Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for second generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories.

quick tranny question

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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 05:41 PM
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quick tranny/injector question

So just got a set of 330 injectors from another DTR member and I wodered what you guys think if the injectors will totally trash my trans or if I can get away with it for a few months cause I really want to put them in but I don't want to trash my trans but I really want to play with them, I just wont have the cash to do my trans for about 3 or 4 months, its for the truck in my sig by the way. Thanks guys just let me know im pretty excited.

Chris
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 06:39 PM
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Man, if you are going to put a goerend transmission in spring time I would go ahead an put them in. I know I have a different trans, but I had twins and smarty for 2 years before I installed the goerend. I didnt beat on it all of the time either.
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 07:10 PM
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wow thats pretty cool i really want to put them in and the PO had a brand new (stock) Torque converter put in right before i bought it so the dang converter has only like 2.5k on it. so i assume it will prob hold to some beating for at least a few months and im not going to drive it like its nascar lol i just want to know that im not gonna really screw it up before i start my trans build you know?.
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Old Feb 25, 2011 | 09:04 AM
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so does anyone else have any thoughts on this?
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Old Feb 27, 2011 | 04:55 AM
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Originally Posted by firgod4
so does anyone else have any thoughts on this?
You alone control the accelerator pedal, so no, adding injectors will not "trash" your transmission. A heavy right foot will trash the transmission.
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Old Feb 27, 2011 | 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Big Blue24
You alone control the accelerator pedal, so no, adding injectors will not "trash" your transmission. A heavy right foot will trash the transmission.
Not true!

The position of the go pedal is adjusting the line pressure of the transmission. That way it shifts soft under low throttle, and hard under WOT. Anything you do to add torque will decrease the throttle opening while daily driving, but also reduce line pressure. If you get enough torque you can overpower the tranny even with just a little go pedal. That's why it is very important to at least adjust the valve body or install a shift kit (does the same) to have enough pressure under light throttle with a modified engine.
If you don't do it you will have slippage, and the friction material goes through the bearings etc in your tranny, and you will contaminate the ATF cooler and the ATF-coolant heat exchanger. So IMO it's better to do the transmission mods first, and then the good stuff that gives you low end grunt.
Just my 2c

AlpineRAM
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Old Feb 27, 2011 | 05:58 PM
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It takes all of 10 seconds to tighten the TV cable under the hood if you're worried about the throttle valve settings and want it to raise pressure with less accelerator pedal.
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Old Feb 27, 2011 | 11:13 PM
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So how do I adjust the tv cable? And if I do tht will that save my trans for a little while? Before I am able to afford to do the transmissio
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Old Feb 28, 2011 | 01:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Big Blue24
It takes all of 10 seconds to tighten the TV cable under the hood if you're worried about the throttle valve settings and want it to raise pressure with less accelerator pedal.
Where do you like your shift points?

Just 10 seconds... well yes, but think a little about the consequences before you give an advice that can render a truck undriveable or ruin a transmission.
I have seen quite a few transmissions that needed a rebuild due to TV-cable being out of whack. Some burnt ones due to the "more power, nothing will happen short term if I take it easy etc" thinking.
"Why do we never have the time and money to do it right the first time, but always have the $$ to repair what we messed up before? "

Just my 2c

AlpineRAM
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Old Feb 28, 2011 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by AlpineRAM
Where do you like your shift points?

Just 10 seconds... well yes, but think a little about the consequences before you give an advice that can render a truck undriveable or ruin a transmission.
I have seen quite a few transmissions that needed a rebuild due to TV-cable being out of whack. Some burnt ones due to the "more power, nothing will happen short term if I take it easy etc" thinking.
"Why do we never have the time and money to do it right the first time, but always have the $$ to repair what we messed up before? "

Just my 2c

AlpineRAM
so what your saying is i should just leave it and not put on my new injectors untill i do my transmission?
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 02:23 AM
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Originally Posted by AlpineRAM
Where do you like your shift points?

Just 10 seconds... well yes, but think a little about the consequences before you give an advice that can render a truck undriveable or ruin a transmission.
I have seen quite a few transmissions that needed a rebuild due to TV-cable being out of whack. Some burnt ones due to the "more power, nothing will happen short term if I take it easy etc" thinking.
"Why do we never have the time and money to do it right the first time, but always have the $$ to repair what we messed up before? "

Just my 2c

AlpineRAM

I adjust my set points differently depending on the truck. My 95' Junker Race truck has the TV lever wired WOT. No use for a TV lever on a full race truck, it would be best to have a full manual valvebody but for now the WOT setting is shifting the 47rh transmission right around 2600 rpm if I ease into it, when I'm racing, it shifts closer to 2800 rpm because the motor revs faster than it can shift.

On my 98' with 47re transmission, I use a TV cable and it shifts anywhere from 1500 rpm to 2700 rpm depending on throttle position. If you drop the pan, it is easy to adjust the minimum throttle valve setting which helps maintain more pressure when putting around at low RPM.
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 03:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Big Blue24
I adjust my set points differently depending on the truck. My 95' Junker Race truck has the TV lever wired WOT. No use for a TV lever on a full race truck, it would be best to have a full manual valvebody but for now the WOT setting is shifting the 47rh transmission right around 2600 rpm if I ease into it, when I'm racing, it shifts closer to 2800 rpm because the motor revs faster than it can shift.

On my 98' with 47re transmission, I use a TV cable and it shifts anywhere from 1500 rpm to 2700 rpm depending on throttle position. If you drop the pan, it is easy to adjust the minimum throttle valve setting which helps maintain more pressure when putting around at low RPM.
Well, now we are getting somewhere. I think that your junk race truck would not be a nice daily driver.
My suggestion still is to address the transmission first, simply because burning it up makes the costs for a rebuild go up unnecessarily and the OP seems to be in a situation where he can't afford a tranny rebuild right now. So I advise caution, because being broken down on the side of the road with a smoking tranny does not seem in the best interest of the OP.

I am not informed about the 12V, but what would be the consensus about the stock turbo with the 330 injectors? I fear that this could get mighty toasty. (and another expensive experience)

Just my 2c

AlpineRAM
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