Alright today i did the free gsk and it worked out great at first didnt tighten the springs enough and would rev to 3200 but wouldnt stay idling. So tighten them up and everything was fine idled and revved fine. But heres where the problem starts, i took it for a test drive and it shifted good and locked up in overdrive like it should . But once i came to the stop sign and i took off and came up to speed where overdrive comes in , it shifted in but the TC wont stayed locked up, it keeps coming unlocked then locked. Before i did this mod everything was fine. But now it wont lock up at all or it will lock up but not even 2 seconds later it will unlock and rpms will go up about 150 to 250 rpms. I cant take the locking then unlocking feeling all the time going down the road . PLs help . P.S. if this is hard to follow i appologize.

 

Take the truck out for a freeway drive and keep the truck around 65mph or so. When it starts locking and unlocking the TC put your toe underneath the brake pedal and hold it up. If the TC locks and stays locked check your brake light switch. PM me if you've got questions...

 

if you go back and check the original thread, i believe some one had to reset the tps, as in adjust it.

 

Thanks when you say taking the tps off and/or adjusting it you mean how? Take it off then put it back on? I read the forums in free gsk for p-pump bunch but couldnt find anything?

PS i have tried to oput my foot underneath the brake pedal but it shifts out still .

 

Check the brake switch, tps, and trans temp sensor.
Mine was doing the exact thing last week and ended up being a $42 temp sensor in the cooler line. You can test the temp sensor by unpluging and putting a 1kohm resistor in its place for test purposes to se if its the sensor or not. Hope this helps

 

Mine had done the same when going to the 3K kit then when I did the 4K kit.

My contention is that when you change the responsiveness of the pump with the GSK or change the idle, you don't get as much throttle linkage movement as you did stock. This will result in less voltage from the TPS which in turn results in locking/unlocking of the TC.

You can adjust the voltage of the TPS and help the problem. I doubt it's a bad temp sensor since it was ok before you started but good to check that too.

I finally had to adjust the throttle linkage to squeeze some extra voltage out of the TPS. There is a critical measurement of 5" that can be changed by 1mm either way. I moved mine less than that and gained another 0.1v on the TPS and cleared up the problem. Here's a link to see what I'm talking about. Look at step #47 to see the measurements. http://dodgeram.info/tsb/recalls/970/repair.htm

What we have to remember is that everytime we change something like the idle or power we cause something else to react and not always favorably.

 

Thanks alot i hope this helps i have checked to see if there was anyplay in the throttle at WOT and there wasnt so hopefully it can just adjust it to pull some more volts also how did you check the voltage?

 

Mine is very simular after gsk work. I will look into the tps voltage as well.

thanks

 

I was trying to find the link for adjusting the TPS. You can see a write up of checking the voltage in a Haynes manual. Setting the voltage up 0.1 -0.2 volts is usually enough to cure the TC lock/unlock. I know that when the idle gets turned down (like after doing a GSK kit) the starting voltage of the TPS is lower. It is all connected and will cause problems.

Another way to correct it is to change the GSK so you can set the idle back up to increase the starting voltage on the TPS. Like in physics each action has an equal and opposite reaction.

I'll keep looking for the link on the TPS. What you basically did was to drill out the mounting holes so you can rotate the TPS to get more voltage.

Paul

 

Thanks i hope you can find that link and so your sayin need to drill the holes out and remount it? thanks clint

 

Here's a link that has how to check the TPS voltage written up - http://dodgeram.info/tsb/recalls/B15.htm

If the voltage is too high the lock up will occur later but not easily unlock. A little voltage goes a long way so be slow and careful. Start at about 1.2 V at idle and see where that gets you. You may also want to go back and try to refine the GSK and idle screw to get your voltage back up.

Hope this helps.

Paul

 

What does the DRB III stand for in the instructions that you gave me? sorry lol

 

It is the OBD scan tool.

 

Sorry. It is a plug in scan tool that can read the voltage for the TPS. You'll need to find the write up of checking it with a volt meter in a Haynes manual.

Paul