i was given the wrong lines the first time. I am using ths small stock size lines. My plate is a hand ground one that Piers made. I am running a 350cc pump timed at 16 deg. I started with 275's then Jammer 1's, then Jammer 2's. Jammer 1's give good fuel economy and I was able to make just over 500 hp with them. Jammer 2's will smoke a little when you start stepping on the pedal. I have some Scheid Lightning (97hp) injectors i haven't tried yet, and a set of larger injectors that are for a p-pump converted motor. I started with a 35/12 and then a Dodgezilla/14. Then i went to PDR towing twins. Then I swapped the DZ for a Bell WSB in the twins setup. I am working on a setup with the WSB and a .7 housing with a Small S400 on the bottom for a daily driver and the WSB with the larger exhaust housing with a full B2 on the bottom for an occasional play setup.

 

nope that is no joke ..thats how long it took ......to swap vp44 for new (reman)vp44......not the p-pump coversion ...... iwas just poking fun at the people who have vp's and there seemingly endless ablity
to break and need replacing with another... and thats were i come in , " hey , i can fix that for ya , it won't take me very long"

as for the other guys , GEAR CASE ; you just need to order 12v gear case that is the best route, it involves pulling either cam gear off or the cam out

BTW contrary to popular gossip you can keep , tach; cruise control with this modification...as long as you don't go on some off the wall wire cutting frenzy and keep your TPS assy. ( to much to explain in here , contact me for details)

 

everything works as Travis says, My truck did not have the crank sensor so I had to put the cam sensor in the new case, I already had the special case anyhow. My truck idles fine with both the big pulling injectors and the stock ones I tried. The injector lines I got from Haisley make the airhorn go up about the thickness of the grid heater, they now have and sell the riser with the lines for a package deal. Once I get the pump back I will again love to drive my truck. I can't wait

 

Unfortunately I'm about 1,300 miles from my Cummins or I would mock it up and see what fits and what doesn't fit. I won't be home until Dec. 22nd. Wednesday someone from Scheid's told me the 12V front cover had to be modified to bolt to the 24V but he wouldn't say what was modified. I have a complete '96 Cummins that I'm going to pull my P-pump parts from. Is there a clearance issue with something from the 12V cover that keeps it from bolting to the 24V?

 

Awesome. So far what has been your favorite combination that was a compromise between power, drivability and economy? Any suggestions? BTW, my Ford has a ZF-6 manual trans. Right now the limiting factor will be the clutch. It survived many, many 1.9x sixty foots at the track, but I believe the extra couple hundred pounds of torque from a Cummins won't take long to kill it.

 

The cover bolts right on it is just if you need the cam sensor hole

 

So its possable to drill the hole in the24V?

 

If you seen one a good fab guy could make one no problem

 

depending on the year of your truck you may or may not even need the the cam sensor ---- if you have a crank sensor ,you DO NOT need the cam sensor, as the crank feeds tach signal . the crank sensor is directly between the starter and the block ( it's tough to see)
so on some app's there is no mod's that need to be done on the case that i am aware of , just put a cover plate over the hole were the cam timing pin went in the 12v case ( this is the same hole that needs to be used for cam sensor if you DON'T have crank sensor, and is were mod's would take place on certain trucks )

 

i love my conversion i went though vp failures and wanted it to be a little more streetable so i did it i did some trading and had the engine ou anyhow any question im me and i try to help ( by the way injector pop off is not an issue)

 

hmmmmm... think i have learned the answer to this over the past 2 years since i first started this thread...

1- the vp44 does not like our dry EPA kosher diesel, it likes what it was designed for ,diesel in europe.. a bit more oil in it over there ( or was any how)

2 its a thing called "engineered wear" when a part or a machine(eg car) is built too well and lasted to long , it actually costs the manufacturer money ,in the long run ...because , if it dont break ......you won't buy a new one , no matter the brand . so they design flaws in to the machine that will break/wear out at a predetermined time. this sounds like crap , but it is a widely used technique in large scale manufacture , the old adage stands true..." They just don't make'm like they used to"

the p7100 is considered a " lifer " pump, lasting on norm more than one engine rebuild (500,000++)

the vp44 life expectancy is 200,000 , if you get more than that you are above the norm

so basically the 12v lasted to long and they put a POS pump on it in the name of "EPA emissions and fuel economy" and we all know how the fuel economy deal went .. and the vp44 turned out to be a bit bigger POS than they bargained for

this is some honest info from a person at Bosch that i got on one of my many ranting calls to them and a friend that is a retired engineer/designer from GM


you may not agree with this but you can have it as food for thought

 

Hey Jetpilot, want to try and answer any of my questions from the earlier post?

I'm still wondering why you're discouraging people from swapping the inline pump onto their 24V's.

 

I have done the conversion and it mades tons of power. There are many reasons not to recommend it but only a couple as to why and do it. First lets start with the pro's:

Pump longevity: the pump if put together correct will last for 400-500K miles.
Max HP: The p-pump if turned up will supply a lot more fuel than our current VP pumps. But this being said the VP is well over 800RWHP now and approaching 900RWHP this is putting it in line with other street driven p-pumped trucks as far as max HP.

And now for the con's:

Static timing
worse driveability
custom parts
dollars for the conversion
mechanic who can work on the truck
did I mention driveability

Why do a conversion when you could just do an engine swap, use a complete 12v motor with off the shelf parts and make more power? It would be a ton cheaper, simpler, and would run better.....

Doug

 

Even with the dyno numbers the P-Pump still rules for Sledpulling and competition purposes. I agree the VP is getting close but the raw fueled rpms are not there from the VP (even @4k)

 

Well for sledpulling right now you are correct. But I would be willing to bet this summer folks will be pretty surprised at what a couple vp trucks do, especially the ones at the dragstrip. But the questions were based on doing a p-pump conversion to a 24v and what I was trying to say was that the 12v will make as much or more HP than a p-pumped 24v.