Racing VS Towing
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Racing VS Towing
I see alot of guys talking about off the line accelerations and racing speeds, but do the mods they use work for pure pulling torque.
I am interested in torque not top end or top speed.
So should I follow the usual
1. Big injectors
2. Delivery Valves
3. Timing
I just like to pull not race
I was looking at delivery valves , do they do much?
Thanks any tips or direction
I am interested in torque not top end or top speed.
So should I follow the usual
1. Big injectors
2. Delivery Valves
3. Timing
I just like to pull not race
I was looking at delivery valves , do they do much?
Thanks any tips or direction
Power mods for racing are not the same for racing as for towing. If you read about what EGT's these guys see while racing is crazy. *1500+ EGT's but only for short bursts. If you ran like that while pulling a hill with a trailer you probably wouldnt make it to the top. *1300 EGT's is the MOST you want to get to while towing.
They do, but they make your EGT's really tough to manage. If your getting into bigger injectors and delivery valves, then your gonna need a larger turbo in addition to the BHAF and larger exhaust.
A better option for towing would be plate (if too much fuel/to high of temps you can back off the plate), a boost elbow, and a GSK is a must, as well as better breathing. Maybe a milder set of injectors like 215's, but 370's will probably be too hot.
Just do a search on high egt's and you will the see the combo's to stay away from. Kevin
A better option for towing would be plate (if too much fuel/to high of temps you can back off the plate), a boost elbow, and a GSK is a must, as well as better breathing. Maybe a milder set of injectors like 215's, but 370's will probably be too hot.
Just do a search on high egt's and you will the see the combo's to stay away from. Kevin
Best bet for towing in your case is just a GSK and #10 plate. Hook up your trailer and figure out where to set the plate. A little to the rear of the stock position will probably be best. A larger turbo housing will get you up the hills a little faster before high egts hit. Skip the injectors, you'll be able to get up to the max egts just fine with a #10.
Also, if the truck has the 215hp pump, it has 181 dv's already...........you will need an egt gauge for sure if you want to run a #10 plate on a 215 pump........depending on how heavy you are towing, you may find that you will be pulling the #10 back slightly from the stock position on the 215 pump to keep the egt's in check..........get a full 4" exhaust and a
Scotty II and you will be good to go.......... the truck will be a towing monster
Then start saving for your Southbend Clutch - the stocker won't last long towing with that set up!
Scotty II and you will be good to go.......... the truck will be a towing monster

Then start saving for your Southbend Clutch - the stocker won't last long towing with that set up!
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Cumminatya,
I am building something like that for my Dad, I have the 4" turbo back, the AFE intake, the AFC spring kit, some tranny work, and a #6 Plate. This truck tows a 17,500 trailer. Set up like above it is UNSTOPPABLE on any grade at 75-80 MPH. BUT the EGT's get too hot!!
Like 1500* hot. I just added a 14cm2 housing and the 3GSK. The housing took too much "PEP" out of the truck for normal driving unless you get the RPM's up to 2700.
I am thinking about going back to my 12cm2 housing and going with a #10 plate, or possibly grinding my own.
The truck is a 96 3500 4X4 with the Auto and 4.10's.
Good luck.
I am building something like that for my Dad, I have the 4" turbo back, the AFE intake, the AFC spring kit, some tranny work, and a #6 Plate. This truck tows a 17,500 trailer. Set up like above it is UNSTOPPABLE on any grade at 75-80 MPH. BUT the EGT's get too hot!!
Like 1500* hot. I just added a 14cm2 housing and the 3GSK. The housing took too much "PEP" out of the truck for normal driving unless you get the RPM's up to 2700.I am thinking about going back to my 12cm2 housing and going with a #10 plate, or possibly grinding my own.
The truck is a 96 3500 4X4 with the Auto and 4.10's.
Good luck.
i tow all the time, #100 plate, 370s and the timing is at 16 i have a hx 35 with a 14cm exhausing. i can melt the motor but only if i have my head up my a**. i just keep my foot out of it. it pulls 30k gross no problem. you are what controls the fuel, if it is hot, back off till you crest the hill. i find when i am running 60 or so it is never a problem.unless i get the revs down too low.
same here, tho I only tow 20K 10 miles at a time and only one short 6% and not everyday, I have no problem. The GSK will let you keep the R's up and the air moving through the motor to keep everything cool yet let you command a decent speed in 1:1 gear. And heat kills a lot faster the RPM's. That said.....notice I run 167's and stock 160 injectors for the moment. My success will change when there's more BTU's to be had. In the end though, with a good pyro and boost gauge, you can control alot of variables with the big 'ol fat right foot, providing you don't have SOOO much fuel that throttle angle is decreased so much that speed is sacrificed.
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