Dually Rims
09-06-2004, 07:13 PM
#16
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GM pilot holes are 0.050" larger than stock Dodge. I am going to space 0.025" shim stock around the hubs ASAP, to eliminate a vibration I have from the wheels being offset. Not a serious vibration, though, just a minor annoyance. So far, I really love the rims/tires. I find zero rubbing, the duals look preoperly spaced, and the tires are actually WITHIN the fender bulge now! The 225/75/16's they replaced actually stuck out a fraction from the wheel wells!!
09-13-2004, 12:09 AM
#18
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Patience, Grasshopper! No pictures can be developed before their time....
Seriously, they are coming. I hope to have the roll developed and pictures in this coming weekend. Have pics of the new(er) wheels and guages on it.
Seriously, they are coming. I hope to have the roll developed and pictures in this coming weekend. Have pics of the new(er) wheels and guages on it.
09-21-2004, 05:49 PM
#21
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Unlike Hoss's bedliner, pictures of my rims are coming. I did put in some shims around the hubs and drastically reduced the vibrations! now I only gat a little shaken around 20 mph!
Curiously, MPG by the computer are way down...
I had figured they might go up, since I am running closer to the factory tires, going less than 2000 rpms at 65 mph. Instead, I have gone from 19-21 mpg down to 16.4.
Because I was running too small of tires before, and now slightly larger tires now, I really do not know if the mileage is correct or not. Smoe say to hand calculate, but I am not certain I am racking up the miles correctly, either! Any suggestions???
Another note: The rims are Firestone, and have variable hub center sizes! The wheel I mounted on the passenger side front needed vary little shim, while the one for the driver side front needed twice as much!!
Curiously, MPG by the computer are way down...
I had figured they might go up, since I am running closer to the factory tires, going less than 2000 rpms at 65 mph. Instead, I have gone from 19-21 mpg down to 16.4.
Because I was running too small of tires before, and now slightly larger tires now, I really do not know if the mileage is correct or not. Smoe say to hand calculate, but I am not certain I am racking up the miles correctly, either! Any suggestions???Another note: The rims are Firestone, and have variable hub center sizes! The wheel I mounted on the passenger side front needed vary little shim, while the one for the driver side front needed twice as much!!
10-13-2004, 08:17 AM
#25
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Thread Starter
Yes, but I had incorrect tires on for starters. Went from 225/75R16's, which were listed at 29" new. Mine were down to the wear bars, so probably closer to 28" instead. The new tires sit close to 33", but I think stock 235/85R16's were close to that?? My wife thinks they look much better than the short 16's I had. Plus one from the Warden!! The wheel looks more proportionate to the truck now, vs. the 16" rim. I initially was worried about the 1" shallower backspacing, but everything fits fine. To my eye when looking in the mirror, now the tread is all under the truck -- even the stock rims with the narrow 225's before stuck out a wee bit from the rear fenders. I am very happy with the setup. I might try 245's in the future, but these tires will possibly last me for 100,000+ miles, so it will be awhile!!
Of course, if winter driving doesn't hold up to my expectations (Tall, skinny traction tires worked best for deep and packed snow when I lived in Northern Wisconsin) then I might try to sell these tires and move up a size. The 6" rim width may not make the switch practical, though.
The wheel looks more proportionate to the truck now, vs. the 16" rim. I initially was worried about the 1" shallower backspacing, but everything fits fine. To my eye when looking in the mirror, now the tread is all under the truck -- even the stock rims with the narrow 225's before stuck out a wee bit from the rear fenders. I am very happy with the setup. I might try 245's in the future, but these tires will possibly last me for 100,000+ miles, so it will be awhile!! Of course, if winter driving doesn't hold up to my expectations (Tall, skinny traction tires worked best for deep and packed snow when I lived in Northern Wisconsin) then I might try to sell these tires and move up a size. The 6" rim width may not make the switch practical, though.
01-19-2006, 07:17 AM
#26
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Originally Posted by zulusafari
19.5's are on! Some side-to-side movement as the tires wear in, but I am happy so far... The GM wheels bolted right up! I do not notice any clearance problems. The tires are actually better fitting in the wheel wells, especially the rear, than the tires on the factory rims!
I went with:
1. GM 19.5 8x6.5 dually rims from GM P30 stepvans
2. Hankook DH01 Super Traction drive tires, all positions
3. Innovative Balancing Dyna Beads balancing system
4. Reused Dodge 2-piece lugnuts & factory center caps
Pictures are coming, when film gets developed!
I went with:
1. GM 19.5 8x6.5 dually rims from GM P30 stepvans
2. Hankook DH01 Super Traction drive tires, all positions
3. Innovative Balancing Dyna Beads balancing system
4. Reused Dodge 2-piece lugnuts & factory center caps
Pictures are coming, when film gets developed!
