I have a '99 24V Cummins / 2500 Quad Cab with a cracked exhaust manifold, and I can't locate ANY oem replacement, only the 3-piece ATS aftermarket set up; Is this worth the $460 tag, or should I stick with OEM - and where can I find the factory part?!?!

HELP!!!

Much thx....

 

Where is the crack? If it is easy to get to you can drill holes at each end of the crack and weld it. The reason for drilling the holes is to stop the crack from spreading as you weld.
Hope this helps
Good Luck

 

if your going to buy new go with the 3 pc set up,it allows room for expansion and will give you no more problems...also lowers your e.g.t.

 

Go with the ATS.... I didn't know any better when mine was replaced. :'( :'(

 

[quote author=Rauschbo link=board=13;threadid=23536;start=0#msg221260 date=1071058054]
should I stick with OEM[/quote]

If you want the same problems, or don't mind the same problems, then yes. Where to find an OEM part? The Dealer,, Most all used manifolds are cracked. This is from a bad design in the 24V Exhaust manifiold. The Exhaust manifold gets hot, and expands at different rates, and cracks right between the front and rear 3 cylinders, juast about right in the middle where the turbo mount is.

Drop me a PM. I can get a ATS Manifold drop shipped to you for a bit cheaper than that $460 you quoted.

The ATS maifold is a PAIN to put on. I am not a man to cuss, but when I was putting the manifold on, I was inventing new cuss words left and right.
The 3-piece has to be assembled,, with the center section froze, and the outsides heavily warmed (in the oven). Then they will slip together much easier.
The 9mm Allen bolts are the biggest pain in the butt! Without a ball end allen wrench, you aren't going to get a couple of them torqued down without a vice-grip plier. I would suggest replacing them with a grade 8 bolt, atleast on the few that an allen wrench is nearly impossible on, although it's not necessary.

Be very careful with the bolts, as they are stronger then the head, and if they strip,, they bolt will be somewhat damaged, but the head will be stripped, and you'll have an exhaust leak to no end (unless you tap the head).

My $.02

Merrick

 

Thx for all the info - I had resigned myself to the ATS - even BEFORE I saw the out-the-door tag on the OEM was ~$544!!!!

Merrick - shhot me a reply if you can hook me up on the ATS; Does that include teh gasket set?

Thx again -

Rauschbo

 

Usually the gasket set is extra, but you should still be able to get hooked up with the ATS AND gaskets for less than the OEM manifold!

 

[quote author=Rauschbo link=board=13;threadid=23536;start=0#msg221711 date=1071109699]
Merrick - shhot me a reply if you can hook me up on the ATS
[/quote]

You have mail....

Merrick

 

Great up grade ;D, you can go directly through ATS and get one for $400 + shipping. Like MCummings said the allen bolts supplied are a pain, the grade 8 hex head bolts is an excellant suggestion. I didn't have any trouble assembling mine but it's a 12v so might be a different. Good luck .

ramguy

 

One other thing to remember is to re-torque the bolts after driving it a day or so...they will loosen a bit, and if you don't check them again, they can fall out. :-[

Off the top of my head, I believe the torque is set at 32 ft lbs.

 

[quote author=MCummings link=board=13;threadid=23536;start=0#msg221447 date=1071079019]
[quote author=Rauschbo link=board=13;threadid=23536;start=0#msg221260 date=1071058054]
should I stick with OEM[/quote]
The 3-piece has to be assembled,, with the center section froze, and the outsides heavily warmed (in the oven). Then they will slip together much easier.

Merrick
[/quote]

Far be it from me to argue but the ATS on the truck I just bought for my son looks like you would heat the center part and chill the ends since the ends slip into the center part. I have not installed one yet so I am only thinking here.

Be real careful on the torque. In this case, a little more is not a little better. Some people have a tendency to raise the torque value which prevents the manifold from moving the few thousandths of an inch when it heats up. That is part of the reason the stock manifolds have the pipe like spacers on the manifold bolts to allow a slight movement.

Just my two pennies here.

 

[quote author=Dieseldude4x4 link=board=13;threadid=23536;start=0#msg222243 date=1071185089]Far be it from me to argue but the ATS on the truck I just bought for my son looks like you would heat the center part and chill the ends since the ends slip into the center part.[/quote]

Well, Now that you mention it.... I think you are correct.

I installed mine over two years ago. I didn't do any heating, or chilling. I used a dead blow type hammer and a piece of board, and fitted, and re-fitted, and re-fitted, and re-fitted.

Merrick

 

I will give you a tip for assembling the manifold that I did and it worked out great. Take off the old manifold, bolt the center section to it backwords. Put good antisieze on the joints and use a non damaging hammer, I used a lead hammer and rap the ends in till the bolts are centered, bolt them together. The manifold will just bolt up like the OEM then. Worked great for me. I still have problems with the rear bolts working loose though, lost one of the allen bolts and used the original bolts in the rear end, a lot easier to keep tight.

 

- thanks again for all your help! I've an ATS manifold on the way, got some extra tips from Merrick in installation of same -

....again, thanks;

See you on the Performance upgrade pages!

Rauschbo