1trick4u

Ive done some searching and already come up with the following:

1)right amount of fuel must be present
2)studs and o-rings will be needed in the near future
3)make sure no to over boost

What im wondering is about the kit itself.Can I just put a solenoid and nozzle at the end of a feed line or do I have to get a dry n2o regulator??I ASSume I dont have to have it because there is no way to ramp up fuel pressure like there is with a gasser right?

Please enlighten me

banshee

All you really need is a bottle w/ heater, a solenoid, a nozzle, and lines to connect it all. Run the nozzle into the airstream somewhere and you're good to go. You can either use a dry nozzle (only 1 port) or a standard wet nozzle and just cap off the fuel side (or run nitrous through both sides). To control the solenoid you can use a toggle switch (on/off), WOT switch, hobbs switch, push button (fast and furious!), progressive controller, etc.... You don't need any special parts to run it.

John

1trick4u

Thanks!!Ive got everything laying around but the nozzle,switch's and relays so im gonna go for it.Just a 30 shot for now though!

Jetpilot

Running nitrous is not too hard but it should be setup correctly. As banshee stated there are numerous ways to hook it up. I personally do not like a switch that you just push to turn it on/off. I have seen the effects of spraying nitrous into an engine too early or not letting off the switch soon enough, and its not pretty. Normally I use 25 psi to activate the system.

Use some form of a pressure switch in the system to activate it, using this in conjuction with a WOT switch is really one of the best options. The progressive controller is really nice as it helps to not shock the engine and helps keep things together.

As you mentioned your headgasket will not like nitrous..... I recommend going ahead and installing o-rings and studs. This is really the only way to try and make your engine reliable.

Doug

1trick4u

How many labor hours to R&R the head?I dont have time to do the work myself So id basically need to budget for the following:

1)o-rings and studs:$700
2)HG:which one and how much?
3)labor hours to R&R head:how much?
4)springs:should I do these while im at it?im not going to upgrade cams unless my stocker gives me problems,if I need to upgrade,which one and how much?

Im not going to use anymore than a 50 shot.Really....I already have a race car but n20 is cheap and it works.

And I prefer WOT micro switch.Ive never seen ANY engine damage from hitting n20 1st thing as long as youre a WOT.I dont care for buttons because when I was 16,I blew up my 1st car with one(shifted from 2nd to 1st WOT and stayed on the button in the exitement)

WideOpenThrottl

Banshee,
Does it matter where you put the nozzle? is there a benifit to going pre-aftercooler, after the aftercooler better?
Where can the psi switches to activate it be bought at?
Thanks,
Tim.

1trick4u

Im going to put it in the intake (where most put there boost gauge)ATS intake manifold actually has a hole already tapped for it(im gonna go with an ATS)

The psi switchs are called HOBBS switchs and you can buy them at MANY places online.Do a google search.

Mike D

I think some are spraying before and after.

apwatson50

I would use a master control switch wired through a pressure and a WOT switch. That way you make sure that your actually making boost while at WOT. Still wouldn't be too hard to do this. I'd like to do this but with water/meth or propane, probably just water. Also i'm just going to do the hobbs/pressure switch.

WideOpenThrottl

Thanks, for the info guys,
Tim.

banshee

WOT,

You can do either or both. There are some advantages and disadvantages to running the nozzle(s) into the different areas. Most seem to run it into the intake horn for simplicity.

The easiest way to wire it up IMO is to use your different switches to turn on/off the "trigger" power to the relay. Pull 12V power from somewhere and route it through your toggle on/off, the WOT switch on the pedal and through the hobbs switch (pulling pressure from the intake horn or manifold). Mine comes on right at 20psi, just after the external WG opens to ease the shock to the turbocharger. IMO you can get away with a stock HG with a set of studs. I make about 80hp with .066 worth of jet, so runing somewhere in the .050 jet range should net you about 50 safe hp. No need to start worrying about progressive controllers until you're trying to run 100+ hp through a single stage.

Jetpilot

John,

Remember you are running a different engine than he is.... The MLS gasket on the 3rd gen trucks are holding up to substantially increased boost levels and even nitrous by just installing studs. The 24v 2nd gen motors are a different animal and use very different head gasket materials. Thus his need to o-ring the head.

Doug

banshee

for only 50 hp though? Plenty of guys run twins to 60+ lbs and singles with small N20 shots on 24V trucks with studs and stock gaskets.

Jetpilot

I don't think that there are many guys running 60+ lbs of boost with a stock headgasket that haven't had problems. I do know of one guy who was running 65# but he was the exception. I have seen a lot more gaskets blown from boost in the 50# range than I know, heck my truck let one fly at 45#.

When you ad nitrous into the mix all bets are off. I do a couple guys who do run it in small amounts for a very few times but its a risk. If a 24v guy runs nitrous and doesn't o-ring the head he is just asking for trouble in my opinion.

Doug

hemijustin

there are also plenty of guys that change their head gaskets once a month

Justin