Cuttting Metalworking questions
#1
MMMmmmm.... Grits!!
Thread Starter
Cuttting Metalworking questions
Yes, it's my new found thrifty (cheap) nature that brings this out. I got a scrap piece of 1/4" plate steel and a DPF gasket to make a flange for a 6.7 "test pipe". A guy at work cut it out with a torch pretty close but it's gonna need trimming or grinding or cutting. The few muffler shops I visited including ones I have been to before all want me to supply the flange then they will mate the pipe for me. The question is what is best for this trimming? Plasma cutter is not available to me and the bench grinder will take me weeks (j/k).
All advise is appreciated.
WHY THIS WAY?
Plate steel scrap..........................FREE
Rough cut of flange......................FREE
5 FT of 4" exhaust pipe..................$20
Welding flange to pipe...................$10
DPF gasket..................................$10
Lowest priced delete pipe on net OVER $200 plus shipping.
Chris
All advise is appreciated.
WHY THIS WAY?
Plate steel scrap..........................FREE
Rough cut of flange......................FREE
5 FT of 4" exhaust pipe..................$20
Welding flange to pipe...................$10
DPF gasket..................................$10
Lowest priced delete pipe on net OVER $200 plus shipping.
Chris
#2
DTR's 'Wrench thrower...' And he aims for the gusto...
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I made one for something else.
Just hole saw or plasma cut (I know you don't have one) the hole to the size you need and the size that fits well over your pipe.
Cut out the rough shape with a hand bandsaw or torch or plasma. Grind to finish size with hand grinder or bench grinder. A simple square with the corners ground off will work well for 4 bolts if the steel is thick enough.
Make two pieces together when you drill the flange bolt holes so everything lines up.
Be sure your material is thick enough or add more flange bolts if you are not sure. Three minimum, four is good, five or six for thin metal.
Make the flanges big enough to keep them strong and allow room, after the welding, to easily install the bolts and nuts. 3/8 is a good size.
Cut out the offending piece from the truck. Cut it square! Now cut your replacement piece the same length as the adjusted opening. Adjusted because it was not cut square and you had to clean it up a bit. At leat that's what I usually have to do.
Put the flanges and the pipe in place and bolted up, then tack it all together. Then remove the pipe for final welding and to surface the flanges with a large file or belt sander to flatten them.
Re-install with gaskets and you're good to go. Mine's been in for years with no leaks.
If you don't have a good grinder it may be time to get one. A 3/4 HP Grainger 8" with Dayton motor is an excellent choice. And while you're on your tool buying spree, get a good hand band with high speed blades in 24 or 32. If you need them now you'll need them later, so just do it. Did I mention an 8 inch Wilton mechanics vise and a new plasma cutter? And what about a DC buzz box or wire feed? Don't forget the 316 SS welding rod or wire spool. Now might be the time for that floor mount drill press and an abrasive cutoff. Of course you'll need a good sawsall and long fine blades to cut the trucks pipe. Sheesh.
Now you can launch into many other projects right at home. Well, after you build the new workbench with the metal top for welding. And, of course the solvent wash tank setup, the welding gear, various hammers, fire extinguishers and the shop sound system. But don't worry about those till you have a good compressor, hoses and a few air tools. Do you have good lighting for night projects? A shop vac? And for working under the truck you might need a jack and some stands.
That should get you started and set you up to make a list of the things you'll need.
Sounds like you'll save a lot of cash by doing this yourself.
Just hole saw or plasma cut (I know you don't have one) the hole to the size you need and the size that fits well over your pipe.
Cut out the rough shape with a hand bandsaw or torch or plasma. Grind to finish size with hand grinder or bench grinder. A simple square with the corners ground off will work well for 4 bolts if the steel is thick enough.
Make two pieces together when you drill the flange bolt holes so everything lines up.
Be sure your material is thick enough or add more flange bolts if you are not sure. Three minimum, four is good, five or six for thin metal.
Make the flanges big enough to keep them strong and allow room, after the welding, to easily install the bolts and nuts. 3/8 is a good size.
Cut out the offending piece from the truck. Cut it square! Now cut your replacement piece the same length as the adjusted opening. Adjusted because it was not cut square and you had to clean it up a bit. At leat that's what I usually have to do.
Put the flanges and the pipe in place and bolted up, then tack it all together. Then remove the pipe for final welding and to surface the flanges with a large file or belt sander to flatten them.
Re-install with gaskets and you're good to go. Mine's been in for years with no leaks.
If you don't have a good grinder it may be time to get one. A 3/4 HP Grainger 8" with Dayton motor is an excellent choice. And while you're on your tool buying spree, get a good hand band with high speed blades in 24 or 32. If you need them now you'll need them later, so just do it. Did I mention an 8 inch Wilton mechanics vise and a new plasma cutter? And what about a DC buzz box or wire feed? Don't forget the 316 SS welding rod or wire spool. Now might be the time for that floor mount drill press and an abrasive cutoff. Of course you'll need a good sawsall and long fine blades to cut the trucks pipe. Sheesh.
Now you can launch into many other projects right at home. Well, after you build the new workbench with the metal top for welding. And, of course the solvent wash tank setup, the welding gear, various hammers, fire extinguishers and the shop sound system. But don't worry about those till you have a good compressor, hoses and a few air tools. Do you have good lighting for night projects? A shop vac? And for working under the truck you might need a jack and some stands.
That should get you started and set you up to make a list of the things you'll need.
Sounds like you'll save a lot of cash by doing this yourself.
#3
MMMmmmm.... Grits!!
Thread Starter
Thanks John,
So far, I have taken the gasket and traced it onto the plate. The guy cut out the shape for me by torch leaving a little meat around the outside but not much. The center hole he cut under sized. What will be the best thing to cut the hole out to the proper size and maintain a proper circle. Is there a 4" hole saw for metal? Does it need a 1/2" drill or bigger? Press?
Chris
So far, I have taken the gasket and traced it onto the plate. The guy cut out the shape for me by torch leaving a little meat around the outside but not much. The center hole he cut under sized. What will be the best thing to cut the hole out to the proper size and maintain a proper circle. Is there a 4" hole saw for metal? Does it need a 1/2" drill or bigger? Press?
Chris
#5
DTR's 'Wrench thrower...' And he aims for the gusto...
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Smith Valley, NV (sometimes Redwood City, CA)
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It's hard to use a hole saw to make a large hole bigger. Just use the hole he made as long as it's not smaller than the pipe. If it is smaller, get him to burn it out bigger or go back to the hole saw with a filler piece of 3/4 plywood so you can have a pilot hole and carefully saw it out. The two pipes can butt up to the flange if needed, but it's better if they can slip in. That way alignment is easy and restriction is not a problem.
Yes there are 4" metal cutting hole saws. But burning it out would be better if you don't have the hole saw and a drill press. That big of a saw is expensive and it will fight you.
Yes there are 4" metal cutting hole saws. But burning it out would be better if you don't have the hole saw and a drill press. That big of a saw is expensive and it will fight you.
#6
MMMmmmm.... Grits!!
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