banks/ats etc "high ram" intakes
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
banks/ats etc "high ram" intakes
The question is do they really impact perfomance all that much or is this the type of upgrade that really is not useful flowing more air unless you have bigger turbos+injectors+meth etc? They look like a great upgrade but that is just it, they LOOK good but does it make a difference at all? Those of you running them on a mostly stock set up would you recommend them?
thanks guys
~hek
thanks guys
~hek
#2
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Baltimore, MD
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The question is do they really impact perfomance all that much or is this the type of upgrade that really is not useful flowing more air unless you have bigger turbos+injectors+meth etc? They look like a great upgrade but that is just it, they LOOK good but does it make a difference at all? Those of you running them on a mostly stock set up would you recommend them?
thanks guys
~hek
thanks guys
~hek
i dont think they make a difference until you are running in excess of 600hp.
at "The Buck" in pennsylvania they will DQ trucks with a high ram intake because its a "serious modification" but hot rod pumps, injectors, turbo swaps, and any electronic tuning device can be used
#3
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I never heard of any increase in hp or tq. They do look good though but the ones with water/meth fitting is cool but it not that hard to tap out a hole in the stock intake and save a couple of hundred dollars. That is just my opinion.
#5
1st Generation Admin
No matter who's, none of the after market intakes create additional power.
What they DO is open up the bottle neck of the OEM intake horn around those first two mounting bolts. The heater grids themselves are of no consequence. The heater grid housing is another story.
With the restriction lessened, one can add more fuel and THEN you have additional power (or lower EGT's if that's what you're after).
The intake horn is only part of the charge-air plumbing. It works in conjunction with the all the rest of the CA ductwork, Aftercooler, etc.
Upgrading the intake horn would be akin to a step in a professional porting job. Open up the narrow ways, straighten out the bends, etc.
In that shade of light, they all work quite well.
The above is my personal opinion based on personal experience. Not "I heard", or "My buddies uncle had", etc.
What they DO is open up the bottle neck of the OEM intake horn around those first two mounting bolts. The heater grids themselves are of no consequence. The heater grid housing is another story.
With the restriction lessened, one can add more fuel and THEN you have additional power (or lower EGT's if that's what you're after).
The intake horn is only part of the charge-air plumbing. It works in conjunction with the all the rest of the CA ductwork, Aftercooler, etc.
Upgrading the intake horn would be akin to a step in a professional porting job. Open up the narrow ways, straighten out the bends, etc.
In that shade of light, they all work quite well.
The above is my personal opinion based on personal experience. Not "I heard", or "My buddies uncle had", etc.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
thanks for the responses guys, that is what i figured. for my stock set up it just looks good. when i set up my 500hp, 1500lb tq set up the high ram will make functional sense. the twin rams on the 12v sure look good though!
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#8
1st Generation Admin
Those of you who regularly work your truck shouldn't be so quick to dismiss an improvement over the OEM intake horn.
Just because you are allowed more airflow does not mean you have to add the fuel. With that train of thought, you're dead into lowering your EGT's. Especially in the just off idle to low boost range of throttle.
There's a growing number of folks who're willing to take the time and manufacturer equal quality horns for MUCH less. A quick search of DTR and other CTD related websites will prove most informative as to who offers what.
So you've got an air grinder in hand and nothing to do? Knock all the ridges down inside your OEM horn. Enlarge the radius of the curves. Chuck a drum sander and smooth the entire interior surface.
Now take a small drill mounted grinder and open the inner diameter of the heater housing (you'd do well to remove the grids first). Go ahead and port match the bottom to the intake manifold plate. Now port match the top to the intake horn.
Finally, blend them all together and put the grids back in.
Takes a couple of hours if you're slow. You'll be surprised at the improvement.
Just because you are allowed more airflow does not mean you have to add the fuel. With that train of thought, you're dead into lowering your EGT's. Especially in the just off idle to low boost range of throttle.
There's a growing number of folks who're willing to take the time and manufacturer equal quality horns for MUCH less. A quick search of DTR and other CTD related websites will prove most informative as to who offers what.
So you've got an air grinder in hand and nothing to do? Knock all the ridges down inside your OEM horn. Enlarge the radius of the curves. Chuck a drum sander and smooth the entire interior surface.
Now take a small drill mounted grinder and open the inner diameter of the heater housing (you'd do well to remove the grids first). Go ahead and port match the bottom to the intake manifold plate. Now port match the top to the intake horn.
Finally, blend them all together and put the grids back in.
Takes a couple of hours if you're slow. You'll be surprised at the improvement.
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