Broke a Bolt! Please advise
#46
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No, it "stacks" the bead up, and the flux fills up the threads, thus protecting them. Once you have the bead stacked all the way up and out of the hole, what I do is drop a nut over it and weld the nut to the stacked up bead with 7018, then get after it with an impact gun, out she comes! I've pulled out MANY idler cap bolts out of D-10s that way and numerous other things. It's amazing stuf---BTW it's made by "X-ergon"
#47
Registered User
Thread Starter
Finally back to the truck after the holidays.
Radiator is out, still not enuf room to get anything straight on or use a mallet/hammer to get a good straight punch to start a drill
tried but drill is walking over...
I'm ready for a shortcut..I'm fine with peen and green wicking the dowel
Since the broken bolt has red locktite in the threads,
any chance I could use JB weld or Permatex weld stick to try to make a head to connect to the broken bolt shaft?
Or is there just no way that would help...
I know I"m wimping out after all the great advice, its mostly a matter of space...and now my internet is acting intermittent,...just when I need it most, so forgive me if I don't respond right away but I'll keep trying
thanks a bunch
Radiator is out, still not enuf room to get anything straight on or use a mallet/hammer to get a good straight punch to start a drill
tried but drill is walking over...
I'm ready for a shortcut..I'm fine with peen and green wicking the dowel
Since the broken bolt has red locktite in the threads,
any chance I could use JB weld or Permatex weld stick to try to make a head to connect to the broken bolt shaft?
Or is there just no way that would help...
I know I"m wimping out after all the great advice, its mostly a matter of space...and now my internet is acting intermittent,...just when I need it most, so forgive me if I don't respond right away but I'll keep trying
thanks a bunch
#48
Registered User
any chance I could use JB weld or Permatex weld stick to try to make a head to connect to the broken bolt shaft?
I wouldn't worry one bit about the headless bolt, the case isn't going anywhere.
#49
You may need to shop for the right tool for the job. It sounds to me like a 90 angle drill is in your future. the boys in our aircraft fab shop use these in the smallest of spaces to do this exact job without tearing up tens of thousands of dollars worth of parts.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...egreeangle.php
http://www.skygeek.com/ats-pa60-051.html
You can cheaper ones at Harbor Freight
I think this (or something similar) is what you need along with some good extractors
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...egreeangle.php
http://www.skygeek.com/ats-pa60-051.html
You can cheaper ones at Harbor Freight
I think this (or something similar) is what you need along with some good extractors
Last edited by PChouinard; 12-29-2008 at 06:16 PM. Reason: more info
#50
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Thread Starter
Silly me,
I think that what's in front of the intercooler is the air conditioning cooler.
So removing the intercooler doesn't really matter, it won't give me that much more room...I was just hoping I could get a straight look while I drill...
I'm going to try again on the bolt...I'm just worried that Im going to tear up the aluminum case. I'll have a go at it again tomorrow...I can see the red locktite in the threads, if I could just grind down the bolt face flat, and get a good punch in the middle, I think I can do it. I can actually get my drill in the space, just can't look at where Im going.
I'll check out the 90 angle drills, maybe I can handle one more straight on
I was hoping to say I was done when I came back here, but nope not yet.
I think that what's in front of the intercooler is the air conditioning cooler.
So removing the intercooler doesn't really matter, it won't give me that much more room...I was just hoping I could get a straight look while I drill...
I'm going to try again on the bolt...I'm just worried that Im going to tear up the aluminum case. I'll have a go at it again tomorrow...I can see the red locktite in the threads, if I could just grind down the bolt face flat, and get a good punch in the middle, I think I can do it. I can actually get my drill in the space, just can't look at where Im going.
I'll check out the 90 angle drills, maybe I can handle one more straight on
I was hoping to say I was done when I came back here, but nope not yet.
#51
Registered User
Thread Starter
I think I'm going to peen and green the dowel pin, and get on with it.
The case surely isn't going anywhere, since I red locktited the other
case bolts.
Unless my mechanic stops by and wants to tackle the bolt, I"m just
gonna pass on it. Why make a "little" problem into a bigger one.
Feeling better already.
#52
Administrator
Infidel, you are always the voice of reason. You haven't steered me wrong yet, and I know I"m not the only one who feels that way.
I think I'm going to peen and green the dowel pin, and get on with it.
The case surely isn't going anywhere, since I red locktited the other
case bolts.
Unless my mechanic stops by and wants to tackle the bolt, I"m just
gonna pass on it. Why make a "little" problem into a bigger one.
Feeling better already.
I think I'm going to peen and green the dowel pin, and get on with it.
The case surely isn't going anywhere, since I red locktited the other
case bolts.
Unless my mechanic stops by and wants to tackle the bolt, I"m just
gonna pass on it. Why make a "little" problem into a bigger one.
Feeling better already.
As he has many of us, I really believe it is your best course of action......
#53
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Join Date: May 2005
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I have taken several bolts out with this method. You will need a small piece of pipe that will fit in the hole. Put it in then put a welding rod through the middle of the pipe attached to the stinger. When all is set in place touch the ground to the pipe.
Then use either a pipe wrench, vice grips, or weld a nut on the end of the pipe. Let it cool before you try to take it out.
Then use either a pipe wrench, vice grips, or weld a nut on the end of the pipe. Let it cool before you try to take it out.
#54
Registered User
Thread Starter
I have taken several bolts out with this method. You will need a small piece of pipe that will fit in the hole. Put it in then put a welding rod through the middle of the pipe attached to the stinger. When all is set in place touch the ground to the pipe.
Then use either a pipe wrench, vice grips, or weld a nut on the end of the pipe. Let it cool before you try to take it out.
Then use either a pipe wrench, vice grips, or weld a nut on the end of the pipe. Let it cool before you try to take it out.
I read your instructions and envision ...well, pretty much me standing in the engine compartment holding a stinger (hot...electric), a welding rod pointed to the ground, connected to a little pipe going into the engine block and as I connect everything together and push the rod to the floor .
I yell....
Brawwghaaaghaaaa, Bolt, you are comin outta there if it KILLS me!
and then it does... LOL
which is why I'm just going to First Do No Harm (well, less..) and move on.
The KDP is peened and greened and not going anywhere, so mission accomplished...just not neat and tidy as I would have liked.
PChouinard, those 90angle drills, are a very slick setup and
I could see tah that working in the limited space I had..
if I hadn't had the option to peen the KDP I would have a good reason to own another cool tool ...
but then there's that "First do "less" harm"
and I feel ok that the broken bolt will hold and the kdp is killed,
so I'm gonna swallow my pride and move on
thanks everybody, watch out....
"she's baaack" next Im gonna do the ps/vacuum pump !
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