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Can you run straight (filtered) WMO?

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Old 04-25-2009, 12:26 AM   #91
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yep, my hyd. oil is "about" the same color as #2 In the summer I switch to wmo tho; my 12v just chews up the old piston and bearing chunks and smiles!...

I DO filter my wmo better than the hyd
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Old 04-26-2009, 01:30 PM   #92
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you'll be clogging up your injectors soon... better have a spare set ready.

mine clogged at 90% wmo... much better to run conservative at 50% wmo. it'll go higher depending on viscosity of wmo. for instance used transmission fluid is thinner than motor oils.

your diesel will burn most any oil, but your oil handling equipment is designed to handle fuel the viscosity of #2

general rule is mechanical fuel injected diesels are more tolerant of thicker fuels.

I'm about done with trying to filter out wmo... costs of filters can exceed amount of wmo processed. plans are to setup a centrifuge.

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Quick update here- I got some freeeee Hydraulic oil; used but clean, and it works SO nice!!! I have been a little lazy, and bought a spin-on fuel filter/housing that you buy for a slip tank. I think 10 mic? Then, I bought a CHEAP pump you chuck into a drill, and pump it right into my tank!! At 90% oil, you don't want to sit next to me at a stoplight for long...

I have a 12v, and am at 1000 miles on this tank- I HAD to put 20 gallons of #2 in yesterday
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Old 04-26-2009, 01:36 PM   #93
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2500 I've been sucessful on rates as high as 100% WMO for motor oil & HYD oil but cut down to 50-70% when running 85-140 or 90 wt gear oil though I do save those thicker oils at high rates for warm weather. Unlike some I filter through a 2 micron water seperator several passes before pumping into my tank.
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Old 04-26-2009, 02:27 PM   #94
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me too.. was running 100% new 14-40 motor oils successfully. but you are on borrowed time when running oils that thick. engine also smokes too much on mixtures too thick.

it's not a matter of if, but when your injectors will clog up. not worth the hassles. much better to back off to 50% range.

again... your equipment is designed to handle much thinner fuels. your entire fuel train will pay the price. when I was in experiment mode, had standby parts. like injectors, lift pump, P pump, loads of filters, etc.

I'm pass all that and want to run trouble-free.

just purchased a new super low milege 12v CTD and plan on paying extra close attention to how clean wmo is, before any wmo hits my new CTD. hence why plans on super cleaning all wmo with a centrifuge before using.

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2500 I've been sucessful on rates as high as 100% WMO for motor oil & HYD oil but cut down to 50-70% when running 85-140 or 90 wt gear oil though I do save those thicker oils at high rates for warm weather. Unlike some I filter through a 2 micron water seperator several passes before pumping into my tank.
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Old 04-26-2009, 02:42 PM   #95
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I have cut down on wmo, but on my hyd it seems to thin down pretty good when mixed with even 5 gals #2/45 gals hyd in my slip tank. Then after letting it bounce around in my slip tank till I get to 1/2 tank on my main tank, I will top it off with hyd mix. What are your thoughts on that?
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Old 04-26-2009, 03:49 PM   #96
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I first started running this in my ferd IDI & ran 50% winter 70% summer & put over 40,000 miles on WMO, the problem the IDI had was not running but starting since it was a glow plug motor that was the weak point, that is not a factor with the 12 valve which is why I looked for a year before buying mine. I knew that WMO would be my fuel of choice & the 12v's do better on that than the 24's or the CR's do.
If you don't filter well you will have plugging issues, if you don't cut back in the winter youcan have viscousitiy problems.
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Old 08-05-2012, 04:38 PM   #97
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burn it! run it thru a 20 micro with water block and a 2 micron... during summer you can run up to 75% wmo and during winter I'd stick to 25% or less... stay away from full sythetics if possible
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Old 08-14-2012, 03:21 PM   #98
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Question

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stay away from full sythetics if possible
Why do you say this?
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Old 08-14-2012, 06:58 PM   #99
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Why do you say this?
Some have alot of additives that are designed NOT to burn.. and additives to make gaskets and O-rings expand... stuff you don't want to run through your fuel system
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Old 12-09-2012, 04:54 PM   #100
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Ran a couple 100 gallons of 90% wmo (filtered thru a whole house filter @ 5-10mic) through my heated waste vegetable oil bed tank a few years back and my 03 smoked like an old steam locamotive! Also noticed the stock LP(s) on the filter housing gave up the ghost within a year! (Fortunately they were under warranty). Looking back, I believe the stock LPs failed fast due to ethe constant excessive heat from the heated bed tank or from the nasty nature of the 90% wMo or a combination of both? (Incidentally, I never noticed such early LP failure when runing wVo from the heated bed tank ... although I did notice the stock LPs last the longest when strictly pumping (non-heated) Diesel directly from the stock tank...which is of course what the stock LP was designed to do).
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Old 05-06-2017, 02:54 AM   #101
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I just found this old thread; I have an injector update- At 355k, I popped a head gasket. My injectors were fine, and you could still read the markings on my pistons!! I had my injectors tested.
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Old 05-06-2017, 04:03 PM   #102
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I just found this old thread; I have an injector update- At 355k, I popped a head gasket. My injectors were fine, and you could still read the markings on my pistons!! I had my injectors tested.

That's sounds fairly reassuring... I'm constantly wondering what condition my injectors and pistons are in (from running those tanks of heated waste motor oil over the years((?)) I actually stopped using wmo due to all the excessive/annoying smoke. All I run now is diesel and a 18 gal tank or two of wVo per month. My 03 is just a touch over 150k and so far, so good.

Too bad testing injectors/compression on 3rd gens is such a PIA/expensive or I would have done it by now.
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