hello , im a newbee writing in , usually i just sit back and read for info but this is a new one to me . 2000 3/4 long bed 4x4 auto cummins 119,000 miles , new vp, lift pump and big line kit at 108,000 . my truck cranks real strong but wont start has fuel in the filter ( full )and the lift pump pumps(new fuel filter 100 miles ago) . i opened the injector lines and cranked for a while (stopping inbetween ) 1 and 2 are dry 3 and 4 and 5 small amount of fuel out of line (drip) and left #6 closed , i added another 5 gallons to the tank (just incase) and getting NO CODES on the dash only P DONE, NOW WHAT ? HELP PLEASE

 

what is the lift pump pressure to vp? is the tach moving off zero when cranking? If pressure and volume of fuel are good, and tach is moving to 200 or so, then VP is toast. If you used a stock lift pump, I have seen them go bad in short order.

 

I went id the same thing happen to me 2 months ago. I let the truck warm up in the morning then hit the highway. 3 miles and she shut off. I have a 99 with the 24 v. Same syptoms as yours and it was the vp44. It took me a 2 hours to change it.

Good luck
Rick

 

OK, the tack is moveing to 125 - 250 speedo stays at 0 fuel ect.. move to where they should and the gage is down to 8 psi ouch , had a hunch it is the vp
its just hard to belive that it went that quick , really loosing confidence in this rig quick ( last vp went 3 am on the 58 outside 4 corners c.a , wish i owned a tow rig after that bill ) any other thoughts other than the vp? relay swithches ect...?

 

okay then, the crank sensor is working, lift pump is working, sound like the injection pump is bad, sorry

 

i guess there is no way around it , any thoughts on which vp is best (wouldnt mind the power from the h. rod pump ) just need the dependibility also any body know any thing on these fuel boss mech. pumps thanks again for the reply .

 

Read up the info on the BlueChip web site. They have an explanation on the failure of rebuilt VPs, if you get one that had like a diaphragm problem, they could have fixed it cheaply and re-sold the VP, but loose bores could have been left in, causing failure in near future. This is why I am preparing myself to buy a BlueChip if (or rather, when) my VP goes.
-P

 

try changing that valve on the return side of the IP,its cheap and and worth a shot..most likely your VP though

 

check valve $30.00...IP $1200 plus...lets see...check valve!!!!!!!!!!

 

thanks for the helpn on this one guys, about the check valve will try to get to it asap? any pics links ect for this?