Ford Excursion cummins swap (HPCR & 48RE)
Little update, its been very cold so I haven't worked on it much. A few notes though...
The engine computer needs to have voltage before, during, and after cranking to start normally. Per my Ford wiring diagram I though I had this correct. Apparently, (I'm assuming) right now it has voltage when the key is in the run position and in the start position (but not inbetween). So while cranking it fires fine, then when I release the key and it goes back to the run position, it momentarily loses power (engine stumbles too). If the engine is warm it will keep running, however if it's cold, you may have to start it 2 or 3 times. Easy enough to check and correct, just haven't done it yet.
I'm still in need of the wiring harness that goes to the 48RE shift lever position switch (side of the tranny). Right now I have the wiring jumpered so it will start in any gear.
Still need to get the tach working as well.
Also chasing a pulley thats squeeking, not sure which one though.
I just can't get motivated to go work on these things in the cold since she runs excellent.
The engine computer needs to have voltage before, during, and after cranking to start normally. Per my Ford wiring diagram I though I had this correct. Apparently, (I'm assuming) right now it has voltage when the key is in the run position and in the start position (but not inbetween). So while cranking it fires fine, then when I release the key and it goes back to the run position, it momentarily loses power (engine stumbles too). If the engine is warm it will keep running, however if it's cold, you may have to start it 2 or 3 times. Easy enough to check and correct, just haven't done it yet.
I'm still in need of the wiring harness that goes to the 48RE shift lever position switch (side of the tranny). Right now I have the wiring jumpered so it will start in any gear.
Still need to get the tach working as well.
Also chasing a pulley thats squeeking, not sure which one though.
I just can't get motivated to go work on these things in the cold since she runs excellent.
No, Smarty is currently on #8 instead of #9 which helped. I ordered a quadzilla rail pressure gauge to monitor rail pressure (should have it in a week or so). I think its just injector noise. I still plan on swapping injectors to some Flux 1.8's once I get the V10 sold.
I just went from each relay +12 volt terminal to an LED in the dash then thru a resistor (220 ohm maybe?) and then to ground. I have a green LED for each relay. So you can see when either one is on individually. That reminds me, I need to run my transmission VSS signal back to the ECM so the intake heaters get turned off once I pass 25 mph. Currently they run (cycle on/off) until IAT's remain above a certain temp (doesn't take long though).
Not currently, I haven't looked into that one yet. I was thinking the ECM monitors the sensor and then uses a communication bus to talk to the dodge PCM and lets the PCM turn on the light. Since I don't have a dodge PCM, I will need to go another route.
(edit)
I just looked at the wiring, the water in fuel sensor changes resistance based upon water in the fuel (not sure what the range is, or at what point the light should come on though), but we could feed this as an input into the trans controller, and when it reaches a certain point, use a PWM output to drive a LED.
(edit)
I just looked at the wiring, the water in fuel sensor changes resistance based upon water in the fuel (not sure what the range is, or at what point the light should come on though), but we could feed this as an input into the trans controller, and when it reaches a certain point, use a PWM output to drive a LED.
Not currently, I haven't looked into that one yet. I was thinking the ECM monitors the sensor and then uses a communication bus to talk to the dodge PCM and lets the PCM turn on the light. Since I don't have a dodge PCM, I will need to go another route.
(edit)
I just looked at the wiring, the water in fuel sensor changes resistance based upon water in the fuel (not sure what the range is, or at what point the light should come on though), but we could feed this as an input into the trans controller, and when it reaches a certain point, use a PWM output to drive a LED.
(edit)
I just looked at the wiring, the water in fuel sensor changes resistance based upon water in the fuel (not sure what the range is, or at what point the light should come on though), but we could feed this as an input into the trans controller, and when it reaches a certain point, use a PWM output to drive a LED.
So now that I know you are an electrical engineer, I might come up with some questions...

Do you think there's any chance this is do-able? As far as I can tell, nobody sells a stand alone TCM that will work. PCS dumped their project.
When will you have a conversion wiring guide for idiots for sale?
A common rail wiring guide.... hmmmm....
How about a whole kit, wiring guide, wire, connectors, special crimping tool, relays, inline fuses, etc. It would be more expensive but it would contain everything you need to make it look professional. I don't know if there would be enough interest to do it or not.



You have done great work and an awesome swap. Youve got my vote for TOM!!