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VE Pump Starting problem....

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Old 01-28-2007, 06:24 PM
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Ahhh, but only when it wants to! More fiddling reveals that I may need a new fuel valve. I can hear the solenoid 'make' each time, but it doesn't want to open consistently. Heard of them leaking when closed, ala pull cable shutoff, but don't know what's up with it not opening....
Old 01-28-2007, 06:31 PM
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yeah, that's a new one on me....maybe pull the solenoid and check the plunger for damage?
Old 01-28-2007, 07:57 PM
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I'll have to, just to satisfy my curiousity! Kind of frustrating when I thought I had it figured out. Cheap fix there for awhile ha ha
Old 01-29-2007, 11:22 AM
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I'm still not entirely clear on why it starts when you have the KSB hooked up, but wont start if it's unhooked? How in the world will that affect starting? The KSB on my 92 doesnt work (bad thermo switch- it doesnt power up), and I have some white smoke on startup, but it still starts just fine. Hmmmm...... A real stumper.

Daniel
Old 01-29-2007, 12:05 PM
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This is on a 4BT with a Bosch VE pump. The wax-motor KSB and Fuel Solenoid Valve get power from the same wire. I'm learning as I go along here...
Old 01-29-2007, 12:30 PM
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To re-cap the way it was after first installing engine: it would not start unless I craked the fuel inlet fitting on VE pump while cranking. When I do that it starts instantly.

So searching for that I stumbled across the thing with putting 12V to the KSB wire allowing it to start. Then later learned that KSB is on the same 12V feed as the magnetic solenoid fuel shutoff valve. Then found that the fuel valve is acting erratically because giving it the juice only works about 1 out of 5-8 times. I can hear the mag solenoid click each time, but that doesn't always open the valve. So apparently a weak magnetic solenoid or something in the valve portion is preventing fuel flow.

This is my first diesel so I know very little about them. I spent 1000's of dollars and 5 months of insanity swapping the whole drivetrain and rebuilding the whole blasted truck only to end up with something I can't even drive.
Old 01-29-2007, 04:40 PM
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Before you spend money on a new shutoff solenoid, take out the plunger and spring and put the body back on. Drive it for a couple days like that to make sure it starts reliably, then buy a new solenoid (from VW).
Old 01-29-2007, 07:26 PM
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Thanks for the tip, Wanna. I would have to use a pull-cable shutdown, right? Looked through the archives, searched and couldn't find any tech instructions on that conversion.

Off the top of your head, would that fuel shutoff from Valley Wagon [028-130-135-B] listed in the Parts sticky be the critter for the VE pump with wax motor KSB? Mine's the aneroid type. Would V-dub cut a better deal? Thanks....!

JimmieD
Old 01-31-2007, 04:23 PM
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Yes, you'd have to use the manual lever to shut the engine off.

The shutoff solenoids are all the same. VW sells the same Bosch part as Dodge and Cummins but for about half the price. Tell 'em it's for an '85 Golf with a diesel.
Old 01-31-2007, 09:31 PM
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Thanks again, I found it online for $27!

So turned another page in this ongoing epic: Tore apart the fuel solenoid and found the o-ring was jamming the plunger. Installed it correctly and buttoned things up. Tried it an NO GOOD! Now what? Well, just on a whim I hit the permanent remote switch under hood and it instantly fired up! Seems there's a good chance I have a faulty ignition switch or my wiring needs some changes.

I'm installing another pushbutton start switch in dash and will be replacing ignition switch. Apparently it can't pass enough current to pull solenoid fuel valve plunger and crank engine. More bogus aftermarket junk....
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