Aggie007

I was always curious if the diesel starter was 12V or 24V, sounds like 12V.

For the vacuum since you got rid of the vacuum booster for a hydroboost, did you get a PSD vacuum motor, the one on the passenger inner fender, I think it runs 18lbs of vacuum then cuts off. I believe you will need it for the a/c and if you have auto locking hubs. If so how did you wire that in.

Did you leave your engine harness from the V10 plugged in or just make a new harness for the sensors you need to run to the PCM for the gauges?

I was told you can't get the Ford service engine light to go off unless you cut the wire?

Also, what wires (from the Cummins ECM) did you run to the Data Port (obdII port under the dash), and which wires did you splice into (data port wires), I was told you only need two wires.

BTW, you have done an excellent job. Here is a link for pics of my build that I have completed so far. I plan on dropping in the engine this weekend, this is the reason for all the questions.
http://www.truckblog.com/gallery/gal...umpTo=0%7C1161

5.9Excursion

I used the PSD vacuum motor, just wire it up to have 12V any time the key is in RUN. (don't know the setpoint, but it runs to a point then shuts itself off).

I disconnecting both big connectors that went to the V10 and them spliced into the wires I needed for running the gauges.

The Ford SES light is driven by the PCM on the truck. The PCM talks to all the equipment on the truck using the PCI bus (I think) to determine if everything is ok. If it isn't, the PCM will turn on the light. At this point I really don't care what the Ford PCM thinks is going on, so yes that connection will get cut. However, I'm researching how I can get my cummins ECM to turn on the light if a code is present. More to come.

Just look at the appropriate year service manual to determine which wires you need for the dataport (look at the connector pinout section). I installed a second port for the cummins ECM. I needed two ground wires, a fused 12V wire, two communication wires (circuits D20 & D21 I think), and the PCI bus (which I don't think is necessary).

Stargate2112

TexasCTD - Thanks for the links, I've now got them bookmarked for near future reference...

Rob

Aggie007

The ECM has CCD Bus (+) D1 VT/BR, CCD Bus (-) D2 WT/BK, SCI Receive D21 PK, and SCI Transmit D20 LG.

Data Link Connector Engine Diesel which is a 3 pin connector:
A) D1 VT/BR CCD Bus (+)
B) D2 WT/BK CCD Bus (-)
C) Z11 BK/WT Ground

Then you have the Data Link Connector which is a 16 pin connector which shows the D20 and D21.

"The CCD bus + and - circuits are for communication between all of the OBD2 devices in the vehicle including PCM, TCM, airbag module, and sentry immobilizer key. All of these devices have a SCI transmit wire going to the Data Link connector though the PCM also has a SCI receive wire. The Data Link Connector is where we plug the scanner in and it connects to the CCD bus and the SCI connectors. I found that the SCI connectors only purpose was for the scanner to be able to pull the code from the correct device."

It seems since the ECM stores the codes you have to connect to the SCI wires and take those to the Data Link Connector in order to pull the codes? Basically the CCD talks to the ECM which talks to the Data Link Connector (scanner when hooked up)....correct me if I am wrong.

Since you are running the ATS trans control, I wonder if you can wire to the TCM ports on the Data Link Connector and read tranny codes. I am running the PCS, I will have to call and ask, definitely put icing on the cake.

5.9Excursion

The SCI transmit and receive get wired to the dataport inside the cab (16 pin), that is what talks with my Smarty or a DRB scanner (I've done both to verify it works).

PCS controller / ATS controller = same thing.

PCS makes the controller, ATS just markets it for a 47RE or 48RE because you have to use the ATS manual valvebody in order for it to work.

duratothemax

IIRC the EPA J1972 OBD standards dictate that the MIL-request wire has to be on a dedicated circuit when its wired into the instrument cluster...ie, it cant send the message to the cluster to turn the MIL on over the data bus.

maybe try to find the pinout for the excursion cluster, and then just find the pin on the cummins ECM...usually the ECM's just ground the wire internally when they want to turn the MIL on. Either that or its the other way around (ECM provides 12v on the MIL request wire). If I had to guess tho, I think the ECM grounds a wire due to the limitations of the drivers/transistors in the ECM........thats just my best guess

Keep up the good work...looking forward to seeing pics and videos of it all done.

ben

Mo Smoke

Mine was on Pin#2 of the Ford PCM

5.9Excursion

The light is controlled by a single wire from the Ford PCM, I assume it just grounds the wire to turn it on (it's been a few days since I looked at the wiring). Based on what I have seen the cummins ECM doesn't control the MIL light on a dodge truck, it "talks" to the dodge PCM and the dodge PCM controls the light. It's like I need a device to "talk" to the cummins ECM and then when a code is present it should ground the necessary wire.

The excursion is going to sit for a few days as it still only has one battery and it's going to be very cold for a while yet. We got over 1" of ice in the last two days. Most if not all of our trees are now limbless

The wife told me I should go buy myself a chainsaw for christmas, so I've been cutting branches up all day with my new Stihl MS 390 chainsaw

farmer0_1

just came accross this thread tonight all i can say is wow . i know it was said before but wow. i have built cars from no frames on up but the sensors and wiring on this newer stuff just makes twice the work. glad you can get thru it all. i am tired just reading all this work and outside in winter to boot. must be a young guy . i feel for you guys and the ice storm we get that here in oregon every couple years. stay away from those power lines. and buy the wife something nice for all the extra work that came her way during all this. you don't just park five kids for a couple hours a nite. good luck

Aggie007

I saw where you spliced in for the a/c lines, which I doubt have got much use since its freezing over there (just remember its 80* outside here), but did you use the Cummins wiring or the Ford wiring to the a/c compressor?

5.9Excursion

I haven't actually done the splicing yet. It's somewhat complicated how the AC lines will get done. My local shop that can crimp the connections uses fittings that crimp to a hose on one end and use a compression fitting on the other... So it isn't like a factory hose, I would think the compression fitting may leak?

So I spoke with a shop that can weld aluminum. He can butt weld the lines together for me (but will take some work since the weld will be close to the hose and aluminum dissapates heat very very well).

I trial fitted the dodge line in and since I clocked my turbo housing to better fit the engine compartment, the intercooler line hits the AC line. So I officially decided to wait until spring to work on that portion. It's so stinkin' cold...

Regarding the wiring, you would use the ford wiring and splice the dodge plug onto it in place of the ford plug. You have to get the wires correct or you will toast the diode (I was told anyways). I haven't looked into it yet. The pressure switch unscrewed from the ford line and screwed right into the dodge line.

5.9Excursion

If you've ever been around our kids, you know you can't park them for 5 minutes...

Yeah, I owe the wife big time for all of this...

Aggie007

Without the a/c lines hooked up or the compressor wired, is the clutch engaged, I was curious if you can drive around without the a/c plumbed or wired but still on the drive belt?

5.9Excursion

The clutch is not engaged so you can drive it that way. You just need to plug the holes in the compressor (I actually made a cover and bolted it onto the compressor to keep stuff out).

Aggie007

Your quick on the answers.....thanks....actually the compressor I bought came with a cover for the holes.