Its not a CDT but a cummins did pull it home

Im putting this here because it seems that the people on this site really know their stuff.

Today I get a phone call about a 2001 sebring (gasser) is broke down on the side of the road. It just died. No noise...no codes. It starts and runs for a few seconds when its hot. If you let it set for an hour then it will run for about a minute and then die (after that it wont start until you wait again)

Any ideas on what it would be?

 

I would check to make sure you are keeping good fuel pressure at the rail. COuld be something as dumb as a fuel filter. Maybe some kind of sensor??

 

It has happend to me with some of my cars. Both times it was a cracked distributor cap. Never could see a crack but after replacement car ran fine. But 2001 I assume is electronic ignition so I would look around the ignition area. It has been raining a lot down there, something may just be wet.

 

Which Sebring? Convertible or coupe? Which engine? Depending on the model it could be the cap possibly, but I have seen them have a lot of bad distributors. There is a TSB on them in fact for a bad solder joint too IIRC. I'll see if I can find it.

 

Sorry, that TSB was for the older sedans with a 2.5L . Yours is either a 2.4 or a 2.7L . I am assuming the 2.4L and the ignition coil pack is a very common problem on them too. Fairly cheap and easy to install. 4 10mm bolts and one plug in. No cap on these vehicles. Let me know if you need any more info if it has a different engine, ect.

 

thanks for the help.

the engine is a 2.7 v6 sedan.

Why doesnt it have any spark plug wires?

 

It has coil on plugs. Each plug has it's own coil and a small boot that is essantially the plug wire, but you have to take the coil off to see it. It is part of the coil. Sounds more like a crank or cam position sensor to me now, knowing what engine it has.

 

do you know where those sensors are located on this engine. this car is so hard to work on...everything is so compact

 

REMOVAL - 2.7L
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the air cleaner box.
Disconnect the electrical connector from Crankshaft position sensor (Crankshaft Sensor - 2.7L).
Remove bolt.
Remove sensor.

 

just a thought but if it was a sensor wouldn't it throw a code?


do you know what the fuel pressure should be I'm going to test that also

 

Sometimes, then again, sometimes not. Do you have a scanner? I don't know if the key on/off cycle works on the cars. Do you have a fuel pressure guage? Need to check some basics, I'm just throwing out some ideas.

 

I had that happen on a car I used to drive before I discovered the CUMMINS. Turned out the diaphram in the electric fuel pump would stretch with heat. Cold ran fine, warm it up and it would die.

 

i have a scanner but it only works on corvette motors so thats no good.

I do have a fuel pressure guage but wheres the fuel rail in this car? I looked all over an didnt see it unless its under that ridiculous intake manifold

 

Yeah, it is kinda hard to get to. You have to have a special tool to go inbetween the fuel rail and the fuel line that hooks to it. A jumper hose basically that has a tee in it that you can hook the pressure guage up to. All the way at the back of the engine under all the air ducts if I remember right.

 

hey vzdude. you wouldnt happen to have the procedure on removing and replacing the fuel pump handy would you. Im going to replace the fuel pump tomorrow.