I've always felt that it isn't up to the power level it should be. With no Smarty loaded, it felt like a dog. Put the smarty on it (SW#8) and it was acceptable, not a slouch, but not up to par.

With the installation of a rail pressure gauge, I confirmed the readings were low. 5k at idle, 7k at cruise, around 14.5k at WOT. This is with a DIY modded CP3 and a GDP lift pump at 25 psi.

 

Isn't 20k about minimum for you HPCR guys? Better yet, does the ECM defuel at all based on what the rail pressure is?

 

From the little bit that I know about HPCR's, a stock truck should see atleast 20k at WOT. Actually somewhere between 20k and 26k. 26k is max limit. Unless you cap the rail, then you can use a pressure box to get higher, not sure how high some are pushing it. The important thing is to maintain the high pressure under a load, or max throttle. This is where a good lift pump system and a modded CP3 comes into play. The bigger the holes in your injectors, the more flow you need thru your CP3 to keep from draining the rail pressure.

I don't believe the ECM will defuel based on rail pressure...

 

Tried connecting the VSS to a different location in the ford wiring (recognized my mistake the first time). Previously I was on the sensor signal feeding the ABS module. I should have been on the VSS output from the ABS module.

Idle is still around 5k, cruising is now up between 10k and 12k depending on speed, etc. Max pressure I saw was around 18k at WOT.

So definately made a change, but not as much as I would have expected. Power seems to be up some as well (which would be expected).

I noticed the fuel pressure which used to never drop below 22 psi (lift pump) under load is now getting down to about 18-19 psi. I probably need to up my pressure some from the GDP pump...

 

18-19 psi should be fine if it gets lower than that I would think about bumping it up some buts not critical

 

5.9 Excursion what are the specifics of your vss sensors hook up?Any pictures or prints?We tried to test run my engine this weekend but wasn't successful,either I fried the ECM due to mis reading the prints and comparing to an 05 truck in the shop and applying 12 volts to pins 9 & 11 of the C 130 connector which should have been pin15 and 13,(I think)After correcting that the engine would hit one time, then one hit on the next attempt.We think the SKIMM has got us but not 100% sure yet.So a call to Bob and a few more dollars and soon to be the proud owner of a Smarty SR. To much overtime available to pass up right now to work on it,I have to get the money in order to finance my habit,sure hope the ECM survived my STUPIDITY but I'm starting to be able to read the Chrysler prints,and may be looking for another 05 ecm or a repair shop.I sure thought that between my buddy that works at the Dodge dealer on diesels every day and the best diesel mechanic that I know and my ole dumb self we would have had it running in an hour and back home or so I thought six hours later depressed covered in diesel fuel and broke home I go to read and study some more.

 

Will someone please send me Bob Wagner's phone number?
Thanks-

Progress report- I tried to test fit the engine over the weekend and found I'm going to have to lift the body up a couple inches to squeeze it in. Can't remember how to get the rear seats out to reach the bolts though. Two seat track bolts are under the track rails.

I still need the front accessories, not sure exactly what to buy, but that can wait until the engine is in the truck.

I installed 90 hp DDP tips on the injectors, installed a stock turbo for now to get it running- maybe I'll use it for compounding.

Scott is waiting on the input shaft for my transfer case- ECD march 3.

 

Bob's # is 1-888-225-7637

www.smartypower.com

For my 2000 Excursion's wiring, the rear diff speed sensor has two wires that connect to the ABS module. It interperets the signal and outputs a VSS signal to many locations on the truck (speedometer, PCM, cruise control, etc). I think it was Grey/Black. The signal is available at the cruise control servo under the hood or output from the Ford PCM at the firewall.

 

Is the signal that you're using to feed the ECM now similar to what the ECM expects? Is it possible now that it does see a signal, its not giving it what it wants to see. I'm assuming it just measures voltage across that wire and the voltage corresponds to a certain speed value?

 

I guess I dont know what truck you have but you dont have to take any seats out to lift a cab on a OBS Ford F series Crew Cab, Two bolts are just under the carpet right below the rear window and 2 are under the front carpet around where your feet would rest and then 2 more up front on either side of the radiator.

 

5.9Excursion, Thanks for that number!
BigBully, like 5.9Excursion, I also have a 2000 Excursion. On another site yesterday, it was suggest that I just yank the valve cover off and the rear rocker arms if necessary. I'm going to try that one of these days instead of pulling the body up.
Thanks-
clam

 

Mine was tight getting the engine in with the turbo on, I did reclock the turbo outlet down lower then it was originally so it wouldn't be as close to the heater box, this helped me get the engine in easier. This was partly due to my Autoworld quad mounts require the ECM to be relocated and was causing me problems. Moving the turbo allowed me to rotate the engine alittle more and slide the oil pan over the crossmember easier.

The VSS signal is a voltage pulse that increases in frequency as the vehicle speed increases. I don't know if the frequency of this pulse according to speed is the same from a Ford to a Dodge or not (I assume it is not). Scott at Destroked said that if it has a signal at all, the ECM is happy.

 

Trying to fix an annoying squeeking sound while the engine is running. One of the pulleys..

Installed a Gates replacement belt tensioner ($50) didn't fix it. Removed the idler pulley and popped off the bearing seal. Cleaned it out, regreased it, thought the old grease looked dried up. Didn't fix anything. It may still be this pulley, sure sounds like it. Or the power steering pump...

I'm getting a new bearing for the idler pulley next... NTN 6203LUA for those that need one...

 

Clam,

you don't need to lift the body. I assume you have the front end off. You need to lift the engine in the middle so you can tilt it back and forward. Get the bottom of the oil pan positioned over the crossmember, then tilt the engine FORWARD. You will get the oil pan to clear the crossmember and then lower the engine until the rear of the valve cover clears the cowl.

 

5.9 last year i replaced the A/C pump, water pump, belt tensionerpulley on my brothers 97 now it has noise. alt only thing left.