3k spring or fuel plate first
3k spring or fuel plate first
well i have read the instructions to both. Check the truck today and i don't have the break off screw meaning someone was in there already?
or could it mean it is rebuilt pump?
anyways i only want to do one at time. which would you do first?
the 3k spring in the 2 gen. trucks harder or easier the first gen. trucks?
or could it mean it is rebuilt pump?
anyways i only want to do one at time. which would you do first?
the 3k spring in the 2 gen. trucks harder or easier the first gen. trucks?
I know you said you wanted to do them separately but when the plate is out your clear for the GSK install. I got my #10 plate from this guy:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge...spagenameZWDVW
Very nicely machined BTW.
If you don't want to grind your own (I didn't) get one from him and get a 3K GSK from PDR: http://www.pdrdiesel.com/products/30...it-582-35.html
You'll only have $145 in both!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge...spagenameZWDVW
Very nicely machined BTW.
If you don't want to grind your own (I didn't) get one from him and get a 3K GSK from PDR: http://www.pdrdiesel.com/products/30...it-582-35.html
You'll only have $145 in both!
what plate
ill probably by both at the same time, i just want to see what each does.
what plate would you go with on a stock truck.
the tranny was rebuilt 20k km ago and is working great
i was thinking #10 or #8
what plate would you go with on a stock truck.
the tranny was rebuilt 20k km ago and is working great
i was thinking #10 or #8
The #10 plate and GSK is a great combo.
But before the plate you should at least get a pyro (Exhaust Temperature) gauge because without it you run the risk of melting engine parts. Also, if the transmission was built to stock specs, then a shift kit (Trans-go TFOD Diesel) or modified valve body would also be a good idea. This gets the line pressures so the tranny can better handle the added HP and torque.
But before the plate you should at least get a pyro (Exhaust Temperature) gauge because without it you run the risk of melting engine parts. Also, if the transmission was built to stock specs, then a shift kit (Trans-go TFOD Diesel) or modified valve body would also be a good idea. This gets the line pressures so the tranny can better handle the added HP and torque.
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The Transgo TFOD Diesel shift kit is the cheapest ($75-100) but the most work. A valve body is the easiest but probably $500-$600. Did they reuse the torque converter or install a new one on the rebuild?
Hopefully they put in a better one as the stock units are very sloppy. My truck would drop 600-750rpm when the TC locked up with the stock unit. More like 100-150rpm now. With a #10 plate/GSK and a good low stall converter you won't think your driving the same truck and these are still mild upgrades.
Hopefully they put in a better one as the stock units are very sloppy. My truck would drop 600-750rpm when the TC locked up with the stock unit. More like 100-150rpm now. With a #10 plate/GSK and a good low stall converter you won't think your driving the same truck and these are still mild upgrades.
the tranny was replace by previous owner, i have the receipt for it and can call the shop that rebuilt it.
im sure the previous owner upgraded. he put on a lot of goodies like
03 trac bar ,steering box stabilizer
rebuilt tranny and transfer case , new tires,
the list goes on.
im sure the previous owner upgraded. he put on a lot of goodies like
03 trac bar ,steering box stabilizer
rebuilt tranny and transfer case , new tires,
the list goes on.
Sounds promising, hopefully they at least upgraded the Torque Converter. If they replaced it and didn't use a factory Dodge unit then its probably at least a bit better than stock. One way to know is to watch how many rpm's the engine drops when the TC locks up after 4th gear. If its 500-700 rpm then its either stock or just like it. If the rpm drops much less then it was probably replaced with a low stall TC.
Just accelerate gently on a flat road and watch the tach. 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd are a fairly small drop on the tach. 3rd to OD should be a larger rpm drop and on a stocker when the TC locks up its also a large drop of 500-750rpm. On my truck it happens around 50mph but yours could be a bit before or after that.
The Goerend TC on my truck is so tight that you really have to watch the tach closely to see it. On a stock or equivalent TC the rpm drop is impossible to miss. The smaller the rpm drop usually means a tighter TC as there is less slippage when unlocked so less rpm drop when it locks up.
Hope this helps, road test it a number of times and record what your results are. It won't tell you how much HP the TC can take but you will get a bit of an idea how much slippage there is during unlocked operation. I believe that the stock TC's can be only 65-70% efficient where the best aftermarket versions can be 85-90%.
The Goerend TC on my truck is so tight that you really have to watch the tach closely to see it. On a stock or equivalent TC the rpm drop is impossible to miss. The smaller the rpm drop usually means a tighter TC as there is less slippage when unlocked so less rpm drop when it locks up.
Hope this helps, road test it a number of times and record what your results are. It won't tell you how much HP the TC can take but you will get a bit of an idea how much slippage there is during unlocked operation. I believe that the stock TC's can be only 65-70% efficient where the best aftermarket versions can be 85-90%.
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