where is a good place to get a fuel pressure guage for cheap? now remember not too cheap, i want good quality, but reasonable prices.

and also is $130 alot for a FP guage? i thought it was.

and one more thing is, should i go with electrical or mechanical? i've seen both but i don't know which one is better, or if i can even go either way.

thanks in advance

 

Use a mechanical gauge with no isolator.
Excellent prices for high quality made in USA gauges here.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.as...s&keyword=NFGA

Inventory is always changing, check back if you don't find what you like.
It only matters to you whether the gauge says fuel on it, any gauge labeled air or water will work fine.
Here's a nice one for $11--- http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...atname=engines

 

I'll second Bill's recommendation. I'm running a $10 "water" pressure gauge that matches my z-series Autometers perfectly.

 

http://www.egauges.com/

 

I am sure that we could help you out. At least you can look through our web site to get a good idea of what the gauges all look like.

 

thanks all for the help. i'm digging all the sites ya'll gave me. i'm gonna keep looking around for a little while, but i figured that i really need to get a FP guage on. right now i'm liking the ISSPRO and DiProcol guages, are these reliable brands? and infidel, what do you mean by "no isolator" how do i know if it does or doesn't have one and what is it? and HP Upgrades, i do really like your selection and the prices are reasonable to me, i mean they're no $130 dollars, but still what do you mean by saying "sure that we could help you out" like will you price match or what?

and by the way what's up with this $130 FP guage? that's outrageous, and not to name any names, hmmmhmm, geno's garage, hmmmhmmm. i'm glad i didn't get one from there b/c i was going to but i always do my research first and i'm glad i did. but why would they charge that much?

 

The $130 gauge is a full sweep electrical gauge like a pyrometer. That is why it's so expensive.

 

i see, so i wouldn't even want that one b/c it is an electrical one right?

 

Many people have found electrical gauges don't last.
Why have a gauge that fails more often than the system it's monitoring?

An isolator is nothing more than a diaphragm that keeps fuel out of the cab. There is antifreeze in the cab side of the gauge line.
Like electrical senders isolators don't last on a diesel engine either. The diaphragm ruptures and allows fuel into the cab without your knowledge. Doesn't leak, but defeats it's purpose.
Every single gauge with isolator that I've removed has allowed diesel in the cab. My feeling is most isolators fail in the first thousand miles.

 

ok so i don't want an isolator on the guage, is this right?

how do i know if the guage has an isolator on it, is there some clear way to tell, do the descriptions of the guage on websites say that somewhere, i haven't seen it?