turbodave

Does anyone know of a kit to bolt a binkley 32k 5th wheel plate to a 05' dually without welding anything to the frame?

Dave

Patrick Campbell

You might try www.trailersaver.com but keep in mind those hitches have side/side movement. They also get downrated to like 26K GCWR because of the flimsy rails they use.

This is my home brew setup. I am not sure how you would do this with a bed though. This head should really be welded on not bolted.

http://xj.cdevco.net/auto/nobed/DSCN0695.JPG

turbodave

Did you buy that bracket kit from somebody or did you make the whole thing. That would work for me, I was thinking about using a B&W turnover ball rail kit and have someone make a center plate to either bolt or weld the the binkley head to it.

Patrick Campbell

Using the B&W kit is actually a great idea. I wish I had thought of that. You would just have to figure out how to get the vertical square tube safely attached to the bottom of the Binkley head. Then you would have the convenience of an easily removable 5th wheel and the increased weight capacity over the B&W 5th wheel.



What I used was a 3/4" thick piece of steel 8" deep (I would have used 10" just because to have it match up with the side brackets) and 3" wider than the width between the frame rails, on either side.

The side brackets are 2.5" by 2.5" x 3/8" angle iron 10" long (There is an indent in the frame to fit hitch brackets on the 2nd gen... I would guess the 3rds probably do too?).

The bolts are half inch Grade 8. McMaster.com is a good place (much cheaper than the local hardware store) for bolts. I Had metalsdepot.com cut all the metal to size for me and mail it to me. I can't remember but I think it was something like 200 dollars.

To be honest I don't know what this setup would be "rated" to. I know the Grade 8 bolts will shear at around 20,000 lbs EACH.

If you didn't use the B&W setup, with a bed you would need to figure out a way to lift the hitch plate to the height of the bed... and then figure out how the 5th wheel bottom plate would mount through the bed.

turbodave

Actually, I wanted to replace the steel plate that the removable ball fits in and replace it with a plate that would bolt or weld in its place. Then I would weld the binkley head to that. But you gave me a good idea, I will have drink a few beers think about it some more.

http://www.turnoverball.com/turnover/013.jpg

Patrick Campbell

Here are some more pics and info:

http://xj.cdevco.net/auto/hitch/

P Kennedy

On my buddy's 01 dually we made 4 custom frame mount brackets from 1/2 steel to utilize the existing 5/8-3/4" holes in the frame from the factory. Then I slide a piece of 4" strapping 1/2" thick in under the p/u bed cut to the length the width of the frame plus 1", before I weld them into place we decide which bed rib depressions to put the mount bolts through. Drill 3/4" holes in the right place in the fabbed crossmember and then weld a nut under each one 5/8" course thread. Put the fabbed crossmember in place and weld to the tightened vertical frame brackets. Once this is in place you can put in a plate or high mount to bolt to, when you need the hitch out pull the 4 5/8" bolts remove hitch put the bolts in the holes with coppercote to keep the threads clean. This way all that is in your box with the hitch out is 4 hex head bolt heads. I built his on a piece of KW 10" steel frame section to match the height of a RV hitch (50" from road surface) which allows him more room besides the hitch between the fenderwells than a standard RV hitch mount. The frame depressions at the back of the frame take 2 washers for shims to make the mounts square with the front of the frame. His first complaint was it is heavier than his old hitch so I suggested when you want the hitch out just leave attached to the trailer and take the bolts out. Raise the trailer high enough to clear the back of the p/u box and drive away-no lifting. To put it back in, back under the trailer until hitch is over the back end of box, pull the pin and slide into place then bolt her down, load and go. We also make our own upper 5th pin boxes with "buck plates" that have the taper on the front to load easier, use 12" slider disc and high pressure spray grease on the jaws- always hooks up and never binds. PK

rockhound

The 05 has a completely tubular hydroformed frame you won't be able to bolt through it like that. it will void your warranty one and crush the frame if you do

your side bracket setup only works on the older c channnel frames

sweet hitch though

05 requires a c clamp style bracket system that doesn't go through the frame most of the hitch companies make them now

P Kennedy

OK my mistake did not see the 05 on his sig however the bracket they use to mount to the tinfoil super frame surely would be adaptable to the whatever is in the box like they did. Just a quick note Chevy also uses the same style hydro formed frame except on their cab and chassis, hazard to guess why it is a C channel behind the cab???? If they can mount something and have it meet frame standards so can we. PK