff or get a winch to get anything on it. I let you guess how I know why they can suck in the rain and a pair of slicks on a steel deck!

Tilts are great if they're built well. Ive seen a couple cheap ones that once the car was up in the air it was kinda wobbly and not supported too well. However, when hauling a drag car or such that sits low they're hard to beat for getting onto a trailer and cost of purchase.

As for ramps, you can always make them longer and lower the approach angle.

Well, otherwise, read the others above and you should have it.

Thats my .02

jrs_dodge_diesel

Thank you guys very much for the advice.

Anyone know what a trailer like this would cost roughly?

cLAYH

That's a lot more trailer than you need for hauling around a Tahoe.

For my lifted Jeep Cherokee I use a 16ft H&H tilt deck with 3500# axles(#7000 total). Jeep fits on it fine with room to spare and hauls just fine. I Have an 10.5ft camper in the box. A weight distribution hitch is a good idea however I don't have one nor have I ever felt that I needed one. The tilt deck is nice but ramps will work fine for you, be less work, lighter and cheaper.

My trailer is a wood deck which is is nice, stuff doesn't drop thru and I can carry any size vehicle or equipment(I also use it for my grass cutting company). A friend has an old u-haul trialer, Steel channels for the wheels and mesh every where else. Works well for hauling his CJ, thats all he uses it for, nice and light.

I paid $3500 CDN new for my H&H tilt deck. However it is a "cheap" trailer. I burnt off the crappy tires in one summer and had to replace the cheap tail lights(no vibation dampner in the fixture so the elements crapped out), replaced with LEDS.

cLAYH

Couple more thoughts, how long is the camper? With my 10.5ft I "just" clear the camper/trailer on full turns. Get a longer tongue if you have a long camper.

Avoid the removable fenders unless you have a low slung car, most SUVS are high enough that the doors will clear the fenders. My trailer came with removable fenders and after one "removed" itself on a gravel road I hard mounted them with some self tapping screws.

Get a box for your chains, boomers, tie down straps, etc. Its really nice to have a place to store them. I have an old truck box tool box mounted on the front of mine.