barngal6

****, I'm killing my KDP
Everything going GREAT, until--

I tabbed the dowel pin, but broke the 10mm bolt that holds the pin washer
I think what happened was i put the drop of red threadlocker
on the 10mm bolt that holds the tab, tightened to feel,
then a friend came by and was talking to me
afterwards, I went to torque the bolt
I thought the torque seemed awfully high,
well about the time I was thinking I should just stop,,
**** bolt broke!

My torque wrench works fine (at least in the past)
so I'm thinking maybe the threadlocker had set?

Now I have to get that shank out...I want to cry

I have the things you drill, in but not sure I can get a drill in there,
and I'm not confident how to do that, I'd hate to strip those threads

Whats the proper procedure, and is there any other option?
(wish I could just glue the tab on...)

I'm waiting for help before I screw it up any further..

rich

use a left hand drill bit to drill it out and then an easy out. if the bolt is sticking then you maybe able to use a chisel to get it out. if you can heat it up to loosen the threadlocker only ideas i have

barngal6

I have a left threaded drill bit,
how large of one should I use?
Itty bitty, or closer to diameter of bolt?

The bolt head has about 3 threads on it, and it is slighty depressed in the middle, so I guess that means the shank has alittle bit of a point in the middle, so I would have to try to punch that to get a good hole to start the drill bit?
Using the lefty drill bit, do I start the drill in reverse?

If I did get the lefty bit in, should I try to heat it while the bit is in,
before I proceed? Gonna have to break that red threadlocker loose...

And whats an easy out? Yikes my stomach hurts...

Guess I can't really remove that cover because all the gears are in there...

rich

ok take a deep breath easy out is a tool you use once the hole is drilled to turn the bolt out. if you can use a little bit and work your way up to a larger one that is smaller then the bolt if their are some threads showing. try using a pair of vice grips on it and try to turn it with those it mite work before you start any drilling

coiler33

Best way to remove it is this way, file the bolt smooth, centre punch the bolt, buy an easy out of appropriate size, use appropriate drill bit for easy out and drill a hole in the bolt, then tap in the easy out with a hammer, use a torch to heat up lock tite then turn easy out with appropriate wrench and all is good.

HOHN

Good advice from Coiler^^

gotslicks

make sure you buy quality easy outs
they are square not like a drill bit
you pound em in and they are cut to grap when used to remove things

imo
punch the bolt
drill straight
make sure the easy out goes infar enough and has enough to bite
remove easyout
heat around hole
then use easyout while still hot

i personally dont like the spiral easy outs because they break!

barngal6

The bolt is in a recessed hole, and then its missing the first 3 threads that broke off with the head,
so to file it I guess i could use a dremmel (i haven't used one before)
to file it flat, or even a little dipped in the middle if I could do it...

What iare the risks, other than stripping the threads in the hole?

Is there a worry about where little bits of the shank might fall back iback behind the case?
Is there anything on the other end of that bolt that I could accidentally drill into and make things worse?

Correct me please,
I start with a normal small drill bit drill in, back it out, then a little bigger one, back it out, then use the lefty drill bit, heat it up, then do I leave that in and get an easy out?
I think I'm mixing up the procedures...

rich

use only left handed drill bits cuz if you use a normal one it will keep tightening it sometimes you can get lucky and when drilling with the lh bit the bolt will work its way out. you shouldnt be able to drill all the way thru the bolt. plug any holes with ragsto prevent the shavings from falling in. no dip flat surface would be best if you can punch a dip in the middle it will help. when you have the hole deep enough remove the bit then insert easy out

barngal6

coilier, goslicks, rich, hohn thanks for your help!
(hope I didn't miss anybody)

yeah, I have the spiral drill bit that I think goes in in reverse,
and I know I didn't pay much for the set....

I will get a quality easy out to do the job; I think my Dad has one...

thanks for encouraging words, I'm gonna wait to do this until
my nerves settle, but I'm feeling alot better now...

I'm just hoping my karma bank is overflowing...or that I'm just lucky..grin

infidel

Is there even enough room in there to drill a straight hole without removing the radiator and coolers?
Be careful eze-outs break pretty easy especally with a small bolt like that.
If I recall the bolt is less than 1/4" diameter.
Not to fret if you can't get it out, Just use a punch to peen over the hole a little where the dowel pin could escape and hope the remaining four bolts hold the case on. They should.

CC149

If you want a quality easy out go to a hardware or auto parts store and ask for a pipe extractor. They are fluted, drive in after the hole is drilled, and have a collar that is slid down to the work surface. I have used them MANY times and have not failed to get a broken screw out. I have found out the hard way they do not work with brass jets though. Do not ask me how I know this. LOL

Jim

oldblues

hi
here is an idea i have used several times with broken studs .

go to harbor freight and get a set of the diamond tiped 1/8 " shanked dremil bits .

take the small round one and working -SLOWELY-with light preasure , simply grind out the stud by boring through it first then inlarging the hole untill there is nothing left but the threads ,
clean the rest out with a dental pick and a tap , small magnet .

work slowely and it will take you app 20 min to remove it perfectly .

cover the area with paper towels to catch the filings /grindings /chips .

patdaly

Barngal, much good advise here, especially Infidels.

That being said, I couldn't leave it like that either, so here is a key point, you HAVE to kill the threadlocker to have any chance of success, Red Loctite is used when you absolutely, positively need to make sure nothing moves.

A Propane torch will work to heat it, Acetylene with a small tip would be better, you could concentrate the heat on the screw much better, but the bottom line is you need to get the threadlocker above 400 degrees to break it down. Aluminum starts to melt at 12-1300 degrees, so there is the range you need to keep it in. I would think it would be difficult to get enough heat from a small propane torch to actually melt the cover, but be a careful.

98whitelightnin

I no nobodies gonna like this but when I broke a exhaust manifold bolt off flush a buddy of mine welded a nut on the end of it and the backed it right out. We have done this many times in the past and it always worked well.