Has anyone installed a remote start on a 98 12v? I was curious how difficult it was, or if it was possible? thanks

 

viper has one for a diesel. buy it at circuit city and they install it for free

 

what about a 01 24 valve?? how much are they? would be great in the winter time

 

bought one for my girl (code blue i think) and she loves it. had trouble at first but at MOTHERS WINDOW TINT in Austin they have a lifetime warranty. she took it in and they fixed it for free. it's sweet, kinda wish i had an auto.

 

Hey,

I just recently installed a Code Alarm CA670 in my truck. It was a huge pain at the time, but in retrospect not much worse than any other remote start I've done. The Code was nice because it has the "wait to start" wire, and a two way LCD remote. It also has a pretty sleek remote with without the LCD. If you want to do it yourself, I'd say go with the Code. They can be had off Ebay for around $150. Also, Code is the only company I know of that offers a lifetime warranty to self installers. Alright, enough with plug for Code.

If you would like it, I have tons of information on the 2001 wiring and the Code.

Sean

 

I'm having one installed tomorrow at CarToys. I called to check stock on the Viper and they asked if I wanted an alarm or just the remote start. I just wanted the RS so they recommended the DEI 561R. It is diesel compatable and is $159.00 INSTALLED. I am coughing up the extra $60 to have my factory keyless entry added to the system. It is made by Python I believe. It has a turbo cooldown timer as well as valet mode that lets you keep the truck running to run into the store and take the keys with you. Has more options but I won't list all here. Just do a search on DEI 561R and you find it. The other units I have checked had a "wait to start" timer of 10, 20 or 30 seconds. This one can be wired so that it works off of the factory WTS light.
My truck is at the dealer now getting flashed for the idle up TSB as well as a couple of others I want put on. The remote start will be a nice addition to the high idle.

 

I bought This one (same as fade94) from Circuit City but havent had a chance to install it. Still need to pick up a diode and then I should be ready. Got it as it gives me remote start and keyless entry plus it was inexpensive.

 

I really don't want to get into a debate here, but most "name brand" remote start systems have a "wait to start" or "glow plug" wire. My system starts cranking the second the WTS light goes out. You might want to take a look at crank times though. You will find that the default 1 second time is not sufficient in colder weather when you don't have your truck plugged in. I have mine set for 3, but I can change it to tach sense. Tach sense would be kind of dangerous if the engine doesn't catch and fire after 3 seconds (it would just continue to crank until the truck started). There are a few other things you have to consider in the way of options as far as starting a diesel versus a gas engine, but being an owner you already understand this. $159 for an installed starter is decent. Just make sure the guys doing the install are familiar with diesels. I thin you've made a good choie with the DEI unit. When it comes to high end car security the only thing you have to know is "Directed". What I was talking about was an alarm and remote start combo. The features available are incredible...

I have mine set up to...
Operate my foglights
Operate my backup lights
Turn on my heated mirrors
Roll up the windows when you lock the doors
*My personal favorite - I can turn up the idle by remote. (more details in the 'APPS High Idler' thread )

It's all what you want to do, and how much you have spend. I saved a lot on the install by doing it myself, but it also took me 10 hours (I'm kind of picky about wiring).

Frosty, When you go to hook up the locks remember...
That truck uses a modified 5-wire system. The lock take a positive trigger and the unlock takes a polarity reversal. It's a hard concept to grasp if you haven't played around with it.

Ok, I've rambled on long enough... It's hard to make a bad choice with an alarm or RS, as long as it isn't a gray market device.

Good Luck

Sean

 

I know whith my Viper there is a certain sequence to hit the buttons for the diesel's...then it lets the heat grid do its job.

 

No we dont!! are you kidding? It starts at 100 and goes to 160

 

Pretty easy if you have basic know how of the 12volt and pals like me, should be a breeze. I'll pm you the diagram.

 

Thats a good one, easy to program and easy to install, allin one small package.

 

Thanks AAmeeting that should help a lot!

 

Ok so this hasnt been high on my list of things to get done until now. One source of confusion is the door locks. I assume I need to wire it up like this diagram (5 Wire Alternating 12 Volts Positive Door Locks) http://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#5w
I know where the wires are in the kick panel. PO must have had an alarm system or keyless entry which explains all the hacked wiring and patch work. Didnt know what it was for until today. Most everything has had T connectors or butt connectors on it so its been easy to find.

This is what I have so far. Some things I am not sure on or assume I dont need.

Primary harness (H1) wiring diagram
Light Green/Black - Factory Disarm - Not used
Green/White - Factory Arm - Not used
Yellow - Ignition out to alarm - Not used
White/Blue - (-) Activation input - Not used
Gray/Black - Wait to Start - To Orange/Black at back of wait to start bulb
White/Red - (+) Activation input - Not used
Red/White - Channel 2 validity - Not used
Black - Ground - Grounded
White - (+/-) Light Flash - Via relay and (+) 12V constant fused

4-pin Satellite harness
Blue - Not used
Orange - Not used
Purple - Not used
Pink - Not used

Heavy gauge relay satellite wiring diagram
Pink - (+) 30 AMP Output to Ignition - Dark Blue at ignition harness
Purple - (+) 30 AMP Output to Starter - Blue/Yellow at ignition harness
Orange - (+) 30 AMP Output to Accessory - Black/Orange at ignition harness
Red - (+) High Current 12V Input - Red at ignition harness
Pink/White - (+) Programable Output for Accessory or Ignition - Black/White at ignition harness
Red - (+) 30 AMP High Current 12V Input - Pink/Black at ignition harness

Door lock harness, 3-pin connector
Green - (-) Lock (+) Unlock output
Empty - Not used
Blue - (+) Lock (-) Unlock output

Edit: see post below for lock wiring.

Remote start harness
Black/White - (-) Neutral Safety switch - Ground
Violet/White - Tach input - Gray/Light Blue in wiring harness not Gray/Black.
Brown - Brake Switch shutdown - White/Brown at brake pedal switch
Gray - (-) Hood Pin Switch - I assume grounded
Blue/White - (-) 200 mA 2nd Status/Rear Defogger - Not used

 

Ok, this is an update and what I have so far. I really hate wiring with a passion and realize now why its taken me this long to install.

Doors lock/unlock and truck starts but I still need to wire in the wait to start light. I read it wrong the first time and used a relay instead of diode.

I used two relays and wired them in this setup. Took blowing a 40 amp fuse at the PDC to stop and think about how the switch side and motor side worked. Once I did that and tested it with the meter things went much smoother.

86 12v fused
87 12v fused
87a Orange/Purple switch side (sees 12v + when locking master switch)
30 Motor side
85 Lock (-) from remote start

Do the same for unlock using Pink/Purple (sees 12v + when unlocking master switch)


Couple issues.
1. Parking lights dont flash when I lock/unlock or start the truck.
2. Sounds like starter is running for a little bit after the truck starts. I have done the tach learn and figured that should stop it but it hasnt. Any suggestions? Anyone running a DEI 454T tach signal generator on a 12V truck? I just read that it might be needed as the 12V dont reliably generate a tach signal.
3. Need to get a diode to wire up the wait to start light.
4. I assume if the Neutral safety switch isnt grounded the truck shouldnt start? If I wire up the On/Off toggle switch it came with will that allow me to shut off the ability to use the remote start but keep the door lock/unlock?