Alberta Dyno and GTG
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Alberta Foothills - Power to grow with 6 in a row - XLR8
My old tub, lets' see, where do I start?
Had a great Christmas work load that ended in me having a chunk of change left over so I bought the old girl some toys.....PDR35 w/14cm housing, Smarty and some F1 Mach 1.75's. I figured this would be a nice combo for towing, and I can keep my exhaust brake, so I went with it.
Bolted everything on one day and went for a drive, NO BOOST! Well, 15 to 20 lbs anyways. PDR35 is wastegated for 36 psi.
So start looking for leaks and find the intercooler is popped! Fine, order an intercooler for Mark down at PDR. Bolt it in, take it for a run and again, no boost.
Look some more and find an intercooler boot with a pin hole in it. So small that there is no way it is the leak but replace it anyways. Still no boost.
Talked to Mark again at PDR and he gave me some places to look and things to do, etc, etc, etc.
Adjusted valves, replaced IAT and MAP sensors, checked push rods, replaced various gaskets, etc, etc, etc. I'll admit I replaced more than I should. Still no boost.
Went out one very cold morning about 2 weeks ago and did a pressure test again on the motor and you can hear a leak as usual, just can't find it.
Well I found it!!! Pressure from the test is bubbling up thru the intake valve guides and pressurizing the valve cover and then going out the blow by tube!!!! Head is toast and needs to be replaced at 115,000 miles!!!
Truck runs awesome with the new toys on it. You wouldn't even guess that there is anything wrong with it unless you look at the boost and EGT gages.
Boost goes flat at 15-20 lbs and the EGT's rocket in to meltdown but the truck pulls like a freight train.
So hopefully, the old girl will head down to PDR sometime next month to have a Cummins Reman head dropped on it. Mark at PDR says they can have it out the door in less than 2 days for sure.
So after $3000 in new toys, $1000 in an new intercooler, another $1000 in misc replacement parts and another $3500 or so for a replacement head, she should be good to go for a few more miles.
It's still cheaper to keep her so that's why I'm doing it. Then we can see what kind of numbers it makes
Jeff
Had a great Christmas work load that ended in me having a chunk of change left over so I bought the old girl some toys.....PDR35 w/14cm housing, Smarty and some F1 Mach 1.75's. I figured this would be a nice combo for towing, and I can keep my exhaust brake, so I went with it.
Bolted everything on one day and went for a drive, NO BOOST! Well, 15 to 20 lbs anyways. PDR35 is wastegated for 36 psi.
So start looking for leaks and find the intercooler is popped! Fine, order an intercooler for Mark down at PDR. Bolt it in, take it for a run and again, no boost.
Look some more and find an intercooler boot with a pin hole in it. So small that there is no way it is the leak but replace it anyways. Still no boost.
Talked to Mark again at PDR and he gave me some places to look and things to do, etc, etc, etc.
Adjusted valves, replaced IAT and MAP sensors, checked push rods, replaced various gaskets, etc, etc, etc. I'll admit I replaced more than I should. Still no boost.
Went out one very cold morning about 2 weeks ago and did a pressure test again on the motor and you can hear a leak as usual, just can't find it.
Well I found it!!! Pressure from the test is bubbling up thru the intake valve guides and pressurizing the valve cover and then going out the blow by tube!!!! Head is toast and needs to be replaced at 115,000 miles!!!
Truck runs awesome with the new toys on it. You wouldn't even guess that there is anything wrong with it unless you look at the boost and EGT gages.
Boost goes flat at 15-20 lbs and the EGT's rocket in to meltdown but the truck pulls like a freight train.
So hopefully, the old girl will head down to PDR sometime next month to have a Cummins Reman head dropped on it. Mark at PDR says they can have it out the door in less than 2 days for sure.
So after $3000 in new toys, $1000 in an new intercooler, another $1000 in misc replacement parts and another $3500 or so for a replacement head, she should be good to go for a few more miles.
It's still cheaper to keep her so that's why I'm doing it. Then we can see what kind of numbers it makes
Jeff
Andy
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,257
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From: Sundre, Alberta
I know that we have all heard it before, but I'm happy with the power level I'm at or is it, will be? Man, I must be getting old! 
I'm thinking about studs because I would like to add water injection as an option. I'm not interested in the methanol end of it. My concern is keeping EGT's down while towing. I like to be the first to the top of the hill
Mark at PDR has a 12v head gasket available that they have specially punched out to fit the 24v trucks. The marine gasket is the only one they use and this gasket is a step or 2 above that. I'm going that route for sure. I don't think o-rings are needed in my case.
If I get another truck and turn this old girl into my play toy, then I'll step it up quite a few more notches but right now I just want reliability with some more kick.
Jeff
I'm thinking about studs because I would like to add water injection as an option. I'm not interested in the methanol end of it. My concern is keeping EGT's down while towing. I like to be the first to the top of the hill
Mark at PDR has a 12v head gasket available that they have specially punched out to fit the 24v trucks. The marine gasket is the only one they use and this gasket is a step or 2 above that. I'm going that route for sure. I don't think o-rings are needed in my case.
If I get another truck and turn this old girl into my play toy, then I'll step it up quite a few more notches but right now I just want reliability with some more kick.
Jeff
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 492
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From: Central Alberta
I have been fighting high egts with my ps 62 and need to figure why?
