What do you mean thanks to ebay for the vin?

I got a rebuilt CR engine for a 00 that I have and ive had the same code. Just wondering what your fix was. I just live with it myself. hasnt bothered me But if its an easy fix why ont

 

How about tranny codes? Since I put in the stand-alone contoller in my Excursion I've had three different codes. Just wondering if you know of a way to clear those.

Nice job! Looking real good so far.

 

My ECM never had a VIN # programmed into it from the factory, so I just needed to find a VIN from another truck (same year, same hp rating, same tranny setup). In less than one minute I found one on ebay (VIN numbers are typically listed in the ad). A trip to my dealer and with a DRB scanner they programmed the VIN # in for me. I also heard from Bob Wagner that many 2003 dodges left the factory somehow missing the last 4 digits of the VIN in the ECM. Same fix for those, except they already have the complete VIN assigned to the truck.

Jake, what specific codes are you seeing that are tranny related? I haven't had one since I started that was tranny related...

Just today I got 3 digital inputs (trans controller) and the crankshaft position signal ran into the cab. Need to get some switches installed so I can swap transmission calibration files on the fly. Probably going to use the dakota digital box to get the tach going. Talked to PCS about the controller and they didn't think they could run the tach even if I did get the crank signal into the controller.

It's about 10 degrees out, freezing rain, should hit 0 tonight. I'll see how well it can start with one battery tomorrow...

 

Fuel heater has an internal thermal switch.

 

Thanks wannadiesel, I didn't know that.

 

I don't remember the codes right now but I know that they are directly related to the fact that there is no tranny input to the ecm since I plugged the ATS controller. The codes are not causing any problems as far as I can tell. It's just that they are always there and if I could find a way to remove them I would.

 

I hooked up the Digital Dakota box but don't have it working right yet. When I start the engine the tach shows about 500 rpm and will go up, but not much over 1200rpm. Then after about 10 seconds it the needle on the tach goes 0 and stays there until I restart again. I think I hooked it up according to their instructions I even tried several other possibilities. I will call them tomorrow and see if I can get to the bottom of it.

 

I spoke with dakota digital last week and they said I should get the diesel specific one. It was about $65. I told them the crank pulses 60 times per revolution and the gas tach is expecting 5 pulses per revolution (V10 engine), they said it should work... I'll find out this week.

I spent some time today (inside) getting some more wiring done. Here's a pic showing my relay wiring for the fuel heater, 3 switches for inputs to the tranny (ignore the switch that says rear locker), and my other wiring loom that does the following...

2 LEDs for when the intake heaters are on, a resistance value to simulate a normal fuel level (to clear some codes), and a termination circuit for the PCI bus (to hopefully also clear a code).

 

Hammily - If you don't mind me asking, Where did you get this Cummins Badge at?

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...1&d=1196524570

I've been looking all over the internet, and I can't find it anywhere. Think it would look very nice for my project coming up...

Rob

 

http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo....BP-55078116-AA

http://www.genosgarage.com/products.asp?dept=60

..

 

I think the POWER WAGON would look good on the back of the excursion, what do you think?

http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo....BP-55077758-AA

 

No I think to many logos especially big one look tacky.

 

I am in the process of dropping in a '03 CTD in my '99 Ford F250. You only need a VIN # if you are going to run software like a smarty right? From my understanding you don't need a VIN # to start it.

Also, when you run dual batteries, you just have one as a back up, still wired 12V or do you wire them up to be 24V?

You have definitely lost me in the electronics discussion. Scott at Destroked has a external tach-kit that bolts to the crank and has an autometer sensor that you can wire to the factory tach signal wire to the PCM to get the factory tach to work.

 

My engine started and ran fine on the test stand with no VIN in the ECM.

When running two batteries, they are hooked up in paralle (positive to positive) and (neg to neg). You only have 12V this way but twice the cranking amperage for starting.

A couple different places sell entire tach kits that use their own sensor and you have to mount it near the crank. I just thought since the engine already has it's own sensor, why not use it? Hopefully, the box I got from dakota digital will do the trick (and it's only $65)...

We are expecting 1/2" of ice tonight so it may be a while before I can get into the Excursion to see if my latest wiring will resolve my codes...

 

If you don't mind badges I think thats real cleaver. Maybe eliminate all the excursion stuff and replace em with the Power Wagon.