Just documenting my WVO setup I've constructed for my 1999 Cummins 24V with the VP44. I should state that I'm not going to run this as a 100% WVO setup. I'll be running a percentage of diesel fuel or Kerosene in the tank with the WVO as well to help reduce the coking effect WVO can have. In any case I've constructed my system with K.I.S.S. in mind. Not so much in overall complexity. But in components.

I'll start with the tank first. It's a plastic marine tank. It's 23 gallons. It fit inside my toolbox. I wanted to be able to have everything hidden out of sight. Best of all, it was only $33. I did have to clean a layer of varnish out of it (lacquer thinner works great!) and I had to replace the sending unit. I picked up a sender from the local marina shop. $33 for it.



I used a Mallory 4060FI fuel pump for the WVO setup. You can get away with a typical vane style pump for diesel. But WVO is to viscus for a vane pump. The oil will cause the vanes to "stick" in place and stop pumping. The Mallory fuel pumps are a gearotor style pump. So they use a gear to pump.

I used a series of fittings to step it up to 1" NPT into a goldenrod filter. The goldenrod filter is nice since it's clear. I can check on the filter media. One of the worries with WVO is polymerization. A traditional screw on cannister filter wouldn't allow you to see this in that event. Next I stepped it down to a tee with a adjustable pressure regulator. This bleeds off excess pressure back to the tank.



From that point the output from the pump/filter/regulator/tank is fed into my hose in hose setup.



The hose in hose is a 1" ID hose with 1/2" aluminum fuel line inside. I drilled out the center of the 1/2" compression fittings to seal them off. There are tees at both ends to allow coolant to pass through. This allows heat transfer. The key to WVO setups. The total length of the hose in hose is about 15ft. So the fuel is heated plenty by the time it reaches the engine. Here's the end that meets the engine.



I fastened the hose in hose along the frame rail. Also I used a 5/8" heater hose for the return.



I tapped off the head for the heat supply. I used a ball valves to adjust flow. It's also a good idea to valve off the coolant flow in and out in the event you have a leak.



The return line is tied back into the heater core return.



Here's a pic of everything plumbed as well.


On to the engine itself. I used a pair of 1/2" check valves. Most people use expensive valves. But in my opinion that's a more expensive means to do so. And leads to failures.

I used a 4 way fitting to allow for a port for my fuel pressure gauge and my warning light as well.


While I was working on all of this I upgraded my diesel fuel system as well. I used 1/2" fuel lines with a 1/2" draw straw. I used AN fittings I picked up from summit racing. I used the 12mmx1.5 to -8AN adapters. And 90def -8AN fittings.

 

The VP44


The new fuel pump for diesel


Now for the return. Since the dodge is a return system. You have to have a selector valve for the return.


Now about the return valve. Since I've got a dual pump setup with check valves. You have to have a delay to keep the selector valve feeding back to the WVO tank for purging. Otherwise you'll pump the WVO from the IP, injectors, and lines back into your diesel tank. I built a timer based off the 555 chip. Crude looking inside, I know, but it works.



Here's a video of the controller in action cycling through sources and a purge cycle.
YouTube - WVO controller with purge cycle

Since I don't smoke I used the ash tray for a holder for the controller. Also notice the fuel gauge.


All said and done I've got about $500 in my setup. So in about 5 tanks it'll be paid for.

Hope this helps, if anyone's interested I can help you with the wiring. That's a documentation all on it's own!

 

Pretty awesome! The only nits I'd pick are:

1) I'd put the fuel pump after the filter to make the filter a "draw through" rather than make it a "push through" system;

2) Aluminum will succumb to the acidic WVO. It will also suffer from electrolysis. Copper would be better, stainless best.

3) The coolant manifold that comes out of the block and extends over the turbo seems "delicate". The engine's vibration may stress it to bits. Maybe it could use some support?

I don't want to sound like I'm knocking your setup, I think it's great. I blew a plastic filter housing off the filter head and switched to a "draw through" setup. Since then, I only get some bubbles in the system when the housing isn't screwed on tight, instead of bio all over the walls. And I've had aluminum fittings corrode on WVO.

I've probably spent three times what I've got in my current biodiesel setup on the 1st and 2nd generations of the thing. You put it together, find a better way, redo it, discover a defect, improve it, on and on, it never stops. I'm on version 3.5 of my processor. The only thing I could want is a stainless steel reactor vessel.

 

Replied within...

I've got a canister style filter I might switch to later on if this one poses and problems.

Also check out your local recycling yard. They typically have stainless steel vessels that might have a little damage. You could pick it up for scrap prices and have it patched for very little. I know my brother in law has two or three I'm thinking about talking him out of. He's just let them sit for years.

 

Great info! A bit off the topic but still about WVO...
How do I dewater the WVO? I am also working on a heat exchanger coil on the exhaust with a stand alone coolant/radiator but if it appears to be more work then gain, I will revert back to the engine supplied coolant.

Scotty

 

We boil it about 300 gallons at a time in a steel vat. Basically we just throw logs under the vat (which is on firebrick) start up a fire. Then pour WVO on the fire to help the burn. We let it boil for about 6-8hrs. We'll end up with probably 250 gallons after that.

 

Just an update. DO NOT USE A GOLDENROD! I thought the head of the filter was aluminum. Turns out, they're zinc! Zinc is terrible when exposed to diesel or WVO. The plating comes off in diesel fuel and passes to the engine. WVO causes polymerization at the head. Allowing the goop to pass on to the engine. In either case, it's not good! So I stopped by tractor supply and bought a cast iron head and a better filter. I noticed a few of the zinc flakes in the diesel fuel left over in the goldenrod today too.



I'm purely on WVO now. Truck is running great. Fuel pressure is rock solid at 22psi. WOT can only pull it down to 19psi. I'm going to pull my timer and do some cleanup on it. I need to install a voltage regulator as the timer sticks at times. I also need to dial in my purge to 2 minutes.

The wife thought the truck smelled better when I parked it in the garage tonight.

 

whoa, thats a lot to take in, but it gives me an idea of how everything works.

thanks for posting everything patracy

 

Just another update. I've got about 200 miles on the setup so far. I noticed yesterday driving home the EGT's are little higher on WVO. I attribute this to the lower cetane WVO has compared to diesel. So I've added a 8oz of Power Service Diesel Kleen + cetane boost. Seems to have a lot more power on WVO now, and EGT's were a little lower this morning. Hopefully I'll get a better idea this afternoon since air temps will be higher.

Here's a pic of the stuff.