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Will not start... wait to start light not showing

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Old 08-22-2006, 12:03 PM
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Will not start... wait to start light not showing

Truck went dead at a stop sign, no warning, have plenty of fuel in it.
It's a 1997 3500, custom plate, gauges, DTT Auto, big exhaust.... I replaced the fuel sht off solenoid less than a year ago. I've check all my fuses, also the two relays that mount on the fire. the fuel sht off noid doesn't go up when the key is turned, if i manual push it up and have someone start the truck, the truck will run until i let the fuel sht off noid go. i've zipp tied the fuel sht off noid in the up position to get it home but could not turn the truck off with the key switch. had to cut the zipp tie. also notice that while limping home with the zipp tie on my tach was not working(with igntion, key in on postion) and trans would not start in low, i had to manual shift, but if i manual put it in low 1 the brakes lock up, had to start out in low 2, and shift into drive, it would not go to overdrive.
thanks in advance for any help. and forgive any missed spelled words i was rushing.
Old 08-22-2006, 12:44 PM
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can 97's do the "key on key off 3 times trick" and get codes?
Old 08-22-2006, 01:17 PM
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I don't think the 97 will do the key trick;

Sounds like you've isolated AN issue to the Solenoid, can you see if the voltage to it changes when the key is turned on? No tach.... that sounds like the camshaft position sensor, which might (if bad / not reading) also shut the fuel off, and/or put the truck in Limp mode, causing the 2nd gear start-off's....
Old 08-22-2006, 02:09 PM
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thanks guys, i will check the voltage on the fuel sht off noid, where is the camshaft sense, is it easy to get to, and check to see if it works.
Old 08-23-2006, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Rauschbo
I don't think the 97 will do the key trick
YES they will....
Old 08-23-2006, 11:44 AM
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I found one of my batterys was bad....i'm going to replace it today....my voltage gauge was reading around 11.5....will that cause all my problems?
Old 08-23-2006, 12:54 PM
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I do believe that may be the source - pls post the results of swapping.....I've heard MANY people advise to swap out BOTH batteries at the same time, as one remaining old battery will draw the new one down.....
Old 08-23-2006, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Rauschbo
I do believe that may be the source - pls post the results of swapping.....I've heard MANY people advise to swap out BOTH batteries at the same time, as one remaining old battery will draw the new one down.....
X2 Save yourself some dough in the long run and change them both now, other wise it may leave you with the same problem later down the road.
Old 08-23-2006, 09:45 PM
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A stab in the dark but since I was a tech at chrysler for a while (did not work on the diesels)I remember doing multiple ingnition wiring switch recalls and it could be possible that is the issue. I am not sure it applied to the diesels though I recall a few that came in dead as a result of the wiring melting at the switch and it would melt going into the igniton switch as well melting the conectors together. Would need a wiring diagram to verify if the auto shut off relay operates directly to that source for power.

Since the batteries are wired together I find it hard to believe you can get it to run (start) and that would not be enough to trip the relay on after running.

For sure replace batteries as a pair like others mentioned.
Old 08-29-2006, 09:39 AM
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It was not the battery's still looking for answers.
Old 08-30-2006, 09:36 AM
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I found a blown fuse to engine after all. not sure where the short is. i replaced the fuse and the truck started up with no problem.
Old 08-30-2006, 10:32 AM
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what fuse was it??? just wondering
Old 09-04-2006, 12:01 PM
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It was the 10amp fuse to the engine, located inside the drivers side door. I also had a died battery on the driver side. I'm not sure if a short resulting from the low batt. voltage caused it. I've replaced the batterys and the fuse. I've been driving without a problem for about a week now.
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