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Difficult repair decision.. need advice

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Old 04-11-2007, 12:50 PM
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Difficult repair decision.. need advice

I have a front axle u-joint that is almost wasted. It's still in one piece, but it's making some interesting noises and shaking the wheel quite a bit. I've replaced dozens of u-joints myself, but I'm in a tight spot: I'm about 150 miles away from my tools/shop.

Do I dare take the risk of driving it to where I can do the work or do I let it go to the dealer/local repair facility?

I hate the thought of someone hammering on my oh-so-expensive hub bearing assembly when it doesn't want to come out or breaking the axle seal or worse. I realize most mechanics are competent, but I have bad luck...

Advice? Thanks!
Old 04-11-2007, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ClackClack
I have a front axle u-joint that is almost wasted. It's still in one piece, but it's making some interesting noises and shaking the wheel quite a bit. I've replaced dozens of u-joints myself, but I'm in a tight spot: I'm about 150 miles away from my tools/shop.

Do I dare take the risk of driving it to where I can do the work or do I let it go to the dealer/local repair facility?

I hate the thought of someone hammering on my oh-so-expensive hub bearing assembly when it doesn't want to come out or breaking the axle seal or worse. I realize most mechanics are competent, but I have bad luck...

Advice? Thanks!

Where are you currently at? I have never tried replacing a u-joint, need a lift? or can it be done without? I am in central Ohio and will help if I can.
Old 04-11-2007, 01:28 PM
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Thanks very much for your generous offer. I'm not stranded and the truck still goes, but I'm in a crappy apartment here in cowtown and my tools are in the barn in Akron (second home). I'm just trying to figure out if I should roll the dice and drive it to Akron where I can do the job for $25 or have the dealer do it here in Columbus for $400. It can be done on the ground; I've always done it that way. It can be real fun to get the bearing out!

It's a tough call, but the more repair facilities I talk to the more I'm inclined to drive it up north!
Old 04-11-2007, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ClackClack
Thanks very much for your generous offer. I'm not stranded and the truck still goes, but I'm in a crappy apartment here in cowtown and my tools are in the barn in Akron (second home). I'm just trying to figure out if I should roll the dice and drive it to Akron where I can do the job for $25 or have the dealer do it here in Columbus for $400.

It's a tough call, but the more repair facilities I talk to the more I'm inclined to drive it up north!

Yeah I have a hard time finding places in Columbus where I can get reliable work done - I am originally from the Dayton area and have people I trust back there, but never know where to go around here. Good luck with it, I obviously don't know your truck or how bad it is, But I would take a guess you could make it to Akron, just be nice to it.
Old 04-11-2007, 02:13 PM
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can you buy some really cheap parts store tools and disconnect it for the drive home?
Old 04-11-2007, 02:29 PM
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Check out my post about getting the bearing out. About 50$ worth of tools from Walmart and do the job yourself. I know the weather is crappy and all, but WAY cheaper than most repair shops would charge. Good Luck!

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=145384
Old 04-11-2007, 02:40 PM
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To help you get home, go and buy a pint or a quart of gear oil. One of the small plastic bottles with the small spout may work. Rotate the bad u-joint until each bearing assembly is at the bottom. The bad bearing will probably have the seal destroyed already, so slowly work some oil into the bearing. Repeat for the other three bearings, rotating the drive shaft each time until the bearing you want to lubricate is at the bottom. If the seal is obviously still OK, then chances are good that the bearing is still OK and no oil is necessary, but it may not do any harm to pry the seal to one side and work some oil in.
This is only a stop-gap method to get you home and nothing else. The bad bearing (probably only one out of the four) will probably be bone dry, so the addition of ANY lubricant will help for a few miles, hopefully enough for the drive home. To ensure that the bad bearing stays lubricated, stop every 40 or 50 (or less) miles and add a bit more oil.
Let us know if it held together long enough to get you home.
Old 04-11-2007, 04:50 PM
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If you're going to try to lube it some and drive home you might consider going to NAPA and getting one of their syringe grease attachments. It fits into the grease gun like a zert and you can inject grease into the dry brg.
Old 04-13-2007, 07:25 PM
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Thanks for the replies, folks. I did the oil trick and it quieted down. Looks like the bearings are intact, but were dry. I'm going to make the drive in the morning and replace the joints as soon as I get there. I'll update and if I remember I'll take pictures of the process for all to enjoy!

Thanks!
Old 04-15-2007, 10:13 AM
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Trip successful, new u-joint is in, but not without incident. When I pulled the rotor, I noticed the ABS sensor had a crack in the housing where the bolt goes through as though it had been overtightened at some point. The rotor had the factory clippy-do's on the wheel studs so it must have been a factory thing (was this truck built on a Friday at 5pm?) It was working and I should have left well enough alone, but I was worried about water getting into the bearing so I pulled the sensor and it came out in 2 parts! It's now Sunday and no way I'm going to get a new sensor... that's a bad day! The sensor is in the hole and sealed so it's driveable but I have an ABS light now so I guess tomorrow it will be sensor time.

I guess I should have left it alone until I had a new sensor in hand. Hindsight being 20-20, we live and learn.
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