nascar-co

I'm getting ready to make the move from stock to mild rock and would like any sugestions.
My 2002 3/4 LWB, Tow, Snow Plow Prep, 6sp - power wise is stock with only some cosmetic add ons.
Stainless Side steps, Jason Shell, KC Day Lighters, Marine Carpet Bed Liner and Lund wind defletor.
I will be pulling 5er 10,000 lbs plus 19.5ft boat about 2100 lbs.
My list includes:
Pacbrake or BD Exahaust Brake
4" Stainless, muffler delete (T-304 not T-409)
Dipricol Gauges Pyrometer, Fuel Pressure, and Boost
A Piller mount with Speaker
Comp Hot box or Comp Stock or Edge EZ ??
Total cost around 2200 to 2400
Really like the looks of the stainless duals but 1300 is a little much!
Most parts I found at dpp and haven't found them less expensive else where

Forrest Nearing

sounds good, but I would go w/ Autometer gauges... higher quality, competatively priced, etc.

also, if I had a 24v that I was planning on modding, some sort of aftermarket lift pump setup would be high on the list.

oh, and you might want to buy some sound deadener for the cab once the straight pipe goes on

Forrest

LongBlackRam

nascar-co,

Welcome to the DTR!

You are planning on pulling with a HO. My research suggest the best way to go is to start with gauges. Then larger injectors such as RV275's or DDII's (or others ) with either a boost fooler, DD TTPM or DD UPM. The TTPM & UPM are Edge EZ & Edge Comp custom made for Diesel Dynamics with slightly altered timing. This favors the HO with its higher compression. Breathing mods will help with the egt's, if needed.

Anyhow that's my .02 and the direction I'm headed with my HO.

LBR

Wilson

I agree with the aftermarket fuel supply idea. The wildcat maxflow system is pretty reasonable and also Ryan has a kit in the classifieds that I have heard good things about. I would start there. Good luck

Forrest Nearing

man, even a cheap Holley or Summit pump feeding the stock lift pump... what's $100-200 to protect a $1500 injection pump?

if you're lucky you catch a failing lift pump and replace it before it damages the injection pump, but when are you gonna catch it? on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere?

I see the 24v lift pump issue the same way I see the KDP on the 12v trucks... something that'll cost you a little bit now or possibly a LOT later... as SOON as you get the truck, nip the problem in the bud!!!!

Forrest

Dr. Evil

Id suggest a FASS - if your gonna pull heavy or bomb, its extremely important to keep the VP-44 as cool as possible.

nascar-co

Thanks,
Thats the reason for posting is to get others experience so $$$ mistakes can be avoided.
I am glad my wife likes the truck as well as I do it makes it easier to get more $$ from the boss.
I will start checking out the lift pumps etc.
I'll look more at the gauge packages and give the injectors a look as well.
Normaly I found for only 10% more you can get top of the line and I don't think I want to skip on any parts in the heart of the beast.

nascar-co

Well it's been a couple weeks now and I have decided to start with the gauges. Changed my mind and deceided to go with ISSPRO-EV Pyrometer R3607VW with the color coding, Fuel Pressure R5604, Boost R5623R.
Going to get the A piller 3 gauge Plus Speaker
Total cost about 330.00.
The next step is to get the gauges in and I am scheduled for a Dyno test next week. I'll post the results. The test will be stock but I wanted the Gauges so I could see the baseline before performance mods.
My mods after the test will include Jake Exhaust Brake, 4" Exhaust, Cold Air box, and an Ez Comp.
I intend to re-dyno befor the Ez Comp is on with only the other Mods and check the results against the baseline.
Then with the EZ. Dyno only costs 75.00 locally for 1hr so I think it's worth the cost.

Forrest

Something to consider ... on the exhaust brake. I had one, it came with the truck.

I didn't use it that often. Just didn't need it. I tow a 27' 5th wheel, about 7k-lbs. I used it going down into Death Valley, where you go from over 4k' to -170' in a hurry. Pretty severe. Without the brake, I would have had it in a slower gear.

I live right up against the Sierra Nv range & never used it up there. When I changed out to a bigger turbo, & therefore the 4" downpipe, away went the exhaust brake.

I've got a manual tranny & 3:54 gears, which might differ from yours. If you're not set on the exhaust brake, consider applying the $ to fuel & air enhancements.

My $.02 worth.

RowJ

OR a down line exhaust brake so you can upgrade your turbo in the future, which a Comp box will require if you want to play hard!
RJ

nascar-co

I'll Keep that in mind but my 5er is about 11,000 and with the boat it adds another 2400. I would rather use a diffrent brake but Jake is the only one that Dodge won't give you a bad time with warranty.
I don't like the idea of adding the vacuum pump but what can you do?
It would be diffrent if the warranty wasn't 100,000 plus I have an extra one on the Engine from Cummins up to 250,000
At least the Ez can be removed before service.
I don't plan on using the high settings on the EZ