I am looking at buying one of these. Is this a worthwile purchase for a (other than slid stock plate) truck.

 

anyone.....

 

if i was you i would just block the wastegate completely you arent pushing enough fuel right now to worry about over boosting the turbo. if you stii really want one i'll sell you mine for $20

 

Yes, sliding the stock plate forward won't get you into the boost high enough to need the elbow yet. When you get the fuel plate, you usually get the elbow with it.

When I slid the stock plate, I just picked up a heater hose pinch kit. It came with 2 hose pinch clamps and was about $10. Just pinched the line until I got the plate.

 

I personally won't bother with the elbow. I put one on my truck and ended up taking it off and and just disabled the waste gate by pluging the line. Now I have less lag off the line, more top end, and boost hasn't gone over 27#.

 

The boost eblow idea is a joke anyways. It has a bleed off, don't like that. take it off and plug the line or if you want the wast gate buy a different one that is more adjustable. I changed my with shimming the back side with washers.

 

took your guys' advice and went out today, cut the hose from the wastegate, well the rubber part near the valve cover and put some screws in it. Didn't notice a difference though

 

wastegate adjustments won't affect low end at all. The gate only opens when its boost set point is crossed and bypasses exhaust as necessary....and this will be at higher rpm. For low end improvement, richen up the preboost fuel by adjusting the AFC position for course adjustments and the star wheel for finer tuning. With a free flowing intake and exhaust this will usually start the turbo spool a little sooner as heat energy is up fom the fuel richening. As for blocking the wastegate be careful. As soon as your boost fuel curve supplies enough to exceed +/- 34 psi, drive pressures climb because of the small turbine housing, as well as excessive turbo RPM and too hot an intake charge. All of which increase EGT's. I didn't notice in your sig if you have gauges....at least boost and pyro. No mods should be made at all until you spend the $250 for instrumentation. There's no way of measuring your tuning adjustments without them and EGT's will burn down the house in a hurry if left unchecked.

if you want power you're not going to get it till you ramp up the fuel, which in turn raises boost relatively. You'd be surprised how these P pumped motors respond to sliding forward the stock plate. After you do that, THEN adjust the turbo pressure to suit. You can make a simple boost controller with a $5 saddle valve and tee from a hardware store. Don't worry about bleed off either, the volume of air being bled is miniscule and will absoltuely make no difference anyway. And make sure your plate adjustment doesn't let the governor arm dive beneath it. It's easier to back the plate off from full forward until the arm doesn't dive under it, than to re-adjust the gov arm for a beginner. Besides, full forward doesn't mean best performance anyway. Just remember without added heat energy, you won't make more boost, and more power.

My .02..good luck