FACTS: '95, 12V, auto, all stock.

I am looking at getting a new fuel plate and a 3K spring kit and doing the install myself.

I've changed the oil, changed a fuel line and swapped a water pump in the 2 years I have had the truck so I am by no means diesel savvy...

But I'm pretty handy with wrenches - I built the manual transmission in my Scout and have made a few cracks at setting up axle gears... But what am I getting myself into?

Any 'special' tools needed??

How long would it take a guy to do in his garage?

What might I have to pay someone to have it done if I chicken out?

THANKS!

 

Sounds like you can handle the job. When I did the washer trick, a pencil magnet came in handy. I removed the fuel shutoff solenoid for easier access to the side of the pump. A barring tool would be very useful, it fits on a 1/2" socket. I believe I got mine from a Cummins dealer for about $35. It'll take a newbie anywhere from 1-3 hours to do. Once you gain access to the springs in the pump, before you unscrew the "click" nuts, I would measure the stud portrusion with some digital calipers. Keep it on record if you ever need to go back to stock, or actually even with the new GSK springs I think you need to keep the same stud portrusion.

For the fuel plate, don't bend any of the hard fuel lines, you can remove the banjo bolt for the main fuel line at the injection pump and move the line away enough to gain access to the screws on the AFC housing. The break-off screw may be a little pita but you can grind a notch in it with a Dremel then use a flathead screwdriver, or use various methods to remove it.

 

When I did my springs, I went through the top. I could hardly see the plug in the side of the pump, so I wanted to go through the top. Pencil magnet was vital, and one of those mechanical fingers, or grab-ems, whatever you like to call them, when I pulled my idle springs out. A vernier caliper is handy to have for the stud protrusion, so you don't have to count the clicks. A big flat head screw driver that you could grind the middle out of would be a big asset for the adjusting the springs. Using a regular flat head was a pain for me.

 

Of course you can, just take your time and don't drop anything into the pump. Its not hard, just takes some time.

 

Does any one have a right up on where to get the parts and how to perform this task?

 

Have you gotten your parts yet? When I got my springs from Peak, they came with instructions in the package.