You could dial in your lock up with this module....

http://www.atsdiesel.com/ATSWebsite/.../Commander.asp

 

The PCS controller we are using already does everything that module will do and then some. I can program any speed in to the controller for lockup vs. throttle position. It even allows a whole different 2nd calibration that can be used with the flip of a button. Unlock speeds are also programmed at whatever you wish. If I was racing at the dragstrip, it wouldn't be an issue. Hard shifts would be fine.

The issue is leaving the convertor locked during the 2/3 shift or the 3/4 shift. The PCS software has features that would seem to allow the TCC to unlock during the shift however it doesn't work properly.

I almost have all my shift settings and downshift settings finished. I think one more tweak with the laptop and it should be good. I had to readjust everything once I loaded the Smarty TNT tune since it doesn't take much throttle position to get things a rollin'. Wild torque management is flat out awesome!!!!

 

The PCS software doesn't make up for the 48RE. The PCS software gives the unlock command to the 48RE, but the 48RE takes so long to execute the command the shift is completed before it's done. And the lock-up in 3rd gear is very harsh no matter how you program the PCS software.

Peter

 

Sounds interesting, I must have missed that in reading this thread Can you give a link to this software? GW

 

Here's the link to PCS http://www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com/

They wrote the software and made the controller, however ATS makes the standalone valvebody needed to use it with a 48RE tranny.

 

Finally got a laptop home to adjust my tranny settings. First of all, I had my TCC lockup signal set to go from 25 to 100 % over a number of seconds... still to harsh of a lockup. My problem, which is now obvious after talking to the PCS support guys. When it commanded a lockup and starts at 25%, it would already be fully locked at 25%! The 0 to 100 % is how much voltage it sends to the convertor 0 to 12V. So at 3V, it has enough force to lockup the convertor and stop the slipping.

So I revised my table to start at 0 % and go to 100 % over 3 seconds. Much much better now. Not harsh at all, way better. Glad that is fixed.

I also spent most of Saturday getting a newer 3rd gen fan shround installed.
55056985-aa Inner Fan Shroud
55056980-aa Fan Shroud Outer
5139067-aa Fan Shroud Bracket
5139068-aa Fan Shroud Bracket
5139069-aa Fan Shroud Bracket

Over $200 for those parts listed. You will need a few metric bolts as well (got mine locally). Two of the brackets need modifications to make them fit an 03-04 engine. Holes don't line up with the block, so 3/16" flat iron was cut and welded on to have material in the right place to drill a hole to make it work. It was a long process of getting it all lined up, there is about 1/8" to 1/4" clearance between the inner shroud and the fan blades so not much room for error.

The outer fan shroud took alot of hacking up to make it work and I'm still not satisfied with how it looks. I've be revisiting it again later. It slightly interferred with the radiator coolant overflow tank.

I began cutting up my AC hardlines so I can get them welded locally to get the AC system up and running. I'll post pics when it's completed.

Just for those wondering, last tank with half highway and half city driving was 16.6 mpg. Smarty on #7, wild TM, moderate rail pressure. Hoping the mileage will come up some more when I get my rail pressure issue resolved and the engine gets broke in (only 3500 miles on it so far).

 

5.9Excursion,

I must say, that is an excellent job you've done on your wife's rig!! Big Kudos!!

I also just converted (upgraded) my wife's '02 Excursion with a V10, but used a 12v instead of a CR. I'm having the tach issue that you were. I went through Auto World for their tach kit, which, for those of you who don't know, consists of a bracket to hold a factory Ford 7.3 PS crank sensor, the sensor itself (replaces the Cummins crank sensor), and a tone wheel which bolts to the harmonic balancer with a spacer to bring the tone wheel out in front of the harmonic balancer. All quality pieces, by the way.

I see that you used the Dakota Digital tach dumaflochy, wired it in to your alternator and now have tach signal. Can I assume that I can do the same and not use the Auto World setup at all? The only thing that I would be concerned with is that I converted the stock Dodge alt to internal regulation with th TransPo IN8315 regulator kit, so there may be a conflict in electronics.

Do you have any advice? I also plan on contacting Dakota Digital to see what they think.

And yes, I'm looking for a Superduty to convert for myself. This is addicting, liked someone pointed out in a previous post.

Thanks
Rich

 

I think it would work the same way. The signal you are tapping into is in the rectifier circuit and I don't think it would be affected by an internal or external regulator.

 

Mine worked the first time around and it is a 4-pulse wheel, you need to input it into the white with pink stripe which is the aux tach input. Bean also had the same issues last week and we got it to work.

 

So, if I understand correctly, Mo Smoke, I can use the Auto World 4 pulse tone wheel and 7.3 PSD crank sensor setup to drive the V10 gas tach just by using a different tach input wire, not by using my current setup of running the crank pos. sensor through the existing V10 crank pos. sensing wires? It would certainly ease my paon and allow me to finish the tranny programming.

Thanks for the input. I'll look at it as soon as I can.

Rich

 

Yes,

Ground one end of the ford 2-wire sensor to the engine and the other end gets t-tapped into the white/pink tracer pin#48 on non diesel factory equipped pcm. Cut pins 21,22 (crank pos sensor) #85 (cam pos sensor) and see if that flies. :-)

 

Is that pin 48 @ the PCM or the body-to-engine plug, or does it matter, since i assume they would link the engine harness and body harness at the appropriate pin on the PCM? And by t-tap, it leads me to believe that the white/pink trace wire goes to something else, or no? Sorry, can't look @ it yet cuz I work swing, but checked my messages on my lunch break.

Thanks

Rich

 

Pin #48 is at the pcm and is the feed to the instrument cluster but I believe from what Bean and myself have found out you just can't cut it from the pcm and connect the other source to it.

 

Thanks, Mo Smoke. I'll give it a shot this weekend and let you know how it turns out.

 

I just found a few pages I printed out from the Ford Service wiring book that has the Super Duty and Excursion PCM pin number and function listed. According to what I'm looking at, pin 48 in the '02 model year, at least, is "Customer Access 1", which, interestingly enough, is the same color wire as what Ford calls a "clean tach output"(light green/white trace). i haven't pinned it out yet, as I'm heading to work shortly and my wife has the rig, but I'm curious to see if it's the same. If it is, and I'm understanding things correctly from the Ford book, that is an output rather than an input. The only whit/pink trace wire that I found on the diagram that I have is pin 52, which is an ignition coil control wire. I'm not seeing an aux tach input at all on the diagram. Could Ford have just re-named it(No! They wouldn't do that, would they?) Thanks for all the help, Mo Smoke.

Oops, forgot to thank 5.9Excursion as well. I'm still contemplating using the Dakota Digital piece, but i won't if I can get things working with the info fro Mo Smoke.

Rich