OK this it the question.
I have a 95 12V I just had 4’’ exhaust ,afe intake and plate in pump installed, This was installed right after I got the truck 3 weeks ago.
Now I just got a toy hauler 5000lbs empty.
When pulling this up hill the truck will start to cut out and lose power, It is like it lost the turbo that is how it feel and it sound like it is not really getting enough fuel.
I took it in to performance diesel in Bakersfield and they checked it out they said all my pressures are fine and no leaks. They checked timing on pump Westgate, turbo and so on.
It came down to they could not find anything.
They told me it might be the float in the tank. I took the tank off today and it is moving freely.
So I took it for a test drive, same thing happened up hill when it really have to pull will shift down from OD and @ 55 mph @ 2300 rpm after there for some time pulling, it stared again.
I had a full tank of diesel when it happened to day

When I pull over it idles rough and if I hit the gas it will kill it. Let it sit for half a minute it will normally start back up and run normal sometime I have to start it a couple of times before it will run normal.
When just starting after this is smoking black way more then normal and it I hit the gas it will puff a white cloud right after black.
Can it be not enough fuel to my pump? Any Idea.
Can I mound a electric pump to help

The truck is running fine when not pulling have lots of power

Thanks

 

I would check all the fuel lines from front to rear and check the screen under the lift pump and fuel filter.What readings do you see on your boost and pyro guages?

 

Sounds to me like an injector is getting hot and sticking. Try some fuel conditioner for a tank or two, then try it again. Look around your injectors for signs of leakage. If leaking, remove the injector and clean the hole and reinstall with new gasket.

 

dieselhawg might be on to something. You could have a pin hole leak in a fuel line somewhere letting air in. You may have to put some pressure on the tank, no more than 5 or 10 psi to find a leak if you have one. A stock 95 auto isn't a powerhouse, but it shouldn't sputter and die on you.

I sticking injector won't kill it. It would miss on that cylinder.

 

Did the diesel shop change the fuel filter? I think there's a pre-filter screen on the 2nd gens, that ought to be checked as well.

 

Did they check fuel pressure? Most shops don't have the fitting to do it on a 12 valve.
If not replace the overflow valve.
Replacing the OF valve is a five minute one wrench job if you don't drop the sealing washers, stuff a rag under the valve to catch a falling washer. Remove the old valve and put new one in it's place. Occasionally the notch in the manifold you see to the left of the OF valve in the picture needs to be filed or ground a little to allow the old valve to be removed. Don't bend the line to remove the valve, it will make it very difficult to line up again. New style OF valves don't always have the retainer on top that says not to remove, don't worry it's just a design change.

The object in the lower left corner is the oil fill cap.


You won't find a better price on an overflow valve than here

Precision Diesel Injection and Turbo Inc.
Marty Tompkins
888-734-7349
$35 + $7 shipping and handling.

 

The fuel filter was changed when I got the performance parts installed.
They did check for fuel pressures.
I don’t have any gauges on yet that is next week.
I'm just thinking it might be fuel pressure even they said they checked it.
Can a pre pump fail on and of sometimes under load?

Prefilter screen are you talking about the one in the tank?

Thanks

 

The lift pump either works or it doesn't, never ran into one that was intermittent.

The prefilter is the the fuel heater, service instructions here http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/filter/pre-filt_clean.htm
highly recommend that you get at least the quad ring before you start as they often fall apart during servicing

There is also a screen on the bottom of the fuel tank module but it rarely clogs due to the sloshing of fuel unless your fuel is really dirty.

 

Ok I installed a pressure gauge and I'm running 29psi, is that normal.
I had to order fuel pressure and exhaust temp gauges they did not have them in stock

 

29 psi is great, was that at full rpm?
If so no need to check filters.
Besides a bad injection pump the only other thing I can think of is a clogged cat.

 

That is just before shifting, so I think it would be @ full rmp
I don’t have a cat on this truck I took it off when I got the 4'' exhaust installed.
So you think it is my ID pump

 

Unfortunately it seems to be pointing in that direction.
Some folks have mentioned injectors, I don't think so personally but have been wrong before.
Getting the injectors popped tested would be a heck of a lot cheaper than having the pump rebuilt though.

 

Ok I'm going to install a pressure gauge for the fuel. I have one on order, but until then I want to install a temporary one where can I get the pressure from?
Is there a port on the pump or do go between the 2 pumps.
I'm planning to do this tomorrow so please help ASAP.

Thanks

 

There is no real easy way on a 12 valve.
Best way is to remove , drill and tap the injection pump inlet banjo bolt with a 1/8" port. If you can drill and tap for a pyro this is a piece of cake. You will also have to install a mostly closed needle valve or gauge snubber in the line to the gauge or the it will swing so wildly due to lift pump pulsations that it will be impossible to read in the few minutes before the gauge self destructs.

Needle Valve on Tapped Banjo

 

what about the timing?