So how do you guys pressure test your intercooler piping? I was thinking if welding on some thin plate on top of a 4" exhaust 90, with a welded nipple on the plate, and tighten it onto the intake rubber hoses, and closing the positive air, before the intake horn.
Does this make sense?
Any suggestions?
So how do you guys pressure test your intercooler piping? I was thinking if welding on some thin plate on top of a 4" exhaust 90, with a welded nipple on the plate, and tighten it onto the intake rubber hoses, and closing the positive air, before the intake horn.
Does this make sense?
Any suggestions?
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,190
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From: Red Deer, Alberta
Hey BlueDually, how's it going? Still busy or has breakup caught up to ya??
There are a few guys on here that have made up similar tester's made out of PVC. They work very good. You must have a leak or something comparing to Kevin's truck. He has a Silver 62, so his turbo get's the gases out better but still??? Have you thought of trying a similar stack like Kevin has instead? Take it easy and enjoy breakup before it's busy time again.....
There are a few guys on here that have made up similar tester's made out of PVC. They work very good. You must have a leak or something comparing to Kevin's truck. He has a Silver 62, so his turbo get's the gases out better but still??? Have you thought of trying a similar stack like Kevin has instead? Take it easy and enjoy breakup before it's busy time again.....
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,069
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From: Lloydminster, Alberta, Canada
Hey BlueDually, how's it going? Still busy or has breakup caught up to ya?? There are a few guys on here that have made up similar tester's made out of PVC. They work very good. You must have a leak or something comparing to Kevin's truck. He has a Silver 62, so his turbo get's the gases out better but still??? Have you thought of trying a similar stack like Kevin has instead? Take it easy and enjoy breakup before it's busy time again.....
There are a few guys on here that have made up similar tester's made out of PVC. They work very good. You must have a leak or something comparing to Kevin's truck. He has a Silver 62, so his turbo get's the gases out better but still??? Have you thought of trying a similar stack like Kevin has instead? Take it easy and enjoy breakup before it's busy time again.....Where's it breakin up?? Up here in Fort Nelson, it's colder than a son of a bugger and only a couple warmer days forecasted, but generally cold (-15 highs) for the next three weeks. I was talking with a guy that's been up here for the last 26 years. He says this year is one of few with as much snow.
When it does hit up here......I think it'll be a long one.
Cheers!!
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From: Lloydminster, Alberta, Canada
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Airdrie, Alberta
+19 in the Hat tomorrow. Only supposed to be 15 in Calgary.
Jamie, how come you're running a second pyro? Pre/post turbo, front/back cylinders, or something else?
Jordan, I'd suggest hooking it up to the suction side of the compressor. That way you'll find a leak if there is one from turbo to intercooler pipe. Also, open the positive air up, so you can see if you have leaks around the grid heaters. Or pull off the valve cover while you're there. Jeff was having leaks around the valve guides. Something to look into. How much boost were you getting on the dyno?
Jamie, how come you're running a second pyro? Pre/post turbo, front/back cylinders, or something else?
Jordan, I'd suggest hooking it up to the suction side of the compressor. That way you'll find a leak if there is one from turbo to intercooler pipe. Also, open the positive air up, so you can see if you have leaks around the grid heaters. Or pull off the valve cover while you're there. Jeff was having leaks around the valve guides. Something to look into. How much boost were you getting on the dyno?
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,257
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From: Sundre, Alberta
I'll try and post a pic tomorrow of my tester installed on the truck so you can see what it looks like. It's mostly just a 4" to 3" rubber plumbing coupler with a 3" plug in the end.
It goes on the inlet to the turbo and you pressurize the whole motor not just the intercooler tract. Pressurize it up to 20-25 lbs, I went to 30, and if you have a leak, you will definitely hear it.
If your running the original stock intercooler, the place to look is behind the passenger fog light area. It seems that this is the place they usually pop, other than a rock hit, because of the flexing of the frame.
If it's leaking from the motor itself, you'll hear it while laying on top of the motor or out the blow by tube or out the exhaust pipe.
My leak was as plain as day, just hard to figure out where it was coming from. Because the whole intake tract into the motor was pressurized and because the exhaust valves were closed, the leak showed up right away coming up thru the valve guides.
Jeff
It goes on the inlet to the turbo and you pressurize the whole motor not just the intercooler tract. Pressurize it up to 20-25 lbs, I went to 30, and if you have a leak, you will definitely hear it.
If your running the original stock intercooler, the place to look is behind the passenger fog light area. It seems that this is the place they usually pop, other than a rock hit, because of the flexing of the frame.
If it's leaking from the motor itself, you'll hear it while laying on top of the motor or out the blow by tube or out the exhaust pipe.
My leak was as plain as day, just hard to figure out where it was coming from. Because the whole intake tract into the motor was pressurized and because the exhaust valves were closed, the leak showed up right away coming up thru the valve guides.
Jeff
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,190
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From: Red Deer, Alberta
Hey Tate. I scored a TST R46 remote off of Ebay for $100.00. They are $350.00 American. I'm running my pillar pyro pre turbo and the TST R46 post turbo. The R46 defuels like the Edge Juice does so I will dial in the difference in temps. The R46 displays EGT's, Oil Temp, Boost and power level. I had a brand new probe and wire kicking around from a friend so it all worked out in the end. My pyro used to be mounted post turbo until I cooked my last engine being an idiot!!!
Now I know the difference in temps(about 450 degrees WOT
)
Now I know the difference in temps(about 450 degrees WOT )