Sure....here ya go!

REMOVAL
Remove fuel filler cap and perform Fuel System Pressure Release procedure.
Disconnect negative cable from battery.
Drain fuel tank dry into holding tank or a properly labeled GASOLINE safety container.
Raise vehicle on hoist and support.
Use a transmission jack to support fuel tank. Remove bolts from fuel tank straps.
Lower tank slightly.
Disconnect the fuel filler vent tube.
Disconnect fuel line and vapor line.
Disconnect the vacuum line from the LDP.
Disconnect fuel filler tube by loosing the clamp and removing hose.
Slide fuel pump module electrical connector lock to unlock . The fuel pump module electrical connector has a retainer that locks it in place (FUEL PUMP MODULE LOCATION).
Push down on connector retainer and pull connector off module.
Lower tank from vehicle (FUEL TANK) and (ORVR AND EVAP COMPONENTS).


REMOVAL
Release fuel pressure, Refer to Fuel System Pressure Release Procedure in the Fuel Delivery section.
Remove Fuel Tank refer to the Fuel Tank Removal/Installation in this group.
WARNING: THE FUEL RESERVOIR OF THE FUEL PUMP MODULE DOES NOT EMPTY OUT WHEN THE TANK IS DRAINED. THE FUEL IN THE RESERVOIR WILL SPILL OUT WHEN THE MODULE IS REMOVED.

Disconnect fuel line from fuel pump module by depressing quick connect retainers with thumb and fore finger.
Slide fuel pump module electrical connector lock to unlock.
Disconnect the electrical connection from the fuel pump module, by pushing down on connector retainer and pulling connector off of module.
Use Special Tool #6856 to remove fuel pump module locknut (FUEL TANK LOCKNUT).
Remove fuel pump and O-ring seal from tank. Discard old seal.

 

Can you tell me what A and B are?
Normally I would say that B was the intake pump but what is A?

 

A- leak detection pump/vapor canister- emissions fun
B- fuel pump module-

 

is there a trick for removing that fuel pump? I see it twist counter clockwise but that edited by admin is TIGHT on there. Im starting to bend the metal teeth that lock it in there

 

I believe on that type of module there is a catch you have to release before you can turn the top of the module.

 

Hammer and pry bar works for me. My pry bar does have a pretty blunt tip on it to. A little penetrating lube will help too. Make sure to get all the dirt and dust away from it before you pull it out of the tank or it will fall into the tank too! It should walk around with some solid blows.

 

I did get it scanned and it had no codes. Very strange. I replaced the fuel pump anyways. I couldnt find the fuel filter...I guess its on the pump.

 

Yup, the fuel filter is an internal part of the pump assy. Did the fuel pump get it running or is still dead on the road?

 

We took it out today and got about 2 miles down the road. It didnt hesitate it just died. I pushed it out of the road and then I started it right back up and it idled for about 3 seconds and then died. Then I tried to start it again and it would turn over but not catch.

I went to eat and came back about 1 1/2 later and started it up and drove it back home.

Ive replaced the fuel pump and the spark plugs. (they literally have 2 miles on them)

What else could it be?
Does it have a distrubutor cap? its a 2.7liter 4 (when I changed the plugs I noticed that the car had coil packs so I would assume its electronic ignition and there is no distrubutor cap?

 

Sounds like maybe a crank sensor, or cam sensor. I know you checked for codes, do you have a scanner or something to be able to read the data stream? If so, look at the cam and crank signal. Make sure they are both reading when it won't start.There is also a synch state. It should say cam/crank if they are o.k. The crank sensor is kinda likely. I've seen them do the same thing. The cam sensor should only show a light when it goes bad. It is used basically to get the engine going - shows computer when #1 is at TDC. The crank sensor should do the same thing by the different spacing on the tone ring. It just takes more revolutions to get teh engine to start using crank sensor only. Thats why they put the cam sensor in , to get the engine started quicker. So to make this long story shorter, next thing I would replace would be the crank sensor. You might save some money though by having it diagnosed by someone with a scanner. Would have saved the fuel pump money at least.

 

thanks scott. im going to get the crank sensor now. thanks so much for the help

 

No prob, but my name is Andy ! No biggie though!

 

i had to order the part so it should be in today.

can you tell me where the fuel filter is located on this car.
i looked all along the bottom of the car and did not see it.

 

See previous post! LOL

 

you need to do basics first... before buying any more expensive parts!
when trouble shooting, I'd replace fuel filter before changing out pump.

intermittent problems are the worst and hardest to track down.

first things, first. you need to determine if problem is caused by fuel, electrical or mechanical failure.

get a can of starter fluid ready, then take off air filter. when motor dies... spray starter fluid into intake. if motor starts right up and runs for a few seconds until fuel is gone. your problems is on the fuel side. repeat several cycles to confirm.

if it makes no difference and motor still will not start with fuel available (starter fluid). then your problems is likely on electrical or mechanical side. once you confirm which direction to go... than perform which ever tests is appropriate.

a clogged fuel filter or bad crank sensor can produce very similar symptoms. before cracking fuel lines and checking for proper fuel pressures and/or replacing expensive parts. do your basics..