ok found about half the paperwork, found the part about tax deductions... ok here it is got the website burnh2o.com, these guys know what there talking about if yon get a chance to go talk to them let us know what you think, even better if you can acculy get a system and let us know if it works. hay TREE DR, didnt you get some gain with your system?

 

Yes I saw some improvements on several vehicles. Some vehicles didn't see any gains. Only had one that showed a negative mpg and that was my 04, had to much H.
Consistancy for my truck seems to be the biggest problem.

 

I havent had a chance to read all of this thread, due to the length. I am at the part where the discussion is about bolts and what type to use. I work for a defense contractor, General Dynamics, and we are currently designing and developing a new APC for the Marines. It goes in the water and made of aluminum. Needless to say, we have our issues with corrosion. All of our fastners are Ti or SS. The SS we use NEVER corrodes, even in the ocean water, and they are in there for days at a time. There are a few reasons for this. The SS we use is considered a "Super Alloy". More specifically it is A286-110 SS. It is the highest grade SS you can get and is typically used in Areospace applications. That is the your best bet for elimenating corrosion. There is one other thing we do in order to fight corrosion, and I hope I dont get in trouble for telling you this.... They are called sacrificial anoids.. They are discs, about 6" in dia. and about 1" thick, made of zinc. The zinc will attract the corrosion to it, hence the sacrifice. It greatly reduces the amount of corrosion we see. So, if you could get a small chunk of Zinc and drop it in there, you will see much less corrosion on the SS. Then you can just pull the Zinc, clean it and reinstall it, only much, much less often.

A286 is very expensive and hard to find, but if you only need a few then it shouldnt be to bad...The hard part is locating it. You can try a company called Fastenal.. I think that is how you spell it. All of ours are custom made and we pay up to $90.00 for one screw (M20x90x1-A286-110).

Hope that helps

 

I was pondering on my way home from work today.... Would it be possible to get the power directly from the alternator? My thinking is that if you were able to do that you would then be increasing and decreasing the amount of current going to the H gen. with RPM. I think that may help the problem with too much fuel at low RPM. Less amps and volts should translate to less H, right? Sorry if this has been covered already, like I said, I have not had a chance to read all 22 pages yet.

 

i scimed through, but i like that idea, im going to lookinto that, that should get me what i want, might be to much current all by it self though so it might need a resistor or something

 

I thought this was interesting.....

http://www.wpbf.com/news/13383827/detail.html

Dan

 

Oh,
it figures: burnh2o is a bit of a drive from me. I usually don't ever get up that way either. Who knows, we will see if I can't make an 'exception'.
Dan

 

I watched a whole segment on that before. The guy actually has an engine that runs on that, with the same concept. Funny how you never hear from them again. Ulitmatly, its the same idea..seperate the H and the O2.. Wonder what happened to that poor guy

 

well millco i figer you can look them up and or call them and see if you think its worth your time at all. these guys are the ones that got me interested in it in the first place, when i talk to them no huge promises of what itd do for me but did let me know what it did for other trucks they had put it on, even had dino numbers and smog sheets. told me the same thing about more not always being better. just think if your that close already and interested its probibly worth your time to look into it. i hope there at the expo agen this yr so i can talk to them

 

Sorry I keep chiming in here but I cant seem to get this out of my head. I was wondering if anyone, with the H gen., has noticed a difference in the exhaust gasses. With my job, we have to use any and all means of data collection. Sometimes that will include exhaust. It can tell you a great deal about what the engine is doing, if you have too much fuel/air. The only thing is that you need a good base line for that. You will have to know what it did prior to introducing something else. I, like most people, have a good idea of how my truck performs and what to expect from the tail pipe so I think I would notice a change.

To get to it, has there been a change in the behavior of the exhaust since the introduction of the H? I think that if you are getting too much fuel, like some people are considering, then you would have a signifigant change in exhaust gasses, such as more smoke, less smoke, white smoke, black smoke, ect.

 

If the alternator is internally regulated wouldn't the output be the same at any RPM?
I've got a friend on here that welds stainless all the time I'll see if he can get me some of it.
I'll see if I can find some zinc also.
Thanks for the information.

 

Everything you will ever need to know about A286

http://www.hightempmetals.com/techda...mpA286data.php

 

Internally regulated or externally regulated; as long as the regulator is hooked up and working, the output will only be what is needed. Up to the max output of the alternator.
To regulate what your h and o2 generator uses, you will have to use a rheostat type device or just do like TreeDr suggested: By regulating how much electrolyte you use, you will regulate how many amps it draws and how much h it will produce. Of course, this won't vary according to engine load or rpm.......
Dan

You won't get in any trouble telling us about sacrificial anodes. It is common knowledge. I didn't know that everyone didn't already know about it. What else don't you all know that I should tell you? HA!
I don't know if the zinc would help in this application. Because of the electroylsis that is taking place right on the cathode and anode and the fact that it is being 'introduced' forcefully; I don't think the zinc would be able to help. Who knows though. It is worth a try......

 

Yeah, I had my 8 year-old Grandson in here (computer room) the other day while I was browsing the DTR threads and he was so bored he went to sleep so I'm sure he wasn't perverted by anything that anyone might have posted that was 'unacceptable' My 17 year-old nephew was sitting here awhile back while I was going thru some forum threads and he just got up and went to town to shoot pool at the bowling alley so ......

 

To regulate what your h and o2 generator uses, you will have to use a rheostat type device or just do like TreeDr suggested: By regulating how much electrolyte you use, you will regulate how many amps it draws and how much h it will produce. Of course, this won't vary according to engine load or rpm.......
Dan

Ok with further studying to be done this is what seems to be happening. I finnally have had some more consistan driveing to test things. I had left my hydrogen unit turned up on max on the (30apm dimmer switch). I had noticed at 65mph or 2000rpm my mpg went up about 3mpg than when I slowed down to 55-60mph. Why would the mpg go up when I went faster. Must be at the right ratio of H and outside air. Another thing I noticed is in town I can get better mpg than I can on the Hwy with the H on max. Just tonight I started adjusting the dimmer switch some to see if the the mpg varied accordingly, it seemed to. Now if I only had a load dyno to set the truck on.
Now all this is mostly just speculation. Like I said it seemed to but with out eliminating outside variables it's hard to be sure without many miles of testing.