Broke a Bolt! Please advise
12-11-2008, 10:43 AM
#16
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Red Loctite is used when you absolutely, positively need to make sure nothing moves.
The bolt in question is 10mm or just a hair over 1/4"
Way too small for a pipe extractor.
With the red it would would have been hard to remove the bolt even if it had a head without heating it. Proof of that is it broke going in.
12-11-2008, 11:24 AM
#17
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wilding is good, just cvr everything so it will not go into the internals,(sparks)
But 1st like said, CENTER punch the crap out of it, start with a small bit and work up to bigger with a good rap once in awhile
But 1st like said, CENTER punch the crap out of it, start with a small bit and work up to bigger with a good rap once in awhile
12-11-2008, 12:01 PM
#18
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Heres another suggestion - get a drill bit the exact size of the bolt and drill it out. Then get the next bigger drill size and drill it out larger. (be very careful here and make sure you measure how deep you are going). Then use a taper tap to cut fresh threads into the larger hole. Install a new bolt with some blue Loctite (242).
12-12-2008, 11:51 AM
#20
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Yes, that's a good solution. If you have a wire welder you can use an oversized nut and reach in the nut and weld the broken bolt to the nut and probably create enough heat to break the Locktite free. Then back the thing out with a wrench. You don't have to worry about centering the drill but either. The nut doesn't have to perfectly centered, but the closer the better.
12-12-2008, 01:39 PM
#22
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All great ideas. If you haven't drilled it out, try an air angle drill w/snap-on bolt extractors. If that does not work, I'd go the route stated above and drill the entire bolt out, clean the threads and be done.
I've extracted bolts lying across motors upside down using an angle drill and mirror. Not fun but it can be done. To bad you're not around SA.
I've extracted bolts lying across motors upside down using an angle drill and mirror. Not fun but it can be done. To bad you're not around SA.
12-12-2008, 04:28 PM
#23
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The trouble with ANY kind of arc weld is where to place the ground clamp in this case. For the arc to strike you must have continuity... through a film of oil, a chain,a gear or a bearing. You may not notice the pitted bearing or gear (from the arcing) right away but failure is very close, it's not worth it. I recommend center punch the bolt, start off small and increase the diameter in steps until you reach core size (that's the size at the bottom of the thread). Often the heat generated while drilling is enough to break the remains free and the few threads left will spin out. At this point a L/H fluted drill would wind it out instead of in. If you get to core size and the bolt threads still remain you can pick them out. The hole can then be cleaned out with a tap.
What about easy outs? well if you break it you are in deep and it's no longer an "easy way out". Good luck.
What about easy outs? well if you break it you are in deep and it's no longer an "easy way out". Good luck.
12-12-2008, 05:32 PM
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12-12-2008, 07:54 PM
#26
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Several times here, they break eze.
The worst was on my Cat D-7, a 1" grade 8 bolt broken about a 1/2" below the surface no way to weld a nut on it. Ended up paying $250 (in '70s dollars) to have a guy come out in the middle of nowhere and remove it with a laser.
If the broken eze-out is big enough sometimes you can hit it with a small welding rod with the welder turned way up. The eze-out will get brittle and will turn to chips when you hit it with a punch.
None of this is going to happen to barngal though.
The worst was on my Cat D-7, a 1" grade 8 bolt broken about a 1/2" below the surface no way to weld a nut on it. Ended up paying $250 (in '70s dollars) to have a guy come out in the middle of nowhere and remove it with a laser.
If the broken eze-out is big enough sometimes you can hit it with a small welding rod with the welder turned way up. The eze-out will get brittle and will turn to chips when you hit it with a punch.
None of this is going to happen to barngal though.
12-12-2008, 07:55 PM
#27
Registered User
Several times here, they break eze.
The worst was on my Cat D-7, a 1" grade 8 bolt broken about a 1/2" below the surface no way to weld a nut on it. Ended up paying $250 (in '70s dollars) to have a guy come out in the middle of nowhere and remove it with a laser.
If the broken eze-out is big enough sometimes you can hit it with a small welding rod with the welder turned way up. The eze-out will get brittle and will turn to chips when you hit it with a punch.
None of this is going to happen to barngal though.
The worst was on my Cat D-7, a 1" grade 8 bolt broken about a 1/2" below the surface no way to weld a nut on it. Ended up paying $250 (in '70s dollars) to have a guy come out in the middle of nowhere and remove it with a laser.
If the broken eze-out is big enough sometimes you can hit it with a small welding rod with the welder turned way up. The eze-out will get brittle and will turn to chips when you hit it with a punch.
None of this is going to happen to barngal though.
12-12-2008, 07:55 PM
#28
Registered User
Several times here, they break eze.
The worst was on my Cat D-7, a 1" grade 8 bolt broken about a 1/2" below the surface no way to weld a nut on it.
Ended up paying $250 (in '70s dollars) to have a guy come out in the middle of nowhere and remove it with a laser.
If the broken eze-out is big enough sometimes you can hit it with a small welding rod with the welder turned way up. The eze-out will get brittle and will turn to chips when you hit it with a punch.
None of this is going to happen to barngal though.
The worst was on my Cat D-7, a 1" grade 8 bolt broken about a 1/2" below the surface no way to weld a nut on it.
Ended up paying $250 (in '70s dollars) to have a guy come out in the middle of nowhere and remove it with a laser.
If the broken eze-out is big enough sometimes you can hit it with a small welding rod with the welder turned way up. The eze-out will get brittle and will turn to chips when you hit it with a punch.
None of this is going to happen to barngal though.