Zulu it has been a while... anything going on with these? What the heck are clamping plates?
Who has the source on Accurid 29015 's ? Where can these be purchased?
How much will it cost to have these bored out? Since our wheels are stud centered how accurate does the center bore need to be? I can just see myself with a grinder grinding jagged edges into the center hole
01-19-2006, 09:27 AM
#27
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I can answer a couple of these. Clamoing rings are plates that go over the studs after the wheels have been slid on, before putting on the lug nuts. I believe their purpose is to distribute the clamping force of the lug nuts more evenly, but I could be wrong.
For locating, it would be best to have the center hole exactly the same size as the hub (well, a tiny bit larger, so they slide over the hub nicely without having to pound them on!). You want the hub holes opened up evenly, so that they are still centered with the rest of the wheel, because when you get the tires ballanced, the center holes are used to mount the wheels on the ballancer. If the holes are off, the tires won't be ballanced correctly.
Jim
For locating, it would be best to have the center hole exactly the same size as the hub (well, a tiny bit larger, so they slide over the hub nicely without having to pound them on!). You want the hub holes opened up evenly, so that they are still centered with the rest of the wheel, because when you get the tires ballanced, the center holes are used to mount the wheels on the ballancer. If the holes are off, the tires won't be ballanced correctly.
Jim
01-20-2006, 10:45 PM
#28
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To add to that, dually rims are hubcentric, not lug centric, so you do need the centers opened up properly. If you look at dodge and ford duallies (and newer GMs as well), they use the unimount style lugnut, which only clamps, and doesn't center like the budd style lugnuts. So if the hub centers are not centered (or oversized), they will allow the wheel to be mounted off non concentricly, and will cause a vibe. Thats why zulusafari had to shim the centers.
01-21-2006, 08:24 AM
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The proper center bore sizes for all different makes/models are listed on Rickson's website.
I decided to go with 16s and dually for now. I am flip flopping a little but hopefully this was the right choice.
First it was Ricksons with single rear wheel and a spare. This would've been a great combination of tire wear and safety but looks stupid (single rear wheels with no bed) and will get DOT and customers wondering if I am safe. Cost is highest - $3000 shipped. Rickson was taking too long and having a hard time letting me know what was going on so I said forget that.
Did some research and realized for literally LESS money I could convert to dually and go 19.5's. Although I left a spare out in that equation because of the overall added cost and weight. The 19.5's add like 400 pounds of rotational weight. Plus the weight of the dually adapters (heavy)... I am trying to keep the truck weight around 7k. I figure I am at about 6500 right now. I had the price down to about $2700 including wheels, tires, and having the Accuride's bored out. My guess is based on the fact that there is a pallet of "$200" Accuride's going for $29 each on eBay (wrong size for us), eventually a similar pallet will sell in the model 29015 and at that point, I will look into it.
The ArrowCraft 16" dually conversion will end up costing me $1800 delivered to my door including the adapters, mounting hardware, load range E tires mounted and balanced, WITH a spare. The people at ArrowCraft were very friendly and helpful. The cost has actually gone DOWN since I inquired first about the conversion 6 months ago. Dually should not raise so many doubts as a single rear wheel setup, allows me to get back up and running with the spare if I get a flat (hopefully), and will let me move my tires to the trailer when they are starting to be too little tread for the steer/drive.
I decided to go with 16s and dually for now. I am flip flopping a little but hopefully this was the right choice.
First it was Ricksons with single rear wheel and a spare. This would've been a great combination of tire wear and safety but looks stupid (single rear wheels with no bed) and will get DOT and customers wondering if I am safe. Cost is highest - $3000 shipped. Rickson was taking too long and having a hard time letting me know what was going on so I said forget that.
Did some research and realized for literally LESS money I could convert to dually and go 19.5's. Although I left a spare out in that equation because of the overall added cost and weight. The 19.5's add like 400 pounds of rotational weight. Plus the weight of the dually adapters (heavy)... I am trying to keep the truck weight around 7k. I figure I am at about 6500 right now. I had the price down to about $2700 including wheels, tires, and having the Accuride's bored out. My guess is based on the fact that there is a pallet of "$200" Accuride's going for $29 each on eBay (wrong size for us), eventually a similar pallet will sell in the model 29015 and at that point, I will look into it.
The ArrowCraft 16" dually conversion will end up costing me $1800 delivered to my door including the adapters, mounting hardware, load range E tires mounted and balanced, WITH a spare. The people at ArrowCraft were very friendly and helpful. The cost has actually gone DOWN since I inquired first about the conversion 6 months ago. Dually should not raise so many doubts as a single rear wheel setup, allows me to get back up and running with the spare if I get a flat (hopefully), and will let me move my tires to the trailer when they are starting to be too little tread for the steer/drive.
